Which way does rotor turn in the distributor?

[Witchboard]

Sorry for the ignorant question, but I just replaced the cap, rotor and cables on my distributor and wired it up per the firing order. Can't get the engine to fire, and then it dawned on me, I don't know which way the distributor rotates. Clockwise or counter-clockwise on a slant 6?

 

[rumblefish360]

The way the vacuum advance canister points, is the opposite way

 

[George Jets]

Small Blocks turn clockwise as you are looking down on them.

Bump the key with the rotor on and see which way it advances.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Sorry for the ignorant question, but I just replaced the cap, rotor and cables on my distributor and wired it up per the firing order. Can't get the engine to fire, and then it dawned on me, I don't know which way the distributor rotates. Clockwise or counter-clockwise on a slant 6?

The slant 6 distributor turns clockwise.

 

[Witchboard]

Thanks guys. I have it going clockwise, but I also just rebuilt the carburetor, so could be more than one thing. Here's a pic of the distributor.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks guys. I have it going clockwise, but I also just rebuilt the carburetor, so could be more than one thing. Here's a pic of the distributor.

View attachment 1715898697

Are you certain the firing order is right? 1-5-3-6-2-4 Number one should be at about the 5 o'clock position.

 

[Witchboard]

Are you certain the firing order is right? 1-5-3-6-2-4 Number one should be at about the 5 o'clock position.

Yup. I installed the wires in that order and number one is closest to the vacuum advance and marked on the cap.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I assume you are certain the distributor is timed correctly?

 

[Witchboard]

I assume you are certain the distributor is timed correctly?

I doubt that it is. I had to remove the distributor to replace the vacuum advance. I marked where the rotor was when I pulled it and reinstalled it in the same place. I plan on timing it once I got it up and running.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I doubt that it is. I had to remove the distributor to replace the vacuum advance. I marked where the rotor was when I pulled it and reinstalled it in the same place. I plan on timing it once I got it up and running.

I meant physically installing the distributor gear in the correct place, not having the distributor turned to the correct timing. Two different things.

 

[Witchboard]

I meant physically installing the distributor gear in the correct place, not having the distributor turned to the correct timing. Two different things.

When I removed the cap, the rotor was pointed exactly at the wire coming into the distributor. When I reinstalled it to where it was pointed at the same place. Sorry, I don't know what the wire is called. It's not the wire that goes to the cap, but the other one.

Condenser lead maybe?

 

[RustyRatRod]

When I removed the cap, the rotor was pointed exactly at the wire coming into the distributor. When I reinstalled it to where it was pointed at the same place. Sorry, I don't know what the wire is called. It's not the wire that goes to the cap, but the other one.

Condenser lead maybe?

Sounds like you stabbed it right back in where it was. What's the problem you're having with it?

 

[Witchboard]

Sounds like you stabbed it right back in where it was. What's the problem you're having with it?

I don't know if there is a problem with it. Just isn't starting now the I've got it back in, so I was just making sure I put the wires in the right order since I wasn't sure which way the rotor turned. I'll try it again when the battery is charged back up.

 

[sam69sat]

 

[Garrett Ellison]

You mentioned condenser lead, I'm guessing it's a points distributor? In an electronic distributor installing the reluctor upside down will cause a no start condition, just want to clarify that's not a potential issue from changing the vacuum advance unit.

 

[RustyRatRod]

View attachment 1715898742

That's incorrect. I hate that diagram.

 

[sam69sat]

That's incorrect. I hate that diagram.

Is there something wrong with it? I'll delete it if you post a better one.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Is there something wrong with it? I'll delete it if you post a better one.

Yes, #1 plug wire is in the wrong place. It should be at the 5 o'clock position, not 6. Might seem like splitting hairs, but if someone follows that diagram, they'll have a problem. This diagram ain't my favorite either, but it at least has the wires about right on the cap.

 

[RustyRatRod]

The problem is that almost EVERY inline six has the same firing order, so you see a LOT of generic diagrams online.

 

[67Dart273]

Let's start with some basics. Do you have spark, and how exactly did you check for that?
Do you have a timing light and have you tried it "on the starter?"

Are you familiar with adjusting points? Any possibility the points are misajusted, or a mis-positioned wire connection is shorting them at the terminal? Are you sure the condenser is "good?"

Also, on a breaker points engine, you can easily set "static" timing in such a way that the engine should just fire right up, and be close "in time."

Rotate the engine until the rotor is "coming up" to the no1 tower. STOP the engine while watching for the timing marks, with the marks set at either where you want the timing set, or maybe 5 BTDC

Now either put a test lamp on the coil NEG, or use a spark gap tester hooked to the coil secondary wire. With the key "on" and the dist. loose, rotate the dist CW which is RETARD. Slowly rotate the dist CCW from there which is "towards advanced." At some point (carefully, slowly) while moving the dist body, either the test lamp should light, or you should get one single "snap" spark from the secondary test gap.

At that point, install the no1 wire wherever it is that the rotor is pointing, and run the firing order around from there.

 

[krazykuda]

The slant 6 distributor turns clockwise.

Unless it's below the Equator, then they turn counter-clockwise....

 

[Mattax]

In the photo I'm seeing
a magnetic pickup connection,
red painted sprak plug tube engine.

So earlier engine in later car, or early engine and car with later distributor and presumably the ECU wired in.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Good eye Mattax, I was looking for that and on the small screen and couldn't spot it. Was the reluctor wheel removed when replacing the vacuum advance? If so, remove it and turn it over and see if it fires.

 

[Witchboard]

You mentioned condenser lead, I'm guessing it's a points distributor? In an electronic distributor installing the reluctor upside down will cause a no start condition, just want to clarify that's not a potential issue from changing the vacuum advance unit.

Good eye Mattax, I was looking for that and on the small screen and couldn't spot it. Was the reluctor wheel removed when replacing the vacuum advance? If so, remove it and turn it over and see if it fires.

I did not remove the reluctor wheel, I just pulled it up far enough on the shaft to lift up the part where the vacuum advance pin was installed.

Let's start with some basics. Do you have spark, and how exactly did you check for that?
Do you have a timing light and have you tried it "on the starter?"

Are you familiar with adjusting points? Any possibility the points are misajusted, or a mis-positioned wire connection is shorting them at the terminal? Are you sure the condenser is "good?"

Also, on a breaker points engine, you can easily set "static" timing in such a way that the engine should just fire right up, and be close "in time."

Rotate the engine until the rotor is "coming up" to the no1 tower. STOP the engine while watching for the timing marks, with the marks set at either where you want the timing set, or maybe 5 BTDC

Now either put a test lamp on the coil NEG, or use a spark gap tester hooked to the coil secondary wire. With the key "on" and the dist. loose, rotate the dist CW which is RETARD. Slowly rotate the dist CCW from there which is "towards advanced." At some point (carefully, slowly) while moving the dist body, either the test lamp should light, or you should get one single "snap" spark from the secondary test gap.

At that point, install the no1 wire wherever it is that the rotor is pointing, and run the firing order around from there.

I'm going to dig into it tonight after work. I ran the battery down yesterday messing with it, so it's been charging.

In the photo I'm seeing
a magnetic pickup connection,
red painted sprak plug tube engine.

So earlier engine in later car, or early engine and car with later distributor and presumably the ECU wired in.

I think it's a later engine in an earlier car with an ECU. Numbers on engine indicate that it's a 1973 installed in a 1964 Barracuda. I can take a pic of the ECU if there's a need or want.

 

[Witchboard]

Okay, so just an update. I was turning the crank over by hand with a wrench and noticed the rotor wasn't moving at all. I thought that was weird, so I pulled the distributor again... Can't win for losing I guess.