Wheel Bearing Torque

-
Hueyjockey

Hueyjockey

Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Messages
81
Reaction score
32
Location
Fallbrook, CA
I was wondering if anyone knows the correct wheel bearing torque for the
front disc hubs I just installed. I found a complete H-K front discs setup
off a '70 Dart Swinger and installed them on my '65 Dart GT. It was an easy
swap and allowed me to keep the SBP. My question is, what is the correct
torque setting for the wheel bearing nut? For drums, the manual says torque
to 70 in-lbs while rotating the wheel. I tried that, but the wheel seems to
drag too much. The instructions for after-market kits say to tighten the
nut until resistance is felt, than back it off until the wheel spins freely.
Any insight into the proper torque or technique for tightening the wheel
bearing nut would be greatly appreciated!
 
Your 2nd method is what I normally do. "Feel" is good enough.

If you go to 70 lb/in, you are to then back it off until the castle nut lines up to where you can put the cotter pin in.

The factory spec calls for .003" end play, for what that's worth.
 
Last edited:
Been doing this over 45 years. I adjust the spindle nut as I spin the rotor to make sure the grease in the bearings doesn't give me a false feel. I adjust for zero play. This has worked well for me.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Been doing this over 45 years. I adjust the spindle nut as I spin the rotor to make sure the grease in the bearings doesn't give me a false feel. I adjust for zero play. This has worked well for me.
Click to expand...

I do the same but I go for a little preload and then put the pin in.
 
I agree with SGBarracuda. I tighten while spinning and rocking the drum/rotor until the rocking just dissappears. I believe the final torque should be around 12in #'s. You can imagine a 1# force on the end of a 12" long pair of Channellocks, so not very much.
 
rustycowll69 said:
I agree with SGBarracuda. I tighten while spinning and rocking the drum/rotor until the rocking just dissappears. I believe the final torque should be around 12in #'s. You can imagine a 1# force on the end of a 12" long pair of Channellocks, so not very much.
Click to expand...
This reasonably smart friend of mine MISread the torque spec and tightened his to 120 FOOT lbs. He burned up the bearings and blamed it on cheap Chinese parts. He bitched and complained to the parts supplier and got another set....Then he did the same thing again. I asked him after hearing about the second set that went bad...."Hey, what the heck are you torquing these to???"
"I did what the book said....120ft/lbs!"
Uhhh....I think I found the problem" I said as i had a FSM open...."120 INCH pounds, man !"
 
Hueyjockey said:
Thanks for the response. Where do you measure the end play? Between the thrust washer and outer bearing?
Click to expand...
It's between the spindle and the hub. In other words attach the fixed end (mag base, clamp) of the dial indicator to the hub. Put the indicator needle on the end of the spindle. You should only be able to move the hub in/out a total of .003"

But seriously, nobody is going to go to all that trouble.
 
if the bearings are in good shape finger tight is enough . think about it it's a tapered bearing .
 
jimjimjimmy said:
if the bearings are in good shape finger tight is enough . think about it it's a tapered bearing .
Click to expand...
Aaron, that is not quite enough, if you would get your front end lined up with loose bearings like that, they would tight them a little if they know what they are doing before proceeding further.
 
While spinning drum/rotor in forward direction tighten spindle nut to approx. 5 ft/lbs. This seats the bearings. Back off nut one flat then tighten finger tight. Bearings should have zero preload to allow for expansion.
 
Jimacuda said:
While spinning drum/rotor in forward direction tighten spindle nut to approx. 5 ft/lbs. This seats the bearings. Back off nut one flat then tighten finger tight. Bearings should have zero preload to allow for expansion.
Click to expand...
But you can't really accurately measure 5 ft-lbs. That why the FSM says to go to 70 in-lbs (same thing almost, but much more accurately measured).
 
leblanc said:
Aaron, that is not quite enough, if you would get your front end lined up with loose bearings like that, they would tight them a little if they know what they are doing before proceeding further.
Click to expand...



if you can't tighten a wheel bearing to 0 end play with your fingers you have other problems like dirt or bunged threads .
I also have big fingers .Jimscuda got it right .
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I agree, after zero play I'll snug it just a little.
Click to expand...

Basically the same as some of you guys.
Spin it while getting it tight as I can with my fingers, then back it off to the first cotter pin hole.
Been doing it this way for 40 years or more, so some day I'll finally get it back together. :D
 
Timken / taper roller bearings most any application, preload 7 ft lbs new and 5 ft lbs used. Pinion bearing setup is the automotive example most like so many other applications.
the automotive front hub bearings are about the same until the difference in related hardware comes into play. The nut cage and cotter pin hole dictates where within that range we will settle.
30 weight prelube, 90 weight prelube, packed full of bearing grease... Doesn't make as much difference as one might imagine.
 
69_340_GTS said:
But you can't really accurately measure 5 ft-lbs. That why the FSM says to go to 70 in-lbs (same thing almost, but much more accurately measured).
Click to expand...

Hang a 5 lb weight on the end of a 12" wrench...done:lol:

Seriously, if you cant estimate 5 ft lbs working a wrench with your hand perhaps you shouldnt have it in your hand in the first place. Not like its super critical and you have to be within an inch/lb, your going to back it off anyways so its horseshoes and handgrenades....close is good enough.
The key is to be spinning the hub in the forward direction of travel WHILE tightening it to seat the bearings. Backing it off 1 flat then tightening finger tight sets it to allow some heat expansion without loading the bearings. Been doing it this way for well over 40 years and never had a bearing failure.
Dont get lost in the minutiae, it'll ruin your day :poke:
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the advice, I think I know what I need to do. I torqued it to 70 in-lbs, which is about 5 ft-lbs (5.83 to be exact) which seated the bearing. I need to back the nut off to release the drag, than retighten to somewhere between finger tight and a slight bit of pre-load. Easy day, thnx!
 
Jimacuda said:
Hang a 5 lb weight on the end of a 12" wrench...done:lol:

Seriously, if you cant estimate 5 ft lbs working a wrench with your hand perhaps you shouldnt have it in your hand in the first place. Not like its super critical and you have to be within an inch/lb, your going to back it off anyways so its horseshoes and handgrenades....close is good enough.
The key is to be spinning the hub in the forward direction of travel WHILE tightening it to seat the bearings. Backing it off 1 flat then tightening finger tight sets it to allow some heat expansion without loading the bearings. Been doing it this way for well over 40 years and never had a bearing failure.
Dont get lost in the minutiae, it'll ruin your day :poke:
Click to expand...

I was just explaining why the FSM was written the way it was.

Besides, the chances of someone having a 12" wrench that fits that nut and a 5 pound weight right at their finger tips are pretty slim. I know exactly where my in-lb torque wrench is plus a socket and adapter to attach to it. So why not use it?
 
Hueyjockey said:
Thanks for all the advice, I think I know what I need to do. I torqued it to 70 in-lbs, which is about 5 ft-lbs (5.83 to be exact) which seated the bearing. I need to back the nut off to release the drag, than retighten to somewhere between finger tight and a slight bit of pre-load. Easy day, thnx!
Click to expand...
Just back it off until you can get the cotter pin in. That's it, done deal.
 
69_340_GTS said:
I was just explaining why the FSM was written the way it was.

Besides, the chances of someone having a 12" wrench that fits that nut and a 5 pound weight right at their finger tips are pretty slim. I know exactly where my in-lb torque wrench is plus a socket and adapter to attach to it. So why not use it?
Click to expand...

Maybe a 10 lb weight on a 6" wrench...or a 2.5 lb weight on a 24" wrench...
It was humor. You took it wayyyyyyy too literally.
I know where all my t-wrenches are but dont use them for this. Ever.
If you feel the need to then by all means go for it.
I dont because I have finely calibrated fingers. (again, humor...but based in truth)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top