WHO HAS A RMS SUSPENSION ?

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The 68 in my Avatar has the. Complete RMS suspension with a power rack. I love it. Makes header fitment a breeze. The PS has a much firmer feel than the mopar. I also have Wilwood discs.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
The 68 in my Avatar has the. Complete RMS suspension with a power rack. I love it. Makes header fitment a breeze. The PS has a much firmer feel than the mopar. I also have Wilwood discs.
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do you also have the rear suspension kit ?
 
I’ve ran the 002/003 SS spring set up on many A bodies over the years with great success. Weather a race car or street car. Call me old fashion.
 
I have the front suspension only. No complaints at all. I have a lot of miles on it. I wore the the bushings out in it and he sent me new ones no charge as they are under warranty even several years later. My sone blew the power rack seals out doing excessive cornering (his fault as my pump is a bit oversized). Bill got me going quickly with the repair. The rack the manufacturer sent me had metric rods on it and Bill sent me the correct ones at no charge.
Top notch customer service. I would stay away from magnum force.
Rear I have Firm Feel leafs -1” with Bilstein shocks.
 
cawley said:
Anyone running a rear RMS suspension ? Pros cons ?
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I have one on my 1973 Duster. The Dana 60 was already installed when I changed over to the RMS 4 link. I have only faced adjustment issues with the assembly. That being said the race shop I use for alignment and adjustments strongly feels I should dump the Viking coil overs and go with QA1....their preference and "proven" for their racing applications.
 
Lgs said:
I have one on my 1973 Duster. The Dana 60 was already installed when I changed over to the RMS 4 link. I have only faced adjustment issues with the assembly. That being said the race shop I use for alignment and adjustments strongly feels I should dump the Viking coil overs and go with QA1....their preference and "proven" for their racing applications.
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does that mean your having trouble aligning it or that everything went in smooth and just need an alignment? not that you asked, but i wouldn't dump the shocks just because they don't like them.
P.S. :welcome:
 
kursplat said:
does that mean your having trouble aligning it or that everything went in smooth and just need an alignment? not that you asked, but i wouldn't dump the shocks just because they don't like them.
P.S. :welcome:
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No problem with alignment. The needed adjustments have been to do with ride height. Since the system is so new, the car needs to get some miles to settle in and then be looked at again to make any further adjustments. Regarding the shocks, I agree and not interested in throwing money away. The Vikings are brand new and no reason to change them out now.

By reference, I also have a complete RMS front suspension and having major leaking problems with the racks - plural. Posted a message on this subject and waiting to see responses. Bill Reilly has been very good to work with, BUT the leaking still continues after now three racks and a 4th by another manufacturer.
 
Lgs said:
No problem with alignment. The needed adjustments have been to do with ride height. Since the system is so new, the car needs to get some miles to settle in and then be looked at again to make any further adjustments. Regarding the shocks, I agree and not interested in throwing money away. The Vikings are brand new and no reason to change them out now.

By reference, I also have a complete RMS front suspension and having major leaking problems with the racks - plural. Posted a message on this subject and waiting to see responses. Bill Reilly has been very good to work with, BUT the leaking still continues after now three racks and a 4th by another manufacturer.
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My rack blew with too much pressure on it. I got a mustang II RACK it’s the same setup direct fit just not as shiny. From Autozone. $125
 
loganscuda said:
My rack blew with too much pressure on it. I got a mustang II RACK it’s the same setup direct fit just not as shiny. From Autozone. $125
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Tried the Flaming River and Carbone (this one blew yesterday within 30 feet). Now going to try either a TCI or Detroit Speed or both...
 
I ordered the rear kit. With the stock location (not inboard) I ordered it with the ride tech shocks & stock height. It says it gives you 3/4 of an inch inner tire clearance more than the leaf springs.
 
Lgs said:
I have one on my 1973 Duster. The Dana 60 was already installed when I changed over to the RMS 4 link. I have only faced adjustment issues with the assembly. That being said the race shop I use for alignment and adjustments strongly feels I should dump the Viking coil overs and go with QA1....their preference and "proven" for their racing applications.
Click to expand...
did you keep the same size tire or did you put on a bigger size ?
 
loganscuda said:
I have the front suspension only. No complaints at all. I have a lot of miles on it. I wore the the bushings out in it and he sent me new ones no charge as they are under warranty even several years later. My sone blew the power rack seals out doing excessive cornering (his fault as my pump is a bit oversized). Bill got me going quickly with the repair. The rack the manufacturer sent me had metric rods on it and Bill sent me the correct ones at no charge.
Top notch customer service. I would stay away from magnum force.
Rear I have Firm Feel leafs -1” with Bilstein shocks.
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This makes me laugh.
No complaints except 3 problems that don't happen with a torsion bar setup.
A guy I know had to replace the rear Heim joints after less than 5000 miles.
This stuff does look nice though.
 
cawley said:
did you keep the same size tire or did you put on a bigger size ?
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I was able to go to a bigger tire - now 275 / 40 - 17. I also ended up using a spacer to center the tire as it was rubbing on the inner fender well. I did not tub the car although certainly thought about it....
 
Kern Dog said:
This makes me laugh.
No complaints except 3 problems that don't happen with a torsion bar setup.
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i'm wondering what "excessive cornering" is...the way i drive, that pretty much applies every time i'm in the car :steering:
 
Lgs said:
I was able to go to a bigger tire - now 275 / 40 - 17. I also ended up using a spacer to center the tire as it was rubbing on the inner fender well. I did not tub the car although certainly thought about it....
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is your axle housing factory width ?
 
I have the street lynx installed in my 66 Barracuda. I went with the Viking coil overs. Super happy with the feel of the car, I have the shock mounts at its lowest setting and the vikings set pretty stiff. Car handles really well. With this install, I am able to run 255/40-18s with out any modification.

RMS has amazing customer service, during the install it was discovered my axle housing was bent after the tabs were already welded. RMS replaced them free of charge

cuda with 18s.jpg
 
Street Lynx, relocated with narrowed rear for 325 tire. No cons so far. Tubular uppers and strut rods up fromt.

82F8A013-533F-4B4C-B5C4-F90DFFAC63AD.jpeg
 
cawley said:
very nice what sizes on the rear are you running
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275/50/17. I’m pretty sure. I’ll have to check. I have a problem remembering numbers sorry. I have an 8.8 under it. With the Dr Diff spring relocation offset.
 
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