Which ARP Bolts for bolting up a 727 to a 440?

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rr4406pak said:
Just finished my 440 big block build and 727 trans.
Was going to bolt up the torque convertor to the flex plate and then mate the 727 to the 440 and figured I'd use good ARP bolts.
Are these the correct bolt kits I would need?:

1969 ARP 145-0901 ARP Bellhousing Bolt Kits | Summit Racing

ARP 240-7302 ARP Torque Converter Bolts | Summit Racing

Thanks
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Depends on what converter you have. The factory used 5/16 bolts. Some lower cost aftermarket converters use the 5/16. The better converters will use a 7/16 like you have linked to above.
 
Where ever you can use studs to hold the trans to the block.

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You can bottom studs in the hole with loctite and take advantage of all the threads in the part you are fastening to. Also when tightening you are using steel nut on steel stud threads . Otherwise you are spinning the steel bolt into cast iron threads that eventually wear and let go. How good are those threads in your block? Can you measure how wore they are ?

Also if the bolt tightens up in the threads or bottoms out before the part is tight how would you know. Studs are a no brainer. For the same reason you use them on aluminum. Or use "threads inserts/helicoils" where a stud cannot be used,
 
Makes sense to me.
Where would I find a “kit” of studs and nuts like this in the correct sizes that I’d need to do this?
Thanks!
 
Oldmanmopar said:
You can bottom studs in the hole with loctite and take advantage of all the threads in the part you are fastening to. Also when tightening you are using steel nut on steel stud threads . Otherwise you are spinning the steel bolt into cast iron threads that eventually wear and let go. How good are those threads in your block? Can you measure how wore they are ?

Also if the bolt tightens up in the threads or bottoms out before the part is tight how would you know. Studs are a no brainer. For the same reason you use them on aluminum. Or use "threads inserts/helicoils" where a stud cannot be used,
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Issue I see with studs like you're recommending is if replacing the engine without pulling the engine and trans together. If the angle of returning the engine is not correct it could hit the studs and damage them.
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
Issue I see with studs like you're recommending is if replacing the engine without pulling the engine and trans together. If the angle of returning the engine is not correct it could hit the studs and damage them.
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Look closely at the studs they have a ball on them to prevent cross threading. Also they help line up the trans. You won't damage the hardened threads with an aluminum trans. You'll need to come up with a better negative comment than that, I even have a stud on the distributor hold down.
1732626513152.png
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Look closely at the studs they have a ball on them to prevent cross threading. Also they help line up the trans. You won't damage the hardened threads with an aluminum trans. You'll need to come up with a better negative comment than that, I even have a stud on the distributor hold down.
View attachment 1716332297
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Negative comment? Expressing the concern I had apparently was invalid.
 
rr4406pak said:
Just finished my 440 big block build and 727 trans.
Was going to bolt up the torque convertor to the flex plate and then mate the 727 to the 440

Thanks
Click to expand...
Maybe I'm reading this wrong, bit Flexplate needs to be bolted to the back of the motor 1st
 
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