Wheel Bearings coming loose

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LocuMob

LocuMob

Fluid Technician
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I installed a new front suspension in my 66 Polara and when I took it out for a road test, it had a vibration. I had new tires (for the car, but nos bias ply) and had it aligned. It was fine at first then the vibe started. Checked the tires and they checked out ok. I had previously checked the bearings and they were tight. Afte checking the tires I checked the bearings and got more than a full turn more when tightening them. I took it out for another test, and the vibe was there again after 5-6 K miles. I didn't look/check, but I know they are loose. What would cause this problem? I've replaced bearings before without incident so I'm kind of confused. Thanks in advance.

Scott
 
What process did you use to tighten them? If you didn't preload them, install the castle nut and cotter pin it they will loosen.
 
maybe its time to pull and inspect the bearings ? a failure or the cotter pin being left out are the only reasons I can see them cominig loose.
 
Bearings are "easy." But you DO have to use your head

1.....Probably rare, but occasionally, bearing cups wear a pocket where they sit in the hub, and get loose

2.....Make absolutely CERTAIN you have the right bearing cups and cones. I once worked on a Dodge pu, someone had swapped a light duty spindle on one side, and used the larger bearings. Yeh.....you could tighten it up, sorta..........

3.....Inspect the bearings for damage, heat, etc. Since you are having a problem, be ready to completely tear down and clean the hub, inspect the bearings and cups for everything you can think of. Try the bearing cones ON the spindle individually for fit. Actually CHECK the part numbers. Any good quality bearing should be numbered.

4.....This DOES?? have the proper hardware? That is, a KEYED outer washer, and either a castellated nut, or the proper nut with the typical Mopar castellated cap on top?
 
Did you install the keyed flat washer between the out bearing and nut, and is the tab still present on the washer to prevent it from spinning?
 
Outer races not fully seated
spindle worn on bottom- outer bearing's inner race (use center punch to kneel enough to snug up inner race on spindle)
Tighten nut and back-off till the washer just moves with screw driver
 
Bad Sport said:
What process did you use to tighten them? If you didn't preload them, install the castle nut and cotter pin it they will loosen.
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Not sure about the preload part. How do you do that? Packed bearings with grease. Used FSM procedure as stated. New bearings and races. Used the slotted washer. Races properly seated. Castle nut and cotter pin in place.
 
My wheel bearing was humming took it apart yesterday.wheel bearing fell apart...
 
LocuMob said:
Not sure about the preload part. How do you do that? Packed bearings with grease. Used FSM procedure as stated. New bearings and races. Used the slotted washer. Races properly seated. Castle nut and cotter pin in place.
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If you followed the FSM to the letter, they should be "set." There's only so much in there that can go wrong. what you have described (taking up 1 more turn) is extremely troubling
 
67Dart273 said:
If you followed the FSM to the letter, they should be "set." There's only so much in there that can go wrong. what you have described (taking up 1 more turn) is extremely troubling
Click to expand...

That6's what makes me think they weren't seated.
 
Redid the bearings one side at a time with the same nut and washer on each side. Not stripped, but new nuts should be cheap enough to get and confirm or cancel it out. I'm going to take the hubs and check that the races are fully seated to the shoulder of the pockets they fit in. The bearings were brand new quality parts, not cheap ones. This sucks.
 
LocuMob said:
This sucks.
Click to expand...

Well keep your head on square. As I said before, these are simple. There's only so much in there. But you do have to use your head. The guys on here have pointed out just about any possible trouble.

One last thing. Seal interference. Maybe something wrong there, holding the entire assembly out away from allowing the rear bearing cone from seating properly on the spindle shoulder.

You should be turning the hub by hand, tightening the nut "with some force." Just a pull on the wrench with one hand. The hub will get harder to turn but should never get difficult. Then loosen the nut and reset for proper running tension.

As I "headed towards" earlier, given that you are having this type of problem, and this is a SERIOUS problem, I would be tearing the hub completely apart, cleaning it down to "bare solvent" and giving it a CLOSE inspection, and along with what was posted earlier,...........

take the cones and TRY fit them on the spindle. Do they fit on their relative positions? Does the rear cone seat on the spindle? Etc?
 
65cuda360 said:
Bad threads in spindle nut?
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Thanks for pointing that out. Didn't seem bad, but they were cheap to replace and I learned that you are supposed to replace them every time you remove them. Now time for a test drive.

Scott
 
Spindle nuts seemed to have fixed the problem! I took it for the same drive as before and checked the nuts when I got back and they were tight. Thanks for the help everyone!
 
You don't need to replace spindle nuts "every time." "Back in the day" I'd bet the nuts off my cars let's say 5 cars I've owned have been on and off those a total of at least 20 times between the 5 cars. In this day and age of "Chineseo," anything can happen.

Sounds like you have 'er so good luck
 
Thought I had it kicked, but it came back. I'm going to crank 'em down super tight, back 'em off and test. If that don't work I'll triple check the hub. If nothing seems wrong, I'll order a set of Timken bearings for it. The end is in sight?

Scott
 
If your pulling it apart, I would make sure there are no areas on spindles that have been nicked or gouged. This could cause areas of high metal that won't allow the cone to slide over like it should. As 273 stated earlier slide the cone (bearing) onto the spindle without the hub on, this will tell you if they are free to move like they should. Also I'd check the races to be sure they are fully seated in the hub, if they're not they could be "walking" with the load on the bearing. As already mentioned make sure the outer races are not turning in the hub, I had this on a Charger and it would cause a vibration.
 
I never replace bearings without new races as well...I'm havin a hard time imagining them getting loose with a cotter pin in place unless they're not tightened enough in the first place... I'll be interested to know the outcome of this one..
 
LocuMob said:
Thought I had it kicked, but it came back. I'm going to crank 'em down super tight, back 'em off and test. If that don't work I'll triple check the hub. If nothing seems wrong, I'll order a set of Timken bearings for it. The end is in sight?

Scott
Click to expand...

You have GOT to start using your head, here. There is not that much "in there."

Have you ACTUALLY pulled these apart and inspected them? Checked the part numbers? This is not something you want to screw around with.

How tight are you snugging them? Follow the factory manual exactly

"Crank em down super tight"

I don't know what this means.........20 ft lbs? 80? 100?
Excellent way to damage the bearings right out of the chute!!!! Excellent way to strip the nut threads on the spindle.

I've never had or felt the need to use more than a pull with my fingers on say, a 10" crescent, to "seat" the bearings, then back them back off and adjust. I never use the force of my arm, so to speak.

There HAS to be something mechanically basic wrong "in there................"

Seal in the rear is interfering with fit on the spindle--wrong seal

Rear bearing cone does not seat on the spindle shoulder due to wrong size or spindle damage

cups are not seated in the hub, or are wrong bearings CHECK THE NUMBERS

Cones and cups are not matched CHECK THE PART NUMBERS

Thread problems on spindle and or nut, wrong nut, stripped, etc.


Take EVERYTHING apart. CLEAN it. TEST FIT the cones in the cups. CHECK the fit of the rear cone onto the shoulder of the spindle. TEST FIT the seal and look it over carefully. Depth? width? Is the seal too wide?

LOOK at the brake parts. Is something hitting / rubbing?
 
As I've said before, the parts were correct matched set of bearings and races, races seated, followed FSM to the letter, proper seal. Others on the C body site said to preload the bearings (never needed to before) by tightening the nut til the wheel is hard to turn by hand and back off then tightening to spec. I held off on that route since it sounds suspect to me.

I did take the hub apart completely and replaced the races and bearings and seal. Cleaned out the old grease and put in some new red stuff. Got new spindle nuts and that didn't do anything. The spindles don't have any damage to them.

I am using my head, and scratching it at the same time. I know there isn't a lot to it, but replacing should have solved the problem. I'll just tear it apart again and inspect/rebuild. Out to the garage I go.

Scott
 
LocuMob said:
Others on the C body site said to preload the bearings (never needed to before) by tightening the nut til the wheel is hard to turn by hand and back off then tightening to spec. I held off on that route since it sounds suspect to me.
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That is "close" to the factory procedure. The 66 book says tighten to 90 in lbs (about 10 ft lbs) while turning the tire / hub, then back off and re-adjust. I always as I said snug it up using my fingers on the wrench. You don't need nor want to really really horse on the thing
 
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