Who's rockers are these?

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moparstud440

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Can anyone tell me who the maker of these rockers might be? Best picture I have, found them for sale, and seller doesn't know who the manufacturer is. I'm thinking Proform, but not sure?

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I got a set of MP's that look identical, probably made by PF. Hows the bore finish? Mine was a tad rough..smooth but looks like they bored it with a 60 stone.
 
I've never seen the MP rockers packaged like that. If they don't have bearings in them, they are most likely Crane rockers anodized blue.

If they have bearings in them, I'd sell them and buy the Comp steel rockers or the PRW stainless steel rockers. They have bushings.
 
The Crane and MP rockers are stamped on the top of the rocker what they are.

If there are no markings, I’d say they’re ProForm.
In which case I’d advise to stay away from them.

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The rockers have no markings on the top side. Pretty sure they are Proform maybe PRW, either way I'm going to pass on them. Thanks for the help guys.
 
I get over stock emails for PEP Precision Engine Parts located here in Vegas...i got an email about 2 weeks ago...and I deleted it but they had those rockers for sale for 80 dollars.....
 
Your right, no MP on these, they do have roller and adjuster oiling holes and they fit the shaft nice...better than stamped I suppose. Have not broken one yet but run pretty mellow springs.
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Your right, no MP on these, they do have roller and adjuster oiling holes and they fit the shaft nice...better than stamped I suppose. Have not broken one yet but run pretty mellow springs.
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I wouldn't be afraid to run that rocker with spring loads as high as 280 on the seat and 650 or so over the nose as long as the geometry is correct.

That rocker is bushed, like they all should be. When needle bearings are used two things happen.

The body is made significantly weaker because the bearing/race is so damn big where the bushing used in the rocker you have is a nice, thin wall piece so the rocker arm body is much thicker, especially around the spring pocket.

And the roller bearing on a big (bigger than what is used on say a SBC shaft set up) shaft that is hollow presents its own issue. The engineering is over my head, but the upshot has something to do with how the needle carries the load and transmits that load to the shaft. IIRC, the surface of the shaft will actually wad up around the needle and again, IIRC the needle causes the shaft to get a slight indent at that same spot and then it's over.

I should have paid more attention when the guy was talking but I really didn't care as I don't run needle bearings on a reciprocating shaft unless that's the only option.

It was for the junk Chevy rocker system back in the day, and why Chrysler guys want to copy that junk today is beyond me.
 
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That rocker is bushed, like they all should be. When needle bearings are used two things happen.

The body is made significantly weaker because the bearing/race is so damn big where the bushing used in the rocker you have is a nice, thin wall piece so the rocker arm body is much thicker, especially around the spring pocket.

Unless its a High dollar T&D setup that uses its own smaller OD shaft and offset W style pedestals necessitating you milling the LA stands flat. Not for me, sold these fast. Notice size of nose roller, ball and ball adjuster, shaft and rod offset for split 1.65/1.75 ratios and carbon fiber spacers! $$$ You get what you pay for... Those Smith Brothers pushrods were more than my PF rockers....(ProForms hanging on wall)
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That rocker is not bushed. It is solid aluminum with a groove cut in the middle for oil flow. So you'll have relatively soft aluminum taking the load, not bronze.


The picture in post 14 sure looks like it has a bushing in it.

Doesn't matter. I'd run the rocker with no bushing long before I'd use a rocker with needle bearings in them.

And yes, I have done it, and will do it again.
 
The T&D IMA roller bearings were 7/8 OD (same as Mopar shaft..remove and run on stock shaft?) and 3/4 ID IIRC. Wonder why the castings didnt extend all the way to edge like T&D or PRH's Crane/MP BB rockers? Would make them that much stronger...
 
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The T&D IMA roller bearings were 7/8 OD (same as Mopar shaft..remove and run on stock shaft?) and 3/4 ID IIRC. Wonder why the castings didnt extend all the way to edge like T&D or PRH's Crane/MP BB rockers? Would make them that much stronger...


Can't say about the above, but I do know you can tell T&D you want the rocker bushed and not use a bearing and they will do it. They will itch and moan about it, but they will do it.
 
Only thick wall inductioned hardened rocker shafts live with needle bearing rockers.
I paid i think around 200.00 for mine from Dvorak machine. They out lived the first set of Ohio crankshaft rockers, no longer sold, the races wore and with a magnifying glass pick and light...I could move the inner needle cage and see the wear.
They were new to me then and I had checked them frequently of course cuz I didn't trust them ..like most people... but I know there was some power to had and probably be a lot more accurate than the other rockers I had which were like 1.45 maybe. I have another set brand new, red ones.. dunno if I'll get to using them, have comps and mp's bushed for over 7000
 
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@pishta , post #16 has offset shafts for la engines who's are those t&d's ? thinking the wedge rb head needs that setup . not nuts for needle bearings , unless it pushes oil though the pushrods to wash those bearings like a chevy or ford sb's . i still would prefer bushings , less load on the shaft surface .
 
I bought those T&Ds plus the pushrods off a Chevy guy and quickly found they were gonzo overkill for my build so I flipped them. He got them in a storage locker buy and didnt know what they were for so he posted it up on his chevy forum that I was somehow browsing at the right time (I don't even own a chevy!) . He sold them for about 10-15 cents on the dollar so I snapped them up without any questions. They had some serious ratios on the exhaust. Ever see a SBM with a 1.75 rocker? I had to replace 3 of the bearings but they were available and just pressed right in with a few washers and a jackscrew setup.
 
great luck there . i'm looking into outfitting my champman stage 6's . i was thinking i would need to build my own heavy offset shaft stuff . went to t&d's site , but no pics of those setups . but offer many from 1.5to1 thru 1.7/1 int and 1.7to1 thru 2.0to1 exh . the round tipped push rods are oilers right ?
 
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