Wheel spin issues

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Yes I see 2 problems. BF Goodrich tires (They Suck) and the front raised. Lower the front so you will have more travel to distribute the to the back when you leave the line.
I am running home made caltracs and stock leaf springs.
 
D-50394 said:
I am running Drag Radials and it drives great on the street rain or shine and hooks pretty good at the track.
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I would say that's hookin "pretty good" too.
 
1/4 inch plate with snubber will help.Why? Im doin it. keep it down.slicks..drag radials.
 
runs out good - no snubber or traction bar issues here though - Ford 9" with 4.10's and 4 link - hooks and cooks better than any car I have ever owned. Fighting an oil leak right now and I feel like it is over carburetor-ed - has 950cfm on it, going to pull the motor soon for some freshening up and going to try a Street Demon 850 in the spring. It is a purpose built 1/8 mile race car that I am trying to tame a bit to make it more streetable.
And yours?
laj340 said:
Ya yours...Im interested...I like Cars...lol 419 ,727, 8/3/4
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I had a snubber in my car for a minute. It made the car ride worse than with Caltracs. Took it out and went with slapper bars. It rides great, handles well and hooks hard.
 
ya, I was under the impression that if the snubber is adjusted too close to the floor you'll loose suspension travel... this is fine if it a race car only but, if it is to be street driven then the snubber can't be so close and that's when you'll need that 1/4" plate.. I guess this is silly too if you are using an adjustable snubber... move it up/down depending on the driving you are doing... hello!
jbc426 said:
I had a snubber in my car for a minute. It made the car ride worse than with Caltracs. Took it out and went with slapper bars. It rides great, handles well and hooks hard.
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Cool . 391's ,my car is fully stitched welded..ALL ,very tight. 419 has 1500 miles on it. new,runs very good for a street car. Its all i want... mini tubed, fame all box welded in with channel...no cage.
 
There are a lot of opinions on a snubber.

Mine... they are great for propping a door open and getting a breeze in my garage.

They are NEVER found on any of my cars as a traction device. EVER!

Good springs and shocks are all that a mopar should need.
 
crackedback said:
There are a lot of opinions on a snubber.

Mine... they are great for propping a door open and getting a breeze in my garage.

They are NEVER found on any of my cars as a traction device. EVER!

Good springs and shocks are all that a mopar should need.
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maybe mines not working..thats ok...but its there.I need a camera now, cause the floor isnt wrinckling now.
 
not arguing here - just copying and pasting something I just read on Hotrod.com - and I am also not saying I believe Hotrod magazine is the be all and end all of what's to be said about going fast.:
Mopar's Super-Stock leaf springs are a great way to stiffen up the rear of the car, preventing axle wind-up and improving traction, and we consider an adjustable pinion snubber mandatory on a performance Mopar with leaf springs. Adjustable shocks will also allow you to tune the compression and extension times, keeping the tires planted to the pavement for optimum grip.
Up front, torsion bars with less spring load and shocks that extend easily will allow the front of the car to rise during the launch, transferring weight to the rear wheels to help traction. Be careful, however, as drag racing shocks and weaker torsion bars will compromise your car's cornering ability. Again, you need to decide how much you're willing to compromise handling for improved starting line traction.
While four-link or ladder-bar suspensions are probably the best way to get a Mopar hooking up, most of our cars are equipped with a leaf-spring rear suspension. There are kits to eliminate the factory springs, or to add a bar between the axle tubes and the front spring mount, but unless you're making serious power, simply attaining the proper geometry can help you achieve great traction with the parts you have. A leaf-spring car should have six to eight degrees of positive pinion angle to plant the tires firmly during a hard launch, and pinion angle is easily corrected with shims between the axle tubes and the springs. Additionally, a four-wheel alignment will ensure the car is tracking properly.
 
Yes ,super stock springs. nothing less. tight rear end, street car. only runnin 11 easy ...10's on nitros easy. no broken parts...its all i WANT.9's are there,who cares. Not Me.
 
With better shocks, none of that rear susp stuff matters. The mopar bible and it's followers are still living in the 70's when it was written. Same as the Total Timing crowd and let initial fall where it may. That was in the Bible as well.

Ever seen a snubber bent down far enough to kill a driveshaft/yoke/u joint? Another reason to have it propping a door open.

Worked on cars that ran deep in the 9's, SS springs and no snubber in sight. It's a useless item on a well set up car. One of the cars went 8.70's Traction bars do the same basic thing and they are frowned upon in the mopar community. If it works, go with it. Lots of ways to skin a cat in this game.

Many, many traction issues have nothing to do with what's under the rear of the car. The front end holds back more time than most could ever expect.
 
u win im wrong .so sorry.maybe my welding is Not Bad...could be a good thing,any buddy stitched welded up a 1970 duster...everywhere...underdash 2 alot of time...if u weld u know.no sealer here..Be a WELDER it helps. are we still talking about a street driven 1967 fomula with a 440? BETTER TIRES,Good Luck....and a new welder ..lol
 
Thanks guys for your input.
I'm running hooker super comp fenderwell headers, so the front needed to be raised for clearance, but I can bring it down maybe an inch.
I plan on running 1 set of street tyres and 1 set of semi slicks so I can still drive to the track. I'm looking at MH racemasters or MT ET's.

I'll get a set of SS springs and maybe some softer torsion bars and see how she goes.
The clamping of the rear leaf springs has already been done on this car, with clamps on the front and only a couple on the rear section.
I already have competition engineering adjustable drag shocks all round.
The pinion snubber seems to be a debatable subject, so I guess I'll put one in and see for myself.
I'm running 275/60r15 tyres on rear and was surprised with the wheel spin, but I guess 4.3 ratios will do that. :)

Will keep you all posted once I get the parts here.
 
1967formulaS said:
Hi guys,
I've got a 67 formula S fastback
It's got a mild 440, hemi 18 spline 4 speed, strange dana s60 with 4.3 gears, 28 10.5 r15 tyres on rear (bf Goodrich), I have the front raised up just short of the droop stops.
I'm just getting ready to set this thing up and wanted to hear from guys that are either racing or have raced with similar setups.
I still have the original formula s torsion bars and rear leaf springs still in the car. ( it is an original 383/4 speed car)

Even with 1/4 throttle, she is spinning off the line.

I have a set of MH racemasters semi slicks on the way as I want to still be able to drive on the street.

Would SS springs, 6 cylinder torsion bars and an adjustable pinion snubber get me sorted or should I go down the ladder bar or slapper bar route?

I don't want to be doing massive wheel stands. I just want out of the hole nice and flat and quick so I can destroy some rice burners. :)
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Cal-tracs would be my vote and the ft. end is as or MORE important than the rear.......
 
i ran lakewood slappers on my dart with sock heavy duty springs (clamped at the front and un clamped rear)
car hooked and went :) better than with adj snubber
only changed as i changed plans

 
the front end IS important.....90/10 shocks, not adjustable ones, plain old 90/10's.

once you have the rear set up, dont forget long mopar rear shocks or ranchos

the front needs setting up
the car needs to be level with the torsion bar about 1/2'' from the rubber stopper (top one) on both sides
you also ideally need a tall front tyre, so on a abody min 26'' max 28'' tall, and about 45 to 50 psi in them

the rear will take care of itself if its right.

:)
 
this is with snubber and no lakewoods

the snubber does its job of raising the body as its hits which in turn pushes / forces / prevents the axle from twisting, so the snubber did its job...but..
as it raises the car it does manage to keep the front from transfering its weigh so in effect unloading the tyres, even at 12psi i didnt hook as well
the front lifts at the same rate as the rear

you can see iv launched (even tho brake lights are still on) as the rear section of the leafs are starting to seperate well (which you want them to do, you can if wanted not even bolt the rear section to the car, but scrutineering do have issues with floating axles.....

 
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