Where to buy a 727 transmission

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75 valiant said:
hello
looking to buy a new 727 transmission does anyone know where I can buy one?
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I Custom Build 727 & 904 TF Trans . I am in Greeley Colorado . Where do you live at ? Freight can be high $$ . 727 Weight is 135 Lbs . Without Fluid and Converter .. Street or Strip and Describe Engine ..
 
mdventuri said:
I Custom Build 727 & 904 TF Trans . I am in Greeley Colorado . Where do you live at ? Freight can be high $$ . 727 Weight is 135 Lbs . Without Fluid and Converter .. Street or Strip and Describe Engine ..
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$450 Plus Parts Required based on Horse Power & intended usage ..
 
I live in Massachusetts. My motor makes around 450 horse. The transmission will need to handle the horse power.
There's a problem with the one I'm using now. It keeps wearing down the snoot on the stall converter. I've gone through 4 converts in a year.
Not sure what's causing this problem, but the transmission is the only part that was used.
 
75 valiant said:
I live in Massachusetts. My motor makes around 450 horse. The transmission will need to handle the horse power.
There's a problem with the one I'm using now. It keeps wearing down the snoot on the stall converter. I've gone through 4 converts in a year.
Not sure what's causing this problem, but the transmission is the only part that was used.
Click to expand...



are there dowl pins in the engine ? there is something out of alignment .
 
Worn drive hub (goes into trans) or snout in the form of the front part that goes into the crankshaft register? Snout doesnt usually wear as its locked into place with the flexplate. Now you can be cracking flexplates because your hub is the wrong size or the dowel pins are not aligned anymore (line bored block) but a cracking drive hub would most likely be a misaligned bellhousing/case.
 
I have replace the dowel pins and I am using the B/M heavy duty flexplate. The part of the converter that slides into the transmission is what I'm calling the snout.
The block started out as a 360 and was changed to a 408.
No line boring was done.
Tuesday the motor and tranny are going to be checked for alignment. If the transmission is junk I want to get a new one as fast as possible. Short car show season in Massachusetts. I have heard bad thing about TCI. Not sure how B/M transmission are.
 
#1 Stop buying crap off the shelf converters..

#2 Get a quality 9.5" unit from PTC, Dynamic, Turbo action etc. Made to YOUR specs. $475-625.

I don't understand why people spend thousands on engines then refuse get THE most important piece of the drive train quality measured.. It's a HUGE deal to get the most from your combination..

You shoot yourself in the foot every time you don't.
 
My daughter lives in Bridgewater. Anyway, go to the best : Dynamic Transmissions in Ct., TSR transmissions in Keene, N.H., A&A transmissions in Ind. Both TSR and A&A MAKE THE PARTS FOR torqueflites. TSR did mine, straight up guys
 
I looked into all the transmission companies you guys suggested. I'm think I should send back the B/M hole shot converter that is do to arive tomorrow.
Thanks for the information and once I figure out what has caused this problem I'll post back.
 
something is wrong, you do not need a custom converter, how is the fit in the back of the crank, everything in balance?
 
cuz he is not buying a custom converter the snout is wiping out-I would not buy a $600 unit and then see it wipe out
 
To answer your question directly, you cannot buy a new 727 anywhere, as they are no longer made. All you can buy are rebuilt ones. Choose wisely.
 
I find it odd that the converter hub is giving all this grief. If the converter has been properly built, the hub checked for alignment with the converter body, there really isn't an explanation as to why the hub is wearing down.
I'm surprised that no one has asked you: how does the pump bushing look. Is it also worn out, cause if it is, it'll wear the hub out pretty damn quick. Also, do you have a leak from the front pump seal? How does the inner pump gear look? Are the tangs on this gear damaged in any way.

During the years that I worked in the industry, converter hub wear was typically the result of : pump bushing gone, broken flex plate, converter pilot(the little part that fits into the crank) out of round, hole in the crank not right, and last but not least, improper installation of the converter. I'm not saying you've installed it wrong, but I've seen guys not installing the converter all the way into the pump and then try to correct this problem with an air gun and socket upon installation of the transmission.

If you mount a converter in a lathe and spin it, you should find, using a dial gauge, the run out should not exceed more than 25 thousands of an inch. If it does, usually that means the hub has not been welded in straight, the two halves of the converter are mis-aligned, or possibly the converter has been dropped on the hub. Any converter shop that I've been into, the last step prior to balancing and painting is checking the hub runout.
 
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The attachment on Woods 74 note is excellent. Just make sure if and when you order a custom converter you give whomever you chose all the information you have on your car. Don't guess on the HP, you either know exactly what it is or you don't. Any mis-information supplied to any high stall converter builder will end up with you having the wrong converter for your application.
Keep in mind, that just because a certain size converter works in one guys car, doesn't mean its the right one for yours.
 
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