wheel cyl. fitting

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aaadave

aaadave

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well, every time i get close to getting every thing together for my 10'' drum conversion, some other problem crops up. now its the brake line. the line was broke off even with the line nut on the wheel cyl. all the new lines i find has an inverted flare on each end, and the wheel cyl. has a different mating surface. in looking online, the closest thing i can find to discribe it is what they call a bubble flare. has anyone had any experience with these cyl? i dont know about where you all are at, but down here in the south its nearly impossible to find anybody that knows jack about anything older than 10 years old. please tell me something so i can get my car back on the road. thanks, dave. oh ya, this is on a 72 dart.
 
just change out the wheel cylinder. rock auto has them cheap. then the lines available will work. Or check out fine lines. they will have what you need.they are on the net.
 
there are 2 kinds of fittings for breaks, SAI and ISO. do you have a pic of what it looks like? I know for $60 you can get a tool that will allow you to do both of them on any brake hose. not really hard just practice on the tubing
 
well, i have 2 brand new wagners in the box that has the same fitting. the inverted flare nut fits the cyl. and will tighten down good, but dont know if it will seal. tried napa, the page just says no products shown, like they dont sell brake lines, right. :roll: anyways, i thought they might make a flaring tool for it, just was'nt sure. thought about going to midas brakes down here, but these morons probably never even heard of a dart. thanks.
 
not quite sure of your question with the description provided---- but if this is this the front brakes, you cannot get the brake hard line to match up to front brake wheel cylinder?
you had another post that stated you had a parts car with 10" front brakes-- did it not have all the parts needed?
your car should have a junction block with hard lines coming out somewhere on the driver's side.
then there should be another point that these hard lines stop-- a special rubber line is connected between the hard line & the wheel cylinder.

The 9" version will not work on the 10" version.

If all you need is the hard line--autozone has straight pieces-- bend it your self-- costs $5.00.

If you need the rubber pieces -- az used to carry those also, make sure you are not swapping 73- up parts on a 72 down car-- the set-up is slightly different.

Pictures would help, Lawrence
 
hi vdart, i'll try to explain better. i have a 72 dart with 9'' front brakes. i have a 72 dart parts car with 10'' front brakes that i want to put to put on mine. when i took one side off the parts car, i noticed the hard brake line broke off even with the nut on the wheel cyl. thats why i dont have the parts i need from the donor car. the wheel cyl. has a long 3/8 fitting and the other end has a short one. i got the broke one out, but the end is not an inverted flare. the end that connects to the hose is, but not the cyl. end. if you look down in the fitting bore, it looks like it needs an outverted flare, even though i know theres no such thing as an outverted flare. just trying to describe it better. all i can find is lines with inverted flares. i bought an 8'' line with a long nut on one end and it will screw in alright and will tighten down good. but i dont know if the two different mating surfaces will seal. i would try to get some pitures on here, but i cant figure how to do it on this laptop. i bought some new wagner cyl. and there the same way. the broke line looks almost like a slight ball end instead of an inverted flare. hopes this explains it better. dave.
 
1st> to post pics----when entering info-- look below the reply box it says manage attachments-- click the box-- then upload your pictures from the computer.
Replacement parts might not have the exact same look as original-- if it tightens down it should seal-- you will know right away when you bleed them.

On the 69 & 62 I used 10" brakes on-- the rubber line attaches to the back of the cylinder --then meets the hard line at a bracket welded to the frame.
You'll get it done, Lawrence
 
Does the fitting come out at a 90 degree angle or is it more like a 45?
Are you having this problem in the front or the rear?
 
well, i tried to get some pictures up,but every thing i tried to do just said invalid file so i just give up. i'm going to hook it up and see if it will seal. if not, i'll figure something out. thanks for all the help fella's. if it works out alright i'll post back. later, dave. i just reread your last post lawrence, you said the rubber line hooks up to the wheel cyl. on mine, the rubber line mounts to a bracket bolted to the spindle, and then theres about an 8'' piece of steel line that connects the rubber line to the cyl. is this the same as yours?
 
well, i hooked up the brake line with the inverted flare end and it does'nt leak so i quess i lucked out.:cheers: i played around with a double flaring tool and i duplicated the odd flare i had. it takes two steps to flare the line, but if you stop at the first step, it's exactly like the one that was on it. as long as it dont leak i'll leave it alone. i always thought the front brakes was on the front master cyl. resevior but mine is on the rear. it's marked that way so it must be right. dave. edit. by the way ragtop, did you get the pics i sent you?
 
Sorry for the delay, I found the pics in my"junkbox" hope this helps.
 

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thanks for posting the pics for me ragtop, i've got a theory on this. i'm not sure, but i think the b bodies used a rubber brake line to the wheel cyl. if this was the same cyl. used on b bodies, it may explain the odd flare. what ever the reason, it was meant to be that way because the other side was the same way. oh well, got both fronts changed out and all is working good. now on to the back. i just wish i had a good 81/4 rear to put in in place of this 71/4. thanks again, dave.
 
aaadave said:
well, every time i get close to getting every thing together for my 10'' drum conversion, some other problem crops up. now its the brake line. the line was broke off even with the line nut on the wheel cyl. all the new lines i find has an inverted flare on each end, and the wheel cyl. has a different mating surface. in looking online, the closest thing i can find to discribe it is what they call a bubble flare. has anyone had any experience with these cyl? i dont know about where you all are at, but down here in the south its nearly impossible to find anybody that knows jack about anything older than 10 years old. please tell me something so i can get my car back on the road. thanks, dave. oh ya, this is on a 72 dart.
Click to expand...

Dave,

I know I'm a little late to the party, but I know exactly what you mean. I'm currently running into the exact same problem, so I did a search and just now came across this thread...

Just to give you a little background, I've got a '72 340 4 speed duster with a manual 4 drum set up. 10" brakes. I recently lost my brakes and decided to change out my original leaking MC and front wheel cylinders. Got a new MC and two new front wheel cylinders. In the process of changing out the wheel cylinders I snapped off the hard line due to the nut seizing to the line. When I backed off the nut and pulled out the broken line I noticed the inside of wheel cylinder was concave and the flared end of the line resembled a bubble flare, not a double flare. I was under the impression my wheel cylinders were original & all flared ends were double flared. Now the other end of that same line, which connects to the rubber flex line, is double flared. My question is, Did Mopar originally use a bubble flare or something similar for the front wheel cylinders? Anyone else run across this? Some pics below...

0912172314.jpg


Notice the crack in the flare...

0912172315.jpg
0912172316.jpg
0912172315.jpg
 
That wheel cylinder is off "something else" much newer. Ma never used bubble flare "back then."
 
67Dart273 said:
That wheel cylinder is off "something else" much newer. Ma never used bubble flare "back then."
Click to expand...

That's what I thought. What's weird is I ordered a new replacement from rock auto and the cylinder bore is set up the same way. It's concave to accept a bubble flare.
 
As mentioned,has to do with a flex hose connection.
Did wheel cyls on f350 that hoses connected directly to wheel cylinders. I think the end was a bubble shape if i recall.
 
Here is another ebay listing of the line in question.

NOS MOPAR 1973 DART, VALIANT FRONT WHEEL CYLINDER BRAKE LINE NIB!! | eBay

Mine looks exactly like this. This particular line was manufactured in '76. This is even got what appears to be the same bends. You can see that the end with the long nut resembles a bubble flare. This is the side that would go into the wheel cylinder. Also notice that the nut's threads stop, similar to a ISO European nut. The other end of the line (which connects to the flex hose) is a standard SAE double flare with the threads spanning the entire length of the nut. I'm guessing not many guys have run across this because most throw this stuff away & convert over to disk set up.
 
hey old junk, i switched over to disks a couple years ago, but ya, thats the same thing i had. i ended up just doing the first stage of a double flare. seemed to work fine. dave.
 
aaadave said:
hey old junk, i switched over to disks a couple years ago, but ya, thats the same thing i had. i ended up just doing the first stage of a double flare. seemed to work fine. dave.
Click to expand...

Dave,

I figured this is what you had going on. I'm sure the new disk set up must be world of difference. I think you got very lucky that double flare worked. It probably would have leaked for me knowing my luck. I just went to the parts store and picked up a new 3/16" line with 2 European style 3/8-24 threaded nuts. Both ends are bubble flared. I just simply bought a long piece and cut it in half. Removed 1 of the European style nuts. Add a standard SAE double flare nut, flare the cut end to a double flare, bend to shape and problem solved! Basically just replicating the factory part. Beats buying an overpriced NOS part. Hopefully all goes well. Really want to get the car back on the road for the fall season. I know I'm in the minority here (or crazy), but I hope this helps anyone else that wants to keep their original 4 wheel drum set up.

Here is what I got. Part number is PAB-320

0913171418.jpg
0913171418a.jpg
 
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