Makes sense. I had less than 5,000 miles on a new drivver side Moog LBJ and it went bad. Also had a new inner tie rod end go bad on the passenger side.
Who makes quality lower ball joints?
- Thread starter SKR8PN
- Start date
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Don’t waste your money on dried up ancient NOS who knows how old ball joints that will need brand new boots the moment they hit the road or worse.
The Proforged ball joints use metal cups and are greasable.
It’s in their advertising -
“Proforged Ball Joints generally utilize forged SAE4140 steel for the ball stud and forged SAE1045 for the housings, a combination that yields incredible strength and toughness. Proforged ball joints are available for nearly every year, make, and model vehicle found on the road today.
And you can see it when you pop the boot off. Maybe not well enough in the pictures to make believers out of the skeptics, but it’s easy to see when you’re looking at it that everything in there is metal, as is claimed by Proforged.
The Proforged ball joints use metal cups and are greasable.
It’s in their advertising -
“Proforged Ball Joints generally utilize forged SAE4140 steel for the ball stud and forged SAE1045 for the housings, a combination that yields incredible strength and toughness. Proforged ball joints are available for nearly every year, make, and model vehicle found on the road today.
Features:
- Greasable Design - Extends Life and Easy Service
- Metal to Metal Heavy Duty Bearing”
And you can see it when you pop the boot off. Maybe not well enough in the pictures to make believers out of the skeptics, but it’s easy to see when you’re looking at it that everything in there is metal, as is claimed by Proforged.
I've also used Proforged products to great affect:
Lower Ball Joints, Tie-rod ends and steering Pitman arms.
Sadly they didn't make Idler arms so I had to get Oreilly's "Master-pro" brand Idler arm.
We'll see how it goes.
Lower Ball Joints, Tie-rod ends and steering Pitman arms.
Sadly they didn't make Idler arms so I had to get Oreilly's "Master-pro" brand Idler arm.
We'll see how it goes.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
I have used Proforged tie rods ends, sleeves, ball joints, idle and pitman arms since 2012ish with no issies to date. The cars with headers see a fair amount of R&R of the centerlink during maintenance. Prior to ProForged I used Mopg until their supply chain ethics became questionable.
SKR8PN
Well-Known Member
I also discovered that the high end NAPA lowers(NOT the cheaper ones) for this car are all metal as well. At least the ones I got were.
I'm another that used pro forged to rebuild my steering. They had everything available back in 2020. I'm really happy with everything, I've had no issues at far.
Full parts list below.
Edit: @4spdragtop asked a good question.
73+ Ball joints, 73+ bbp disc spindle, 72 pitman, 11/16 tie rods and adjusters
Full parts list below.
Edit: @4spdragtop asked a good question.
73+ Ball joints, 73+ bbp disc spindle, 72 pitman, 11/16 tie rods and adjusters
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Good questions. I edited my post to add those details.
73+ Ball joints, 73+ bbp disc spindle, 72 pitman, 11/16 tie rods and adjusters
Oh, they do make an idler arm!
Hmm... I checked it out it's for 1967 - 72 A-bodies. I wonder though, if I can make it work on my 1974?
Everything else is the same thing I used except the T-Rod sleeve. The one I got is from QA1, 11/16 thread. Here it is in comparison to OEM sleeves in the second pic.
*The long box is the PST's 1.03" Torsion bars I installed with everything else a while back.*
You’d have to change to a 67-72 centerlink to use the 67-72 idler, as well as a 67-72 pitman. And if you’ve got a large sector power steering box that would also require swapping to a small sector steering box.
Not worth it.
Now that @72bluNblu mentioned it.
My pitman arm is also different than the list: (103-10015)
Proforged Chassis Parts 103-10015 Proforged Pitman Arms | Summit Racing
My pitman arm is also different than the list: (103-10015)
Proforged Chassis Parts 103-10015 Proforged Pitman Arms | Summit Racing
This is a good info thread. I'm going to add more info to my spreadsheet to round out 67-72 and 72+ (since mine is a mix of both for BBP) and post and updated screenshot, or a link to the sheet.
Don't forget the 1967 idler arm is a one year only item. If you're making a table of part numbers, you'll want to reflect that.
Yup, good point, the idler itself is ‘67 or ‘68-‘72 to work with the ‘67-72 center link because of the single shear mount on the ‘67 K frame.
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