Wheel Hop Clamping Leaf Springs

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340sFastback

340sFastback

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My ESPO replacement springs started wheel hopping after I swapped T56 Magnum 6 speed.

So I clamped the forward most two leaf springs which solved majority of it. On some surfaces no wheel hop, other surfaces a minor shutter barely noticable.

So decided to take some 1/4 inch plate and reinforce the top leaf spring further. That should prevent that top leaf from flexing. The plate has a slight bend to hug the curve of the leaf spring.

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I like how you did that. But now you also can benefit from UN clamping the rear segment, too. What kind of power are you runnin?
 
I know these cars didn't get built with this much power from factory.. and there are many other variables to consider, but a repair like this wouldn't be my 1st option.. That almost looks like a slant 6 or base 318 leaf pack. From the looks of it was flexing like a banjo string.
 
Big.J.007 said:
I know these cars didn't get built with this much power from factory.. and there are many other variables to consider, but a repair like this wouldn't be my 1st option.. That almost looks like a slant 6 or base 318 leaf pack. From the looks of it was flexing like a banjo string.
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Clamping the front segment and un clamping the rear segment are perfectly acceptable traction methods found right in the Mopar Suspension manual. It's in every single edition.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Clamping the front segment and un clamping the rear segment are perfectly acceptable traction methods found right in the Mopar Suspension manual. It's in every single edition.
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This is almost akin to a traction bar.. It is essentially doing the same work.. Hence why I asked about running a weak spring.
All this did was stiffen the spring up no differently than just using super stock springs.


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Try a stiffer rear shock. I had good luck with Rancho 3 now 9 way single adjustable shocks. Cal-Trac relabeled but not sure if there were any changes. Forgot the part # & car not here to check. My car wheel-hopped under certain conditions even with SS springs and with Mopar 4-speed rear drag shocks or Competition Engineering shocks until I went Rancho.
 
Big.J.007 said:
This is almost akin to a traction bar.. It is essentially doing the same work.. Hence why I asked about running a weak spring.
All this did was stiffen the spring up no differently than just using super stock springs.


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That's correct! The SS springs essentially double as traction bars. You can make other spring packs close by clamping the front and un clamping the rear. Nothing wrong with that.
 
340sFastback said:
My ESPO replacement springs started wheel hopping after I swapped T56 Magnum 6 speed.

So I clamped the forward most two leaf springs which solved majority of it. On some surfaces no wheel hop, other surfaces a minor shutter barely noticable.

So decided to take some 1/4 inch plate and reinforce the top leaf spring further. That should prevent that top leaf from flexing. The plate has a slight bend to hug the curve of the leaf spring.

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Oh and I would not torque your clamps any farther than the spring plates. That's 45 LBFT. If you over torque them, you will clamp the springs together too tightly and they cannot slip.
 
The leaf springs are reproduction 340 springs from ESPO. It wasn't hopping with the 727 auto trans but hopped when 6 speed got swapped in.

Like I said in original post just clamping the two leafs on forward end solved wheel hop for the most part. Just looking to beef it up a tad more.
 
Big.J.007 said:
I know these cars didn't get built with this much power from factory.. and there are many other variables to consider, but a repair like this wouldn't be my 1st option.. That almost looks like a slant 6 or base 318 leaf pack. From the looks of it was flexing like a banjo string.
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Its a factory 340 car and I do have the original leafs up in the attic. Whats on car now are replica 340 leafs from ESPO. I though when I swapped them on they match the originals. I replaced them due to wheel hop and it got rid of the hop until 6 speed was swapped in.
 
Back in the 80's I added an extra spring from and old set. I cut it so I used the front section and left only an 1" past the axle U bolts in the back to eliminate wheel hop. Kinda like a traction bar effect. Also clamp up front as well. I was young and had no $$$. Now I'm old with no $$$. lol
 
Nice fab. Not spring steel but will probably last a long time if it doesn't bend back and forth much. I like the curved traction leafs from hellwig because they are above the axle, cheap, and adjustable for rate increase and axle rotation. The pinion rotation must bend the leaf and short leafs are stiffer than long. Half the leaf is sticking up above the stack. Increasing preload at the front eye with the U-bolt clamps more of the leaf to the stack (more rate) and shortens the leaf length that must bend to allow axle housing rotation. The leaf is never loose on the stack even at full axle drop. Here is a pic of my kit for my '83 swb 5.0L ranger.

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Hurricane, flooding, tornados have moved out, roads now dry, took car out, can burn tires in first, bang second burn tires some more, no wheel hop. So it works....
 
340sFastback said:
Hurricane, flooding, tornados have moved out, roads now dry, took car out, can burn tires in first, bang second burn tires some more, no wheel hop. So it works....
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If you experience wheel ever again, unclamp the rear half of the springs.
 
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