Which clutch is best, Borg and Beck or diaphragm?

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harrisonm

harrisonm

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I have always used diaphragm clutches. It just seems to me that 15 or so separate spring fingers in a diaphragm clutch are going to work better than three spring fingers in a Borg and Beck. I’m about ready to put a new clutch in my car after almost 20 years. I put a decent diaphragm clutch in it about 20 years ago when I switched from automatic for speed. I was planning on doing another diaphragm clutch, I just wanted to know what you guys thought.
 
I like a 3 finger clutch, I had many, and it's what they came with new. They made it through 5 year warranty and decades beyond.

I've driven diaphragms in mopars, I don't like how they function.
 
I like using what's factory correct. Usually, Mopars use the Borg and Beck style. Borg and Becks are usually "better" for performance, while diaphragm styles are usually "better" for ease of operation.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I like using what's factory correct. Usually, Mopars use the Borg and Beck style. Borg and Becks are usually "better" for performance, while diaphragm styles are usually "better" for ease of operation.
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Except axle U bolts :poke: :lol:
 
@harrisonm How much power in this car, what kind of driving?

You don't need a clutch that's so stiff it breaks the seat.
 
mopar head said:
I`ll never use another BnB, I like to keep the back of my seat attached:D
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If you've driven Mopars for a long time, then you've driven some B&B clutches, because as far "as I know", that's all Mopar used from the factory.
 
You need a 3500# Borg & Beck:rofl: Have to build them left leg muscles up in your old age. I found a 3200# Schiefer B&B that I put in my 68 GTS, Wiped out the cam on getting it running, so I never got to drive it. It was a brute though. I had to many Chevy friends that had the diaphragm PPs back in the day. I always preferred the B&B.
 
The B&B pressure plates are easily modified to add or remove springs.
 
I have always used a B&B on my 4 speed Mopars. A B&B can be rebuilt and you can change the pressure by changing the springs. A diaphragm style is a throw away. That said it is a lot easier on the leg. I've got a 3200 # in my Roadrunner and I love it. My GM buddies all run diaphram.
 
I did t have a problem with the B&B pressure plate BUT I will state that it can be a hard leg work out if you start graduating towards a race pressure plate. 2500lbs is a heavy load. 2800+lbs is a workout. If you get caught in traffic, your going to get tired.

The diaphragm pressure plate offer an easier pedal that I have found to like a lot. The removal the over center spring on the clutch pedal (up high under the dash) can be a pain to remove intact to reinstall later if you move back to a B&B pressure plate.

I like the B&B myself.
I don’t have a problem with ether.
 
The B&B also has the centrifugal effect (the harder you rev it the harder it grabs) that most diaphragm clutches don't, the same applies to long style clutches Ford used back in the day.
 
bcschief said:
The B&B also has the centrifugal effect (the harder you rev it the harder it grabs) that most diaphragm clutches don't, the same applies to long style clutches Ford used back in the day.
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To the point that diaphragm clutches at high rpm can refuse to reset.

For a mild street car, I prefer a diaphragm clutch. Is a more modern feel.
 
413 said:
@harrisonm How much power in this car, what kind of driving?

You don't need a clutch that's so stiff it breaks the seat.
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My 340 is at about 375HP with 3.55 gears. My clutch is supposed to be pretty much factory 340 specs. It might be a little stiffer than factory, but not much. The diaphragm has worked well, so I'll probably stick with that. All street driving. That is not to say that I don't light the tires up occasionally. It sounds like the B&B might be more than I need. Thanks for all the input.
 
The Clutches available on Brewers Site for Slantys and 273's are $800 dollar Diaphragms!
So, when I need a Replacement... Should I just take my old modified B&B and have it Rebuilt?
It's the 10" Version w/ the Special Scalloped Bolts that replaces the old 9 1/2" one.
(can't find them Anywhere now!)

b n b.jpg
 
I would have the one that you have rebuilt. We have a local shop here in Lincoln that rebuilds them.
eekvonzipper said:
The Clutches available on Brewers Site for Slantys and 273's are $800 dollar Diaphragms!
So, when I need a Replacement... Should I just take my old modified B&B and have it Rebuilt?
It's the 10" Version w/ the Special Scalloped Bolts that replaces the old 9 1/2" one.
(can't find them Anywhere now!)

View attachment 1716339908
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I use a Centerforce diaphragm clutch in my Roadrunner, and it easily takes all the abuse I give it. I like it. I’ve had many a 4 speed car with the B&B style clutch and they’ve always been a good clutch, I just happen to like the Centerforce more.

D451A31B-9B13-46F1-AF33-C45608415676.jpeg
 
cosgig said:
I use a Centerforce diaphragm clutch in my Roadrunner, and it easily takes all the abuse I give it. I like it. I’ve had many a 4 speed car with the B&B style clutch and they’ve always been a good clutch, I just happen to like the Centerforce more.

View attachment 1716340295
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That's a good clutch!
 
I'm running a McLeod Super Street Pro... It's a Diaphragm, the disc is half Organic & half ceramic... I was concerned about the ceramic being "grabby" but it's actually very smooth if driven normal but if you dump it there's no slipping, it bites & launches.... Rated at 500 ft/lbs of torque my little 340 will never hurt it....

The pedal is light, nothing like the B&B in my old Hemi Challenger.. I haven't tried shifting it past 6400 so I can't say it won't stick the pedal to the floor like OE clutches in GM products were known to do in the 60's.... But I suspect the technology has improved in the fifty years since then....
 
Other than knowing the basic differences between the designs, it seems to me the diaphragm type would provide more uniform loading...& wear... of the clutch plate, resulting in a smoother feel for the user.
 
AND NOW an annoying old story you guys may not believe. One day, long ago, some guy came into the parts store with what appeared to be a BB pressure plate and tossed it on the counter. IT JINGLED AND CLANKED??!!!

He says it's out of an AMC, I don't remember exactly which model, but here is how they work

THERE ARE NO SPRINGS AT ALL in the clutch pp assembly. The clutch linkage is REVERSED such that when you RELEASE the pedal (UP) to drive the car, A LARGE SPRING in the linkage actually PRESSED DOWN on the levers, and PUSHED THE PLATE against the disk. So the linkage action is bas-ackwards, and EVERY SECOND THAT THE CLUTCH IS ENGAGED, the linkage is STRESSING the T/O bearing and pushing DOWN on the levers to keep it engaged!!!!
 
I have a Centerforce Dual Friction 10.5 inch diaphragm clutch in my 65 Barracuda. The pedal pressure is much easier on my left knee than the B&B. Instead of removing the over-center spring, I replaced it with a lighter one. Feels great now. It has also lasted longer than any B&B I've ever had.

BUT: I used to speed shift my trans all the time. Loved doing it. The Centerforce bites so hard, though, that I no longer speed shift, racing or not, as it feels like it will rip out major parts of the drivetrain. Same for revving it up and dumping the clutch from a dead stop. If I were doing much bracket racing (I haven't taken this car to the strip in over two decades), I'd replace it.
 
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