Where to start on front end rebuild?

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SeattleQQ1Fish

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I'm rebuilding a front suspension (67 Barracuda) for the first time, including a new Dr. Diff brake kit. All the old parts are completely stripped off the front end, and the car is cleaned up and ready to be reassembled with new parts. I swapped in a new K-member on Sunday, but I'm not sure what my next step is, or how much it matters.
Do I start from the UCAs and work my way down, or LCAs/torsion bars first?
Thanks in advance for your input.
 
Idler and pitman arm and centerline first, lower arms and torsion bars next, then spindles and upper arms then tierods and adjusting sleeves.

Seems like a decent order of assembly


.
 
Install K frame, LCA / strut rods, torsion bars then work your way up. You need to install the strut rods as your sliding in your lower control arm pivots. Other than that it really doesnt matter what order you do the rest.
 
Don’t forget to install the strut rods into the K frame first and then engage the strut rod onto the lower control arm when sliding the control arm in place.

Failure to follow this order will result in you not being able to install the strut rod later.

Cliff Ramsdell
 
K-member first, Factory strut rod bushings into the K-member, lower control arms with their strut rod, inner washer, and inner bushing (if aftermarket bushing) attached, Install adjuster bolt and washer in the LCA if not already installed (and keep the adjuster backed off for now. Keep the nut on the big LCA pin loose for now too. Next, lube torsion bars, install their grease boots, lube their sockets in the LCA's and rear anchor, install them and the rear retainer clips. Make sure you have the RH and LH bars on their respective sides. Lube the adjusters and install the upper control arms. Install the lower ball joints onto the spindles. Lift the spindle/ball joint assembly into the lower control arm and install the nut finger tight. Lift spindle and lower upper control arm ball joint into the upper part of the spindle and install it's nut. Tighten upper and lower ball joint nuts to specs and install cotter pins. Install the front sway bar if so equipped. Tighten torsion bar adjusters until the bottom of the head of the bolt is about even with the lower edge of the LCA. (That just gives you a starting point, as that adjustment will most likely change once you get it on it's feet, set the road height, and align the front end). Install the idler arm and pitman arm. Install the tie rod assemblies onto the center link. Install the center link assembly onto the idler and pitman, and also the tie rod ends onto the lower ball joints. Get the toe-in as close as you can so you can drive it to the alignment shop. Tighten all nuts to specs and install their cotter pins. Install the shocks. Install your brake lines and the rest of your brake system. Tighten the LCA pin nut to specs after the road height has been set with the car on it's feet. I'm sure I've forgotten something, but, someone here will point that out!:lol:
 
K-member first, Factory strut rod bushings into the K-member, lower control arms with their strut rod, inner washer, and inner bushing (if aftermarket bushing) attached, Install adjuster bolt and washer in the LCA if not already installed (and keep the adjuster backed off for now. Keep the nut on the big LCA pin loose for now too. Next, lube torsion bars, install their grease boots, lube their sockets in the LCA's and rear anchor, install them and the rear retainer clips. Make sure you have the RH and LH bars on their respective sides. Lube the adjusters and install the upper control arms. Install the lower ball joints onto the spindles. Lift the spindle/ball joint assembly into the lower control arm and install the nut finger tight. Lift spindle and lower upper control arm ball joint into the upper part of the spindle and install it's nut. Tighten upper and lower ball joint nuts to specs and install cotter pins. Install the front sway bar if so equipped. Tighten torsion bar adjusters until the bottom of the head of the bolt is about even with the lower edge of the LCA. (That just gives you a starting point, as that adjustment will most likely change once you get it on it's feet, set the road height, and align the front end). Install the idler arm and pitman arm. Install the tie rod assemblies onto the center link. Install the center link assembly onto the idler and pitman, and also the tie rod ends onto the lower ball joints. Get the toe-in as close as you can so you can drive it to the alignment shop. Tighten all nuts to specs and install their cotter pins. Install the shocks. Install your brake lines and the rest of your brake system. Tighten the LCA pin nut to specs after the road height has been set with the car on it's feet. I'm sure I've forgotten something, but, someone here will point that out!:lol:
I’m guessing you’ve done this before?
 
Maybe I'm a little backwards, I start with the idler then center link. Then ALL one side, Lower Control and strut, upper control arm. Spindle and lower ball joint, tie rod end. Then to other side. Then sway bar.


Alan
 
Adjust ride height second last, then tighten LCA pivot pins.

Good point. If the LCA pivot is tightened first you risk ripping the rubber loose in them. Tighten these after setting your torsion bars.
 
What year k member? Remember 67 has the one year specific idler arm. Lots of good info in this thread.
 
If you have new brake hard lines, I'd put those in first before anything else.
 
What year k member? Remember 67 has the one year specific idler arm. Lots of good info in this thread.
It’s a Qa1 K member. My first choice was a factory piece, but I wasn’t able find one locally. After factoring in shipping and the cost and time to restore the mopar one, it was easier to get the Qa1 from Summit.
 
Thanks everyone for the input. Really good detailed information here.
 
I can help with all parts are advice. I'm a site sponsor and contributor for 15 years. Bergmanautocraft.com.

For whats its worth, I get emails regarding fit issues on the QA1 K frame almost daily. I have a feeling the component attachment points are not exactly as original. Remember TTI and Borgeson equipment was all developed with original K frames.
 
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