Which Rockers are Best???

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Treblig

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I have two sets of adjustable rockers for the 318 stroker I plan to build. I'm not sure which set would be the best to use on this build. I DO NOT plan any high RPMs or drag racing. Just a healthy street motor...NO HIGH LIFT CAM.

Here are some pics. The first 5 pics are the rockers with what look like bronze rocker arms that have been ground down for bigger valve springs, locking nuts (jam nuts) on the adjusters, springs in between the rockers and no banana grooves. The last 5 pics are the other set, they have banana grooves, spacers between the rockers, no jam nuts on the adjusters and what look like steel (cast iron) rocker arms. Also the banana grove set seems to have some wear (slight damage, see pics) on a few of the valve tip surfaces. Not being a Mopar expert I don't know which set is best to use.


I need to sell the extra set for money to buy stroker parts.

thanks for the help!!!
Treblig
 

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I would take the banana grooved shafts and put the bushed rockers on them and sell them to me. Just fooling use the above and sell the rest. Use the solid spacers if they line up good with your valves.
 
forgive my ignorance, are the spring shafts off a big block? Use the spacer ones and get the tips resurfaces at a valve grinder, they can do it. The jamb nuts are optional as some stock adjusters were lock nut free, an interference thread, ie were very hard to turn by themselves.
 
Looks like these have seen some serious use and modifications. For what you describe as your build stock stamped steel will be fine and you can use stock pushrods and save $$$. The toes on some of these will need to be reground and the balls look scuffed too.
 
I would take the banana grooved shafts and put the bushed rockers on them and sell them to me. Just fooling use the above and sell the rest. Use the solid spacers if they line up good with your valves.

I appreciate the humor...I was wondering if I could mix and match?? You mentioned bushed rockers, do you mean the bronze ones that have been ground for bigger valves? I hadn't checked to see if they were bushed?? On closer inspection it almost looks like someone may have plugged the hole that was on top of the bronze rockers and drilled a hole under the arm where it was ground for clearance??? I was hoping someone who has seen this type of set up before could shed some light on these rockers.
Also wondering if one type of locking adjusting screw is better??
Has anyone else seen this type of set-up??
Thanks "Mod5v",

Treblig
 
forgive my ignorance, are the spring shafts off a big block? Use the spacer ones and get the tips resurfaces at a valve grinder, they can do it. The jamb nuts are optional as some stock adjusters were lock nut free, an interference thread, ie were very hard to turn by themselves.


I don't really know if the spring shafts are off a big block. Wouldn't the shaft be longer...I'll compare the length. Like I said I'm not a Mopar expert. You said the jam nut is optional but the banana groove set has a bolt head on the adjustment screw so you couldn't use a jam nut anyway....or do you mean on the bronze set??
Spacers are better than springs...got it!!
thanks,
Treblig
 
Looks like these have seen some serious use and modifications. For what you describe as your build stock stamped steel will be fine and you can use stock pushrods and save $$$. The toes on some of these will need to be reground and the balls look scuffed too.


mguner, hadn't even noticed the wear (damage) on the balls?? I don't think they can be reground like the valve tip ends?? I wanted to use adj rockers because I might have the heads cut for better compression (9.2:1). I wanted to be able to get good valve adjustment using the 360 heads and larger valves.

PS - I have the original set of stamped rockers off my 69 318 (still running in the car).

thanks,
Treblig
 
mguner, hadn't even noticed the wear (damage) on the balls?? I don't think they can be reground like the valve tip ends?? I wanted to use adj rockers because I might have the heads cut for better compression (9.2:1). I wanted to be able to get good valve adjustment using the 360 heads and larger valves.

PS - I have the original set of stamped rockers off my 69 318 (still running in the car).

thanks,
Treblig

If you have the factory pushrods that came with these shafts they are for solid lifters so you will have to buy pushrods anyway to fit hydraulics. Ball ended rods are much cheaper than ball and cup type. Hot Rod did a lifter comparison recently on a big block mopar and there wasn't a spits worth of difference adjusted barely off the bottom of lifter travel vs barely off the top. Depending on how much you mill the heads there may be no issues.
 
If you have the factory pushrods that came with these shafts they are for solid lifters so you will have to buy pushrods anyway to fit hydraulics. Ball ended rods are much cheaper than ball and cup type. Hot Rod did a lifter comparison recently on a big block mopar and there wasn't a spits worth of difference adjusted barely off the bottom of lifter travel vs barely off the top. Depending on how much you mill the heads there may be no issues.


I have the factory push rods still in my Barracuda but I really wanted adj rockers. I also have a set of push rods that came with one of the adj rocker sets. I just am not sure if the damaged balls on the rockers will cause a problem.

Treblig
 
from the looks of those I would really consider buying new roller rockers.

Because I'm not building a high horsepower engine (325-350 HP) nor am I going to the drag strip I would think that roller rockers wouldn't be worth it??? I will have a hydraulic cam (a little beefed up) but I don't plan on revving over 5800-6000 RPM.
But I appreciate the concern, I will surely inspect the rockers a little closer now that you folks have seen things that I hadn't looked for. I guess I could put the bronze rockers on the banana shaft and also use the solid spacers??? I was hoping somebody would tell me if the bronze rockers hadn't been cut too much. I wasn't impressed with the grinding job???
Treblig
 
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