They get really brittle from heat and age. I have some new ones if needed PM me.
Which way does rotor turn in the distributor?
- Thread starter Witchboard
- Start date
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Witchboard
Well-Known Member
Got my replacement gear in today. So... one last ignorant question. Any body know what mark is supposed to be 0 degrees?
You're going to have to verify it with a piston stop. Looks like somebody has added a lot of indented marks on the balancer and also painted them.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
My guess is that TDC would be the one with the most paint on it. Also you are going to want to be sure you are on NUMBER 1 COMPRESSION stroke. There are two ways to do that
1...Least popular, if you happen to have the rocker cover off say, to check valve adjustment, rotatee the engine to the TDC mark and look at the number one valves. If they are both closed, you are on compression. If they are both nearly equally open (split overlap) rotate the crank 1 turn
2....Second way is remove no1 plug. On a slant you cannot generally use your finger, so rig a compression gauge or other means (whistle) to tell when compression "comes". Rotate engine until you JUST start to get compression, the rotate until the marks come up. DO NOT set the wheel on TDC but rather WHERE IT IS that you want the initial timing to be, 5, 8 BTC, whatever. Then set the dist in GENTLY, and adjust the timing. NOTICE that there is a second adjustment under the dist. on a slant. One at the block, one under the dist. Two slotted holes
If you have points, rotate dist "retard" (CW) and gently rotate dist "advanced" (CCW) until points just break. If you have breakerless, adjust so the reluctor is in the middle of the pickup. This should be close enough to start.
1...Least popular, if you happen to have the rocker cover off say, to check valve adjustment, rotatee the engine to the TDC mark and look at the number one valves. If they are both closed, you are on compression. If they are both nearly equally open (split overlap) rotate the crank 1 turn
2....Second way is remove no1 plug. On a slant you cannot generally use your finger, so rig a compression gauge or other means (whistle) to tell when compression "comes". Rotate engine until you JUST start to get compression, the rotate until the marks come up. DO NOT set the wheel on TDC but rather WHERE IT IS that you want the initial timing to be, 5, 8 BTC, whatever. Then set the dist in GENTLY, and adjust the timing. NOTICE that there is a second adjustment under the dist. on a slant. One at the block, one under the dist. Two slotted holes
If you have points, rotate dist "retard" (CW) and gently rotate dist "advanced" (CCW) until points just break. If you have breakerless, adjust so the reluctor is in the middle of the pickup. This should be close enough to start.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Something you might keep in mind for dist. rotation On any older engine (not EFI) which uses a distributor with an advance system, you can easily tell which way it rotates. Remove the cap and twist the rotor. One or the other direction, (slant six will move CW) you can rotate the rotor a small amount against a spring. When released, it will spring back. (slant springs back CCW) This works on any engine of this nature.
On Chryslers built after 1960, everything turns CW except B/RB wedge engines and 426 hemi. I cannot speak for flatheads, I've never fiddled with one. Early hemis and Poly also CW
On Chryslers built after 1960, everything turns CW except B/RB wedge engines and 426 hemi. I cannot speak for flatheads, I've never fiddled with one. Early hemis and Poly also CW
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