Which 3" tailpipes?

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DrCharles

DrCharles

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Since there is no exhaust shop anywhere near me with a mandrel bender, I'd like to buy tailpipes for my 3" exhaust that need the minimum of rework to fit. I broke in the cam with turn-downs and it'd be way too loud, not to mention that MO doesn't allow underbody exit.

Car is a '72 Dart Swinger (111" wb), 451, Hedman B-body headers, X-pipe, Summit 3" turbo mufflers in (hopefully close to) stock position. I have minitubs with the springs relocated inward.

I made the headpipes from mandrel bends since I needed small dog-legs to line up the Hedmans with the crossmember humps, then the Summit X-pipe kit with the mufflers on the end of the rear legs. So now I need to get from the mufflers over the 8-3/4.

I was thinking of the TTi '67-'76 3" tailpipes which are $236 +shipping at Mancini, but don't know how well they'll fit my particular chassis and for that price I don't want to do (or pay for) a lot of reworking.

Any thoughts?
thanks
Charles
 
When I bought my 3s from TTI,for my 68 Barracuda,I bought a complete kit front to rear. They told me they were for a 111wb, and sure enough I had to cut some out from the fronts. Not knowing where I would have to section the pipes,I installed everything from back to front. The 3s are a very tight fit between the tank and the framerails, but with a little ingenuity it all fit.I bought the ones with the turn-downs; That was a lucky spontaneous decision, as when the salesgirl asked me, I didn't even know there were options. I just blurted the choice out without aforethought.And yes dual 3s are fairly loud on my 367, but the Dynomaxers make the scream bearable,and I have never in 14 years been given a citation for noise.
I have stock tubs, and my springs have been moved inboard a bit,close to 3/4 inch per side.
 
can ya call tti and see if they will fit with the springs moved in?

i put a 2.5" tti kit on our dart. directions say to start from he rear and work forward.. the kit is tight but does fit well.. i also bought the turn downs. they are designed more for the 67-69 cars with a rear bumper and the turn downs suck out and was all kinds of stupid looking on our 70 dart so i cut the tips back and they look much better now..

you biggest issue assuming that they fit with the springs moved in is if the mufflers are in the correct location..
 
moved springs may be why tti puts the tail pipes inside the frame rails instead of the stock location...

DSC_0016.JPG
 
top pic is the way the pipes came. sticking out way too far and plain stupid looking.. second pic is them fixed... i thought about bringing them in even more but wanted to make sure the exhaust didn't get trapped under he car.


DSC_0011.JPG


DSC_0026.JPG
 
I have a 66 Dart that I bought the TTI headers and the 3" x pipe. Those parts fit great. My springs are moved in 3" and when I called TTI about their tailpipes I was told that their 3" tailpipes would not work on any car with a spring relocation kit. I just made tailpipes yesterday using pieces and welding them together as I went. I ended up with them exiting just behind the rear tires. As for noise there was not a lot a difference with just mufflers then going to the tailpipes. If you want more detail let me know. Also if you decide to make your own pipes I found a place in maryland that has mandrel bent pieces that are much less money then buying from summit or jegs. Happy to pass that on as well.
Best of luck
Rod
DSCN1507.JPG
 
Thanks for all the input :)

My springs are moved in 3" and when I called TTI about their tailpipes I was told that their 3" tailpipes would not work on any car with a spring relocation kit.
Click to expand...

Well, that probably rules out TTI then. Mine are also moved in that far. Although I forgot to mention I have a fuel cell in the trunk now, so clearance to the stock tank is not an issue if I want to move the mufflers towards the center a few inches. I don't know how far apart the stock mufflers were - I got the car as a stripped shell.

I suppose can continue towards the bumper with mandrel bends, my trusty Lisle pipe expander tool and 3/4" impact wrench. But I have a wrist problem likely requiring surgery that really limits my ability to use a heavy impact this year.

I bought my bends direct from Columbia River Mandrel Bending , and also Mandrel Bends has a complete line although they sell through distributors. Who's the source in MD?

thanks
Charles
 
AJ/FormS said:
When I bought my 3s from TTI,for my 68 Barracuda,I bought a complete kit front to rear. They told me they were for a 111wb, and sure enough I had to cut some out from the fronts. Not knowing where I would have to section the pipes,I installed everything from back to front. The 3s are a very tight fit between the tank and the framerails, but with a little ingenuity it all fit.I bought the ones with the turn-downs; That was a lucky spontaneous decision, as when the salesgirl asked me, I didn't even know there were options. I just blurted the choice out without aforethought.And yes dual 3s are fairly loud on my 367, but the Dynomaxers make the scream bearable,and I have never in 14 years been given a citation for noise.
I have stock tubs, and my springs have been moved inboard a bit,close to 3/4 inch per side.
Click to expand...
Which kit did you use to move your springs in 3/4" per side? I am pleased to hear about this, I also have the 3" TTI kit to go on this winter and was told I could not move springs in at all with 3" kit. If I can move springs in a small amount I will be able to get my 255 60 15's in there.
 
It seems the kits advertised as 3/4 " may not be. Some have mentioned this. The kit I bought,and my install put the springs slightly inboard of the factory tubs, which is all you need to maximize room in the stock tubs. I bought a Chrysler kit. I had to put holes in the frame rails to accommodate the bolt-heads. Then of course I had to relocate the perches on the axle tubes.I leveled the frame and dropped plumb-lines from a 3/8 inch spacer(for tub to sidewall clearance), on the inner tub walls, then located the perches as far as I could towards the plumb lines, without the springs intruding into the tire space. There I clamped it down. Then I lowered the car to it's normal ride height and set the pinion angle. While doing all this, I kept an eye out for where the outer sidewall was going in relation to the outer fender lips, to maintain the entire pkg was centered in the tubs. In this way, I was able to fit 325/50-15s in stock 68 Barracuda tubs. Just barely. They worked fine in most situations, but with spirited cornering they would occasionally rub on the inner tub walls. I determined the area of offense and took the bfg to it,problem more or less solved.lol
 
AJ/FormS said:
It seems the kits advertised as 3/4 " may not be. Some have mentioned this. The kit I bought,and my install put the springs slightly inboard of the factory tubs, which is all you need to maximize room in the stock tubs. I bought a Chrysler kit. I had to put holes in the frame rails to accommodate the bolt-heads. Then of course I had to relocate the perches on the axle tubes.I leveled the frame and dropped plumb-lines from a 3/8 inch spacer(for tub to sidewall clearance), on the inner tub walls, then located the perches as far as I could towards the plumb lines, without the springs intruding into the tire space. There I clamped it down. Then I lowered the car to it's normal ride height and set the pinion angle. While doing all this, I kept an eye out for where the outer sidewall was going in relation to the outer fender lips, to maintain the entire pkg was centered in the tubs. In this way, I was able to fit 325/50-15s in stock 68 Barracuda tubs. Just barely. They worked fine in most situations, but with spirited cornering they would occasionally rub on the inner tub walls. I determined the area of offense and took the bfg to it,problem more or less solved.lol
Click to expand...
And no mods were required to exhaust to fit between spring and gas tank?
 
cpearce said:
Which kit did you use to move your springs in 3/4" per side? I am pleased to hear about this, I also have the 3" TTI kit to go on this winter and was told I could not move springs in at all with 3" kit. If I can move springs in a small amount I will be able to get my 255 60 15's in there.
Click to expand...


you should have no problem putting 255 60 15's in there with the right offset you should be able get 275 60 15 in there without moving anything .
 
jimjimjimmy said:
you should have no problem putting 255 60 15's in there with the right offset you should be able get 275 60 15 in there without moving anything .
Click to expand...
I have 15x8 with 4.5 bs and with 245 60 15 I could not put tip of pinkie finger between wheel lip and tire. I have a second housing we narrowed to 51 5/16 I will use. The new problem becomes spring clearance, the 1/2" gain on each side will help a bunch. TTI told me I could not use my 3" tail pipes if I did this.
 
I used TTI's. I had to modify slightly for the relocated springs. I have a stock tank though
 
rod7515 said:
I have a 66 Dart that I bought the TTI headers and the 3" x pipe. Those parts fit great. My springs are moved in 3" and when I called TTI about their tailpipes I was told that their 3" tailpipes would not work on any car with a spring relocation kit. I just made tailpipes yesterday using pieces and welding them together as I went. I ended up with them exiting just behind the rear tires. As for noise there was not a lot a difference with just mufflers then going to the tailpipes. If you want more detail let me know. Also if you decide to make your own pipes I found a place in maryland that has mandrel bent pieces that are much less money then buying from summit or jegs. Happy to pass that on as well.
Best of luck
Rod
View attachment 1714993076
Click to expand...
I know this is an old post, but I was wondering if i could see some side pics of the exhaust. i want to see how they look from the side.
Thank you.
 
The car is still not on the road yet so pics are limited on a side view but here is one that I have. Hope it helps.
DSCN0509.JPG

Rod
 
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