Which type of oil to use

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JozefJ said:
Hi guys,

I'm running a 318 V8 in a '73 dart sport.
Come April I will be changing the oil of the car. The temperature in our area (Netherlands) is between 5 and 30 degrees Celsius during the period in which the car will be out of the winter storage.

I see that 20w50 is the recommend oil type. Would that be the way to go? Or do you guys have other reccomenations?

I know that it should be non-synthetic and with a relatively high level of zinc.

Thanks for thinking along!
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The Chrysler and Chevrolet Racing manuals both stated that SAE 30 oil resulted in the least wear, back in the day. I used to, and still do, run 20w50 or SAE 30 Valvoline Racing oil, VR1, in all my cars from 1966-2001 except in the winter. The lightest oil I will ever run is 10w30 even in the 5.7 Hemi's we own. Zinc is the key and changing your oil and filter every 3,000 miles. You will never have an oil related failure, I have multiple cars with 250,000 + miles on them and they still run pretty much like new. They used to say synthetic oil was not compatible with old seals, I could not say if that is true or not. With my self imposed 3,000 mile limit per oil change it does not pay to run synthetic, except in the 5.7 Hemis. I figure it is cheap insurance. If 20w50 is so thick, how do I get mpg so high that most can not believe it? Something does not add up in my mind...
 
All you 20/50 lovers, you car will do the same with 10/30, and just do it better. ET slip and MPG. Do you know your bearing clearances, if not you should.

Now an engine with 350+ horsepower probably won't sound or feel different unless you are drag racing it, then the time slip will tell you the difference.
 
I'm mainly interested in less wear, I experimented in the 70's and 80's with all kinds of brands and weights in a used 64 Polara Poly 318 that used oil. Valvoline Racing 20w50 was the hands down winner and actually lowered oil consumption to less than a quart in 3,000 miles. Since then it has gone into everything from a 273 Commando, 68 383 HP, 73 Dart 318, 96 ACR Neon 2.0, 2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0. I don't care how many miles I put on a vehicle since I know it will run forever. I see very little wear in lifters, valve guides and rod bearings. You guys can run whatever oil and change it when you want.
 
Here in Australia the go to oil for classics is Penrite HPR30 20w-60. It's a high zinc 20w-50 oil with some marketing "extra 10" bullshit for added protection.
This was recommended to me by 2 different engine builders who presumably know what they built and what oil to use.
It's hot and humid here, think Miami Florida.
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413 said:
All you 20/50 lovers, you car will do the same with 10/30, and just do it better. ET slip and MPG. Do you know your bearing clearances, if not you should.

Now an engine with 350+ horsepower probably won't sound or feel different unless you are drag racing it, then the time slip will tell you the difference.
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Even 1000 plus HP engines can see a difference with thinner oil on a dyno. You'd likely never feel the difference, but as you eluded to, it's there.
 
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