Which fan are you a "fan" of?

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ir3333 said:
... at least half of that rad is blocked ?
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Yea, this shows up over and over. Fine at low speeds/low power in traffic but becomes a real problem at high power outputs and speeds, where flow is substantially choked. Sounds like 1970-dart had to ditch the shroud.... that was lucky IMO!
 
1970-dart said:
i have a warmed up 360 and i bought this radiator and electric fan setup but the fan would not fit on the front side of the radiator because the water pump was to long and it hit. So i put the reg 4 blade steel fan on like normal and then the electric fan on the front side as backup and hooked it to a thermostatically controlled switch and set it at 190 so the electric will come on and off as needed all by itself.

I only hear it come on when im in traffic on hot days and it usually cycles a time (or once in a blue moon twice )after i shut the car off. I still need to fabricate a shroud for it but it does not over heat now i just wanna do it for looks and safety and don't wanna chop up the factory plastic one i have .




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How much and where did you get it? !!!
Jeff
 
MrJLR said:
How much and where did you get it? !!!
Jeff
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Tried to get the radiator from challanger Gary from here but he don't get on much anymore but I wish I could have hit in touch ( please try him ) because when he did get back in touch his price was very comparable to the one I got off fleabay.

If I had to do it again I would have not got the electric fan/shroud and radiator as a kit because I can't use the shroud and fan as intended but I kinda like the way I have it set up now. It's kinda stock with the steel blade fan and the electric as a backup.

I paid like 350.00 for the radiator/fan and shroud as a set and like 40.00 for the electric fan thermostat control.
 
I have used 2 stainless flex fans in the past and both ended up with blade cracks; took a few 10k's of miles. Fiberglass blades had some deterioration. Never personally have had a standard or plastic fan blade problem.
 
66340SEDAN said:
Not sure why people add bigger aftermarket aluminum radiators to there cars, especially when COPPER cools better....I have a factory 22" 66 A-body rad in my 66 Valiant, I had it re-cored with a 2 CORE high flow efficiency core and it works great! My 340 engine has 400 HP, no shroud and a stock 4 blade fan, Flow Kooler water pump and that's it, rarely ever gets over 190 and that's even in the upper 90's with high humidity in the summer rush hour traffic....and the best thing of all, it looks good and fits like Ma Mopar intended....:glasses7:
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Love it...Nice early round top 22" factory radiator Thats how you do it !
Oh, and while we are at it, Flow Kooler water pumps are the ticket.
Do this, with the little 4 blader, and your good.
Nice Keith !

While we are on this subject...To the original poster.
Do you have a 6 blade or an 8 blade water pump ?
 
It was quicker to order the one I did than it was to get mine fixed ( nobody all that local that I could find at the time). The shroud would not fit in my case so I ditched it. But I think it would have been ok settings it did not sit flat on the face of the radiator.

The shroud stuck up some so i believe it would have sucked air across and through the whole radiator before passing through the fan. But I can't say for sure because I never got a chance to use it anyway lol.

The original radiator I had ( one from the factory v-8 74 dart) blew apart and needs to be completely rebuilt. But originally I planned on fixing it and trying it back on the car but the set up I have bolted right in with no mods and I just need to figure out a shroud if I keep what I got.
 
mopowers said:
Wow. I had no idea. I guess you learn something every day. Where did you hear that?
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MoPar says to use it because it is the set up that moves the most air and it is used on all there performance packages. After personally having cooling issues years back, and testing out several 4-6-7-8 blade fans of steel, plastic, electric & fixed units, the MP Viscous fan package proved to me on start up that it moves a hurricane of air and for certainly kept the engine/car cool.

I read one mag article that it moved 4,000cfm. I don't know how they came up with that. I'm a motorhead, not a scientist. I just simply use what works and that has always worked for me no matter what the driving condition was, what temp it was outside, multi levels of stress the engine/car was under. I have not driven a stock engines hot rod since I first purchased one.

I did start having issues with cooling with an electric fan on that just for fun Duster with the 318. And that was a stock block with bolt ons and a cam. The electric fan was a joke and it was on me.

ALLWAYS USE A SHROUD!
 
In my case, the original radiator is leaking and needs completely rebuilt. My radiator guy told me that he was going to lose a job but recommended I not rebuild the one I have and to purchase an aluminum one unless I needed a factory original and wanted to pay for it. In my far from original Barracuda with a 360 in it, less dollars makes more sense, as long as it works good, like RRR was getting at.

I appreciate all of the opinions.
 
1970-dart said:
The shroud would not fit in my case so I ditched it. But I think it would have been ok settings it did not sit flat on the face of the radiator. The shroud stuck up some so i believe it would have sucked air across and through the whole radiator before passing through the fan. But I can't say for sure because I never got a chance to use it anyway lol.
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The issue with that shroud are:
1) A pretty small air exit hole
2) The surface sets off the rad surface but the flat shape means that a LOT of the air has to make a 90 degree turn and then all cram into that smaller exit hole and then through the electric fan structure. All that is a very restrictive to high speed, high volume air flow, which is what you need in highway use.

Look at the Mopar Performance and Mancini racing shrouds; the closed off areas are small and the turns of the air don't have to be 90 degrees.
 
nm9stheham said:
The issue with that shroud are:
1) A pretty small air exit hole
2) The surface sets off the rad surface but the flat shape means that a LOT of the air has to make a 90 degree turn and then all cram into that smaller exit hole and then through the electric fan structure. All that is a very restrictive to high speed, high volume air flow, which is what you need in highway use.

Look at the Mopar Performance and Mancini racing shrouds; the closed off areas are small and the turns of the air don't have to be 90 degrees.
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Exactly
 
nm9stheham said:
The issue with that shroud are:
1) A pretty small air exit hole
2) The surface sets off the rad surface but the flat shape means that a LOT of the air has to make a 90 degree turn and then all cram into that smaller exit hole and then through the electric fan structure. All that is a very restrictive to high speed, high volume air flow, which is what you need in highway use.

Look at the Mopar Performance and Mancini racing shrouds; the closed off areas are small and the turns of the air don't have to be 90 degrees.
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Rubber one way flap valves on the shroud allow more are to pass through it at high speed. I myself like a mechanical fan set up. I've uses Flex lite plastic fans on some applications and have had good results. Also running dual fans opens up the shroud to less restriction by allowing the air a straighter path. If you buy cheap electric fans, then expect trouble, they are weak and don't move much air. Your better off going to a salvage yard and getting some that will fit from a regular passenger car. OEM stuff is designed to be reliable and efficient.
I've seen single electric fans off Mercedes that a small child could ride around like a Hovercraft when it's run in reverse :) Be warned, bigger better fans pull more amps, you will need larger wiring and relays to use them, May also need a higher output Alternator.
 
'66Cuda said:
My new radiator won't fit in my '66 Barracuda, that has a 360, .060" over (thinking a tendency to run warm until proven otherwise), in it. The 360 has a viscous clutch fan on it and they stick wayyyyy out there in terms of a 360 in an early A body. I need to do something different. I lack around 3/4" of an inch or so of clearing. My options as I see them are a bolt on type flex fan with no clutch, or an electric fan. I installed a Painless wiring kit, and still have the wires under the hood. An electric fan may be a "breeze" to install. Is a no clutch, bolt on flex type a bad idea? Do I need an electric fan?

Thanks FABO. I know I have been wearing you out lately, but I'm close, dang it!:blob:
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Brother I do the same thing
 
RustyRatRod said:
Because a comparable in size and cooling ability copper/brass radiator to an aluminum one costs two to sometimes three times as much.

It's a disposable world, Keith. Nobody wants to get anything repaired anymore. We have a local radiator shop, Ben's Macon Radiator. Been in business since probably about the 40s. They, along with the rest of that industrial block are struggling badly.

But you're 100% correct. Copper/brass is more efficient at cooling than aluminum. I had Ben's recore a slant six radiator in my 65 Valiant that I put a very hot 360 in. They put a 4 row core in it. I think I remember it was 300 bucks even. That thing never saw above 185. Not once. Not even in 100 degree Georgia heat with 70% and more humidity.

You can preach it all you want, but people won't listen. There are some high quality aluminum radiators out there......Griffin comes to mind. But they ain't no 100 buck chinkesium. They are nice and they will cool good.

The imported aluminum radiators are a crap shoot. We've all seen a lot of them right here that did a good job and some of the same ones that could not.

I have really never understood why people have trouble with overheating. Something I have never experienced. Just use the right stuff and you'll be fine. Sure as hell is hard getting people to understand that though.
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My 340 with 4:10 gears runs around 185. With that being said I'm trying to find info homemade base plate to seal to the Dual snorkel and, the part number for a a fluid clutch type fan
Wondering, if I Could?remember reading about it in the 90s in my Mopar Performance Engine books
 
Ironracer said:
My 340 with 4:10 gears runs around 185. With that being said I'm trying to find info homemade base plate to seal to the Dual snorkel and, the part number for a a fluid clutch type fan
Wondering, if I Could?remember reading about it in the 90s in my Mopar Performance Engine books
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Yeah those bad boys are tough to find now. They ain't made um in probably two decades. I have one, but I ain't turnin loose of it. lol
 
Ironracer said:
My 340 with 4:10 gears runs around 185. With that being said I'm trying to find info homemade base plate to seal to the Dual snorkel and, the part number for a a fluid clutch type fan
Wondering, if I Could?remember reading about it in the 90s in my Mopar Performance Engine books
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Oh the part number is P4120758, btw. Mancini has what they call a "Mancini Viscous Fan Package like it's the same thing. It's not. Their fan is symmetrical. The MP fan is not. It has staggered blades that were proven to move more air and be quiet doing it, all while having less drag. Good luck finding one.
 
Ironracer said:
My 340 with 4:10 gears runs around 185. With that being said I'm trying to find info homemade base plate to seal to the Dual snorkel and, the part number for a a fluid clutch type fan
Wondering, if I Could?remember reading about it in the 90s in my Mopar Performance Engine books
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Hayden 2947 with the Mopar fan blade.
 
I bought a 7 blade fan & clutch from an 80s dodge truck at local pick & pull. Fan looks the same as the 70s versions. Cost about $30 for both and a pulley & shroud.
 
I use a 2007 Chevy HHR fan on my Barracuda....It fits a 22" radiator perfectly, flows a crap ton of air, and only cost's about 50 bucks new through RockAuto.
 
What’s that Ford Taurus set up that’s used a bunch?
 
Mike69cuda said:
I bought a 7 blade fan & clutch from an 80s dodge truck at local pick & pull. Fan looks the same as the 70s versions. Cost about $30 for both and a pulley & shroud.
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Down here those Vehicles don't even make it to the Pick-n-Pull the people freaking horde them
 
Johnny Dart said:
Hayden 2947 with the Mopar fan blade.
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Much appreciated on that! Thank You! I've got an older Flex fan on there now so it's probably not cheap Chinese junk but after reading what I've read on here I'm thinking I could get a few ponies switching to the other fan and it would probably be safer... any idea what fan blade i should use?
 
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