***Where to buy 8-10pt cage for 67 Dart***

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Mad Dart

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I need a cage for my car and want the rear tubes to follow the headliner and go thru the speaker holes in the package tray.

Where do I buy a good kit that is the easiest to install with the tube notching already done??

links etc would be appreciated.
 
The rear bars should go as far back to the frame rails as possible for maximum stiffening. I used an ART kit and although the rear bars are straight they do go through the speaker holes. Although mine has some extra bars.

http://www.appliedracing.com/

348108601.jpg
 
Chassisworks will bend the rear bars for you. They charge a little more for the bent bars. My 8 point with straight bars was $219. They fishmouth one end of each bar for you.
 
Thanks for the quick replies as always!

I just need to make my mind up if the seat is going to stay or not........All those tubes look badddd azzzzzzzz
 
Hey mad dart, I think you should keep the seats in with the roll cage..I think it looks really trick...But, it also looks good with out a seat when the whole inside of the car is sheet metal, like guitar jones has pictured....
 
Yeah I like the rear seat in also, I would probably NEVER let anybody back there but it looks good in a mostly street drivin car IMO. The full race look with seat out is really nice also. I would make it a 20 pt cage if the seat gets taken out, flippin bars all over the place...........haaaaaaaaaaa
 
Theres got to be a chassis shop that can put a roll bar in for you..those kits you buy are generic and always need to be modified to fit each car.. i had my roll bar fabbed and installed exactely the way i wanted it came out great..
 
Theres got to be a chassis shop that can put a roll bar in for you..those kits you buy are generic and always need to be modified to fit each car.. i had my roll bar fabbed and installed exactely the way i wanted it came out great..
I had bought the kit from S&W for a 65-66 Dart.I only had to trim the ends of a couple bars,fit was all good.I feel I saved some cash doing it myself versus paying over $1000 to have it done.:read2:
 
I was quoted $700 on a cage from a couple of different places...
 
I was quoted $700 on a cage from a couple of different places...


I will be doing it myself. The last quote I got was $2000.00. I dont care if I have to bend all the tubes myself!

Theres got to be a chassis shop that can put a roll bar in for you..those kits you buy are generic and always need to be modified to fit each car.. i had my roll bar fabbed and installed exactely the way i wanted it came out great..

I don't mind fine tuning it myself, I am pretty deep into the car on my own and I will be doing ALL the work on it myself except for the Paint/Interior, stainless work and finishes like chrome and coatings etc.
 
You got the MadSkills to install,the kit was just a time saver.I didn,t have to do all the measuring and running around for bending.
 
We think alike,with...I built this car the way I wanted to and saved $$$ doing it myself.Just some things are cheaper and better off buying built already.IMO.:clock:
 
It's called satisfaction guaranteed! No matter how it turns out we can say I did the work myself!
Do you have a bender? If not by the time you buy a bender/degree wheel and 1 set of dies http://www.jd2.com/shop/custom.aspx?recid=1 you will be close to $800(this was the first hit on google). Add to that the price of the tube, my car took 120' of it, and the fab guy had zero waste, and you will probably be real close to $1100-$1200. It did not pay to do it myself.....I do not know what I actually paid for just the cage, I was quoted a price on the whole thing, 3k for cage/min tub/spring relocate and motor plate/mid plate set up. Only stuff I supplied was the spring relocation kit and swing out stuff for side rails. In this price also was the rear firewall, harness mounts and window net mount.
 
Inkjunkie,

I have a good friend of mine that builds full tube chassis cars in his garage. His own personal car runs an 8.20 1/4 mile. The chassis he builds are inspected on the spot and tagged for the et range that they qualify to run in. He will help me bend the tubes all I have to do is ask. I just don't want to bother him because he is tremendously busy, unless I REALLY need to.If at some point I did the FULL roof bar and went down around the dash etc he would be my first call.

I am not worried too much about an 8 pt cage I will purchase a pre-bent unit probably from Art Morrison and Install it myself.........Piece of cake right?
 
Did you get a shipping quote? How much?

I might need to order a bar or two
 
There is a local guy near Spokane that installs the pre-bent kits. When I spoke to him a while back he said that the only changes he has ever had to make are to the door bars, some of the ones he has installed hit the arm rests. From the looks of your rear suspension you will not have any issues putting the cage in....
 
I have been going back and forth about the cage on my Duster. Was thinking of just getting a kit from Jegs but it is still up in the air.
 
Did you get a shipping quote? How much?

I might need to order a bar or two

Yes it was $95.00 I think Summit and Jegs charges the same if I remember.

The kit was $205 +$45 extra for the rear bars to be bent + shipping.

They did not charge tax......total delivered was $345.00 to my door
 
I am going the DIY route. I just picked up a bunch of meterial from the metal yard. we will be starting it next weekend. we thought about installing a prefab, but i like the idea of doing it myself. its a little more enjoyable. and besides i have plenty of time to build it.
 
I am going the DIY route. I just picked up a bunch of meterial from the metal yard. we will be starting it next weekend. we thought about installing a prefab, but i like the idea of doing it myself. its a little more enjoyable. and besides i have plenty of time to build it.

Right on! You should start a new thread showing the whole process!
 
Right on! You should start a new thread showing the whole process!
I will. It will have everything from the subframe connectors, roll cage, all aluminum intrior trim panels, 5.7 hemi motor mounts (on a /6 K member), custom built headers, and exhaust. Modified 5.7 truck wireing harness, nitrous install, home built spring relocation kit, complete new brake system, front end rebuild. (painted and bushings installed) That is just the begining. All that has to be done before it cools off here in AZ and its good racing weather. Then next summer it will be fiberglass front end, body work and paint. (paint will have a custom true fire paint job) Then its on to building a new motor. I'm looking at a 329ci, 5.7 baised stroker with 09+ closed chamer heads, nitrous cam and a 12.5:1 compression ratio, and upping the nitrous to a 400 shot. If that does not get me to stain my shorts nothing will. I'm hopeing that it will make over 600 flywheel HP. (before nitrous) The current motor going in is a stock bottom end 5.7 hemi, with Inertia Motorsports ported and polished heads and spartan cam. with a 150 shot. (my guess is about 600 flywheel HP on nitrous)
 
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