remytherat
Well-Known Member
Stock mopar electronic ignition. Can I use a pertronix flame thrower ii coil (0.6ohm primary)? If so should I bypass the coil side of the ballast resistor?
Which coil?
- Thread starter remytherat
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Regardless of the coil used, you cannot bypass the ballast. If the ignition box sees a full 12V it will eventually burn out. I use a standard blue streak coil on mine and it works just fine. UC12-X is the part number.
remytherat
Well-Known Member
I was thinking of bypassing just to the coil, leaving the box connected through the other side of the 4 pin ballast
1969reddart
or is it Copper...
I use the Accel 8140 coil (1.4 ohm primary) with the stock ballast resistor - Factory electronic ignition.
Yeah. Do that then.
For the record...
If you originally had a 5 pin ECU you need the 4 post ballast.
If you originally had the 4 pin ECU you don't need a 4 pin ballast, as the ECU is internally regulated.
The 5th pin was the power to run some of the electronics.
The 4 pin did away with that.
Also if you changed out your 5 pin for a 4 pin ECU you don't need the 4 post ballast.
If you originally had a 5 pin ECU you need the 4 post ballast.
If you originally had the 4 pin ECU you don't need a 4 pin ballast, as the ECU is internally regulated.
The 5th pin was the power to run some of the electronics.
The 4 pin did away with that.
Also if you changed out your 5 pin for a 4 pin ECU you don't need the 4 post ballast.
If it was mine, and it originally had the 5 pin ballast, I'd get the 4 pin harness just to do away with that and convert to the 4 pin harness and two pin ballast. Those harnesses were sometimes a point of contention. I have a friend who found out the hard way.
You can plug a 4 pin into a 5 pin harness, the 5th pin just sits there and is not attached to anything.
You can not go the other way.
Right. I realize that. But the original 5 pin harnesses had a propensity for issues. I've seen several myself. I would just change it. Just my personal opinion. But we all know I'm mentally ill.
Aren't we all... We are into Mopars!
I did not realize the wiring issue as you described.
I thought you were saying that you had to replace the harness if you went to a 4 pin.
My mental illness is missing reading posts among others?
Oh no. I've seen several instances where "something" in those original 5 pin harnesses shorted and melted that harness. I don't know if it was a coincidence or not, but I've seen several in junkyards like that and I had a friend who had one fail......although he admitted he "mightta" done something to make it happen. lolAren't we all... We are into Mopars!
I did not realize the wiring issue as you described.
I thought you were saying that you had to replace the harness if you went to a 4 pin.
My mental illness is missing reading posts among others?
Using a 0.6 ohm coil, with or without the bal res, will create issues. Without the bal res, it will probably take out the power trans in/on the ECU from current overload.
The ECU is designed to use a 1.5 ohm coil with a 0.5 ohm BR.
You could use the 0.6 ohm coil & improve your ign system at the same time by eliminating the ECU & bal resistors & using a GM HEI module. Simple, easy, better, pics on the net.
The ECU is designed to use a 1.5 ohm coil with a 0.5 ohm BR.
You could use the 0.6 ohm coil & improve your ign system at the same time by eliminating the ECU & bal resistors & using a GM HEI module. Simple, easy, better, pics on the net.
You have to use a coil that has a 1.5 ohm .6 is for the pertronix 2 only and the .32 is Pet III and the gm set up only. Have to have the components matched properly to work well and stay working.
Just fyi
Just fyi
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Is the Accel coil #8140 compatible with the blue 7500 hi rev ignition box like this?
1.5 ohm coil around a .8-1 ohm ballast works well with them. Not sure of the Accel ohms on that. The higher the resistance the less RPM max usually.
Accel lists that coil as 1.4 ohm.
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