where to buy paint?

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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Im looking to match the cars paint with JY3 Honey Gold. I tried one site I found, but they dont have it at all. Anyone know where to get some at a good price?
 
Take it to a body shop supply store... they can scan the color and mix you what you need.
 
cant drive it... and I want to paint engine bay myself...I think I need 1-2qts of color and one of clear
 
A quart of color would be fine for an engine bay. Also if you live close they will probably take the scanner to your house... or you can bring a small panel in... if you plan on painting the entire car eventually just give them the correct paint code and they can mix it. I have had some issues with PPG not being able to mix some older colors but they can usually cross reference it to something else.
 
Since the Op is in California he will be stuck with waterbourne type paint I believe. Can you even buy single stage solvent based paint there anymore? He may not be able to buy paint over the counter as a consumer. I know that DuPont has a chart with the complete color spectrum and he should be able to find something very close to his original color that would be a base/clear formula. I can check on Monday to see if I can get a duPont formula at work.
 
I went to NAPA and they had a hand held scanner and just placed it on the car and matched it perfectly.
 
Too bad you aren't in MO. I have a gallon of Centari sitting on the shelf. I had a Honey Gold '73 Duster that I planned to paint the original color but I ended up painting it red. (long story)
I bought it before the local O'reilly store stopped selling Centari. Now they sell Nason which doesn't seem to cover as well but I've been getting by with it. So far they have been able to mix all the colors I needed just using the color code.
I don't think Aeromonte will have any problems getting a formula for you.
Dallas
 
I wouldn't want to get caught shipping paint to California or recieving it either. It is illegal as it is considered hazardous materiel. A better bet would be someone transporting a car to Ca and the paint could be in the trunk for a free ride. There's haulers headed that way every week of the year.
 
Yea California is a tough state to get anything into that is paint. Most places won't even ship it to there no matter what. From what I heard the easiest way is to drive over the boarder and buy paint there. If you're going for paint I suggest the DuPont Chroma based system (they're are tons of colors). 1 gallon should do your entire car and 2 pints of clearcoat should do your car (depending on the brand of clear). Don't forget to get hardner and activator, and make sure to figure out the temp you're gonna be painting in to get the correct hardner
 
You have it backwards. A quart of color should cover the entire car in base coat, then a gallon of clear to do the entire car. We use DuPonts chroma system at work. For metallics the base is very transparent on some colors so keep that in mind. The base coat is mixed 1 to 1 so for a quart of color you will get 2 quarts of reduced color ready to spray. Also I recommend using the correct sealer for the color as it will make a difference. DuPont uses Value Shade 1 through 7 depending on the color. There are many clears you can use depending on the environment your spraying in. Your paint supplier can help with that.
They also have a camara that can scan your color to make a formula but from experience it isn't very accurate on older cars and paint. DuPont does have a color chart spectrum that will get very close as a last resort. I had to use it to paint a lime green RoadRunner a few years ago. They now have a formula for lime green so they may have a formula for your gold also.
You can also use a single stage paint (enamel) like Centari but it's less forgiving if you have issues like runs, dirt nibs, fish eyes etc. I would recommend the base/clear unless your spraying in a controlled environment.
 
Aeromonte said:
You have it backwards. A quart of color should cover the entire car in base coat, then a gallon of clear to do the entire car. We use DuPonts chroma system at work. For metallics the base is very transparent on some colors so keep that in mind. The base coat is mixed 1 to 1 so for a quart of color you will get 2 quarts of reduced color ready to spray. Also I recommend using the correct sealer for the color as it will make a difference. DuPont uses Value Shade 1 through 7 depending on the color. There are many clears you can use depending on the environment your spraying in. Your paint supplier can help with that.
They also have a camara that can scan your color to make a formula but from experience it isn't very accurate on older cars and paint. DuPont does have a color chart spectrum that will get very close as a last resort. I had to use it to paint a lime green RoadRunner a few years ago. They now have a formula for lime green so they may have a formula for your gold also.
You can also use a single stage paint (enamel) like Centari but it's less forgiving if you have issues like runs, dirt nibs, fish eyes etc. I would recommend the base/clear unless your spraying in a controlled environment.
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A quart for an entire car? I would LOVE to see that.
 
With base coat it's done all the time. One quart of base reduces down to two quarts of sprayable color....that's a half gallon of sprayable color. You only put enough color to achieve a uniform color on the car. I also said that some metallics are more transparent and might need more color. A gallon of color would leave the OP with a bunch of needless expense unless he just wanted to have the extra laying on the shelf for later.
 
Single stage stuff in California is still solvent based.

I painted my Dart engine compartment not long ago and used TCP global as a supplier, they are in San Diego.
 
Aeromonte said:
With base coat it's done all the time. One quart of base reduces down to two quarts of sprayable color....that's a half gallon of sprayable color. You only put enough color to achieve a uniform color on the car. I also said that some metallics are more transparent and might need more color. A gallon of color would leave the OP with a bunch of needless expense unless he just wanted to have the extra laying on the shelf for later.
Click to expand...


Been painting cars for 15 years, and never once got coverage on a car with one quart of paint. And you do not "only put enough color to achieve a UNIFORM color".. you put enough on to achieve hiding. Sure you could get a uniform color with one quart... only problem is you would see right through it!:bs:
 
OK your right and my 27 years of painting are wrong. Feel better now? Everybody sprays differently and every gun sprays differenty. Your right about uniform hiding but if the car is sealed with a uniform color of sealer then that's a mute point. I don't think the OP said anything about doing a complete paint job but I could be mistaken, I've been wrong before. Keep on painting because there are less and less of us around who do this kind of stuff. Just trying to help someone that asked a question.
 
Not trying to get in a pissing match either.. but if someone is looking for advice on a quantity of paint, I would prefer if they got sound advice on it. Using a tinted sealer is a great point to make... the problem with that is you are relying on the sealer to help you achieve coverage... the color of the sealer shouldn't matter... if you are getting 100% coverage you are getting 100% true color. You should be able to use any color sealer you want, a paint covers the same.. hence a black and white spray out card. I always use a black sealer, that way you know you have coverage. Use a spray out card to find out how many coats it takes, every color is different. On average 3 coats of base will be needed, and on a complete paint job, 1 quart would probably get you one coat of base, maybe 1.5. 2 coats of base with a tinted sealer... isn't true coverage.
 
I always run 3 coats of base and 3 coats of clear. normally a gallon of each unmixed will be plenty to do the car ....jams,underhood and exterior .......and close to a quart left over incase I need to do touch ups.

My 72 duster was originally the honey dew gold ( I personally was not a fan of it) I called it desert storm tan lol. mine was honey dew gold with a gold snake skin vinyl roof and had the gold duster gold side stripes and tail panel stripes with black door bumper strips on the doors and had gold interior.

to me it was one heck of any ugly combo lol so I converted to black interior and plum crazy is what the exterior is going to be.

but to each his own.

and like others have said you should be able to take and have the color scanned....or have them cross reference the color code for you......or since you cant take the car in...maybe take a part of the car in....like a fender or the hood latch assembly or something that like that.

good luck
 
Aeromonte, are you using Chromabase or ChromaPremier? I've always used Chromabase but the stuff is getting so thin it won't cover for anything. I'm reshooting my sister's Shelby Dakota and I originally thought 3 quarts of base would get it done. Well, it did the cab (no jambs), with a little left over. So I bought 2 more quarts thinking that would be enough to do the bed inside and out and the tailgate. Well, it did the bed, not a drop left over to do the tailgate. So I had to buy more, and the only thing exotic about Exotic Red is the price! I didn't seal the cab as I only had a couple of primer spots and my primer was close to the Valueshade. I did seal the bed but it still took several coats to cover.
A friend was telling me that the ChromaPremier covered much better than Chromabase so, even though the initial cost was higher you used much less material.
I'm starting to think O'reillys has formulas that use more balancer and binder than is necessary. Most Chromabase I buy has maybe 25% color in the formula and the rest is balancer and binder.
I can remember when Dupont first came out with basecoat, superior coverage was one of it's selling points. And I remember buying a quart of paint to do an overall. But the base was so thick you had to thin it before it would go through a strainer.
I've been doing this since 1973 and still get my butt kicked ever so often.
Dallas
 
Dllas we use Chroma Premier. Reds and whites seem to be the worst for transparency, many are 2 to 1 mix ratios o help with coverage. Silvers and black cover the best. With DuPont it is critical to use the correct value shade sealer. In our shop we rarely do complete paint jobs although we do have two in the shop from storm damage.
I'll try to get a formula for JY3 in single stage and basecoat today.
 
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