RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
It's not dead hooking...yet.
It has pulled the wheels rolling out of the water during the burn out
It has pulled the wheels rolling out of the water during the burn out
Wheelie question
- Thread starter RJK3
- Start date
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Try a chain style limiter on the cheap. You could shim the upper arm bumps stop as another method. It will slow rotation down when it dead stops on the limiters.
How much travel now? If it's Stock elim style travel, you may have too much.
How much travel now? If it's Stock elim style travel, you may have too much.
RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
To my knowledge, it's basically a stock configuration. I'm 1800 miles from the car, but he can give me whatever info is pertaining to this.
I really appreciate everyone's input, we won't be able to test any changes to the car until spring. We're just looking for the best/economical changes to work on over the winter.
I really appreciate everyone's input, we won't be able to test any changes to the car until spring. We're just looking for the best/economical changes to work on over the winter.
At the end of the 2016 my car was doing the same as the op. While the wheelies were and are fun, the car would bounce and then vary 2-3 hun in the 60ft. My car at that time had a non adjustable coilovers on the front. I switched to qa1 double adjustables and it fixed both the big wheelies and bouncing issues. All while making the car much more consitant. My car runs 6.30-6.40s with high 1.3 60ft.
Cool, then maybe shocks will work for him. I was thinking it was too much weight and bounce for shocks to properly handle......hopefully it will be that easy.
RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
It runs mid 1.3 60's pretty consistently, granted we've only done one t-brake hit, it didn't change a lot. The trans brake launch was the first and only hit for the day, as it wiped the blanket off, so we put it in the trailer.
famous bob
mopar misfit
If , ur wanting to drop the rpm in the lights, I`d change the rear gear to a 4:56, before I did anything else. It probly wont come up as high to start with . But all of the above ideas sound good. If its pulling to the right, u need more pressure on the right tire , regardless of how u accomplish it .
How much body roll if any does it have?
RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
No body roll. He is thinking 4:30 gear will calm things down on both ends. I will still push for D/A shocks though.
Looking at the avatar pic, the left front wheel is a bit higher than the right? Or is the angle of the camera making it look like that? Anyways, the torque of the engine does that but the rear end torques in the opposite direction. Just that alone can make the car want to 'rear' steer. Someone mentioned adding some air to the right rear and see if it makes a difference. I would try that too so see if it does make a change in the launch but I'm not real crazy about about making a full pass with different air pressures in the rears but small increases should let you know pretty quickly. If it does make a difference, then you might try adding a bit more preload to the chassis. And small changes are safe changes imo....
RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
Foot brake
RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
Trans brake 4500rpm
RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
Couldn't fix the orientation....sorry
But thats me in the far lane.
If you look closely, you can see the diaper get wiped off the pan. It didn't come completely off, just ripped the front two straps.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
DA shocks all the way around and let it be. I'm not too worried after seeing the pictures. The height of the wheelie doesn't bother me. Just the bouncing.
And DA shocks will help with that.
I love the way the car leaves.
BTW, you MIGHT have a skosh too much front travel. Just a bit. BUT...if you limit travel and hit the limiter too hard it will unload the rear tires. Again...DA shocks............
And DA shocks will help with that.
I love the way the car leaves.
BTW, you MIGHT have a skosh too much front travel. Just a bit. BUT...if you limit travel and hit the limiter too hard it will unload the rear tires. Again...DA shocks............
MikeD
Well-Known Member
The da shocks will improve the 60ft of the car anyway, vikings are fairly reasonable, then just slow the front extension down a bit and change the rear gear for a 4.30 or 4.56.
That foot brake shot up there ^^^^^ is bitchin.
Coffee&Cars
Well-Known Member
Depending on what rear suspension you have, IMO. I would move the instant center so it does not have so much leverage on the front end. Converting the power to lift into forward motion. Your answer is not more parts, but to balance out what you have.
RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
Could you give me some tips on how to manipulate the IC?
The rear is a latter bar/floating set-up
The rear is a latter bar/floating set-up
dart_68
Well-Known Member
For your set up you change your IC by changing what hole the front of the ladder bars bolt to. You stated you have 3 holes. Unless I'm mistaken, moving to a higher hole will move the IC back and up.
The reason I suggested parts, is because It sounded like OP was happy with the wheelie. I personally like a car to leave with the bottom of the tires 4 ft in the sky. There is no reason you can't have your cake and eat it too!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Moving the IC up and back will make it hit the tire harder, quicker and will most likely lower the wheelie height some.
If the OP moves the IC up and back he will almost certainly have to make the shock stiffer in rebound to keep the tire from bouncing back after the hit.
UOTE="yellow rose, post: 1971926971, member: 41803"]Moving the IC up and back will make it hit the tire harder, quicker and will most likely lower the wheelie height some.
If the OP moves the IC up and back he will almost certainly have to make the shock stiffer in rebound to keep the tire from bouncing back after the hit.[/QUOTE]
YR, buy moving up a hole, would'nt that be triangulating the bars more, therefore giving more leverage for lift??
If the OP moves the IC up and back he will almost certainly have to make the shock stiffer in rebound to keep the tire from bouncing back after the hit.[/QUOTE]
YR, buy moving up a hole, would'nt that be triangulating the bars more, therefore giving more leverage for lift??
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
YR, buy moving up a hole, would'nt that be triangulating the bars more, therefore giving more leverage for lift??[/QUOTE]
Yes it will give the bar more leverage. It also speeds up how fast and how hard the chassis hits the tire. An IC of say 34 inches out and 8 inches up (I'm guessing on my numbers because I haven't run a ladder bar since 1984) may be the middle hole. So, if you move to the next hole up you are still about 34 inches out but you will be about 2 inches higher. With the bar running downhill to the back you are giving it more leverage than it had before, and it makes the bars hit the tire harder. If it does, you have to possibly add 2 maybe 3 clicks of rebound damping in the rear shocks. If you hit the tire hard enough, it will try to bounce back up into the wheel well. That's why a DA shock is so important. You can make the shock extend very quickly and hit the tire. A and then you can stiffen the rebound so the tire doesn't try to bounce.
DA shocks are the single most important tuning tool you have. If you have single adjustable shocks, you are stuck with the engineers idea of what compression dampening works with what rebound dampening. DA shocks give you the extra tune-ability to greatly change shock behavior in one direction without doing a thing to the other direction.
famous bob
mopar misfit
Will go quicker w/ them lower than that, wasted motion in the upper movement. Does look kick a-- tho !
I get what you are saying Bob, but all them super stockers can't be wrong. A wheelie is simply the pinion climbing the ring gear. As long as you have forward motion, how much time is really lost?? That is to say if the landing is controlled.
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