Will NOT run right!!!!!!!!!

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swordfish

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Got a new guy question here. I'll try to give as much info as I can. Got a 74 dart custom. was a 225, swaped in a 318. Has a new holley 600 vac sec., performer intake, comp xe250 cam, 9:1 pist., factory heads w/hard seats, fact. crank and rods, factory dist., accell coil standard ign. box. I've built a hundred of these for other people so I finally did one for me.
PROBLEM: the car runs and drives great, gets good gas milage....but when it comes up to operating temp., it starts to miss. Sometimes it will be driving fine and when I slow to turn into my driveway it just shuts off. It starts right up every time, but just doesn't want to run right.
WHAT I"VE DONE: changed coils(twice), changed dist., new vac. adv. canister on dist., changed ign. module(twice), had alternater checked-working perfectly, cleaned ALL contacts and grounds in wiring harness and ign. parts, Put extra ground cable from engine to frame, changed ign. solinoid(relay), checked mainfold and carb base for vac. leaks..no leaks, no gas tank problems, put on a new gas cap(vents perfect), charcoal canister vent line not clogged(blew air through it), no melted wires or spark jump, spark plugs all look good-carb set great.
What gets me is it only does it when its warmed up, so some of these things I knew weren't it but you have to check anyway. The only thing thats got me curious is this car has the ignition reset button under the hood. I normally unplug the front seat from the harness and I'm good to go, never had any problems like this before so don't know why they would start now.
Anybody have any experience like this? Ready to pull the remaining hair out of my head. Thanks for any help. :banghead:
 
First Welcome to the club!
Have you thought of upgrading to a gm hei setup, they just flat out work better. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=236528
When you built the motor did you have the block and heads out tanked? You might have a block up passage which is creating a hot spot.
Also what fuel octance are you using and from who (arco sucks), have you tried switching brands and running a higher octane?
 
Hard to say but

1--The reset button only affects the "start" function. You would do well to bypass it, and it's easy. Find the two "yellowish" (yellow tracer) wires going to the connector for the reset device, and splice them together. When / if the reset trips out the starter will not crank

2--Check your running charging voltage right at the battery with a good voltmeter, warm. At a good fast idle or faster, you should read optimally 13.8--14.2 volts, in no case below 13.5 (except dead slow idle) nor above 14.5

3--REALLY scrape and clean and ground the ignition box. Use star washers.

This could easily be either electrical, fuel, or (unlikely) some sort of valve problem
 
The 74 model does have a seatbelt interlock circuit that prevents start. Its very easily defeated. Just clip the 2 yellow wires and connect them together. I think one of them has a black tracer. This circuit only interrupts the start relay anyway and cant effect run.
I would get a temp gauge and find out just how hot it runs.
Too many times a new engine gets all the money and the radiator gets ignored.
If the torque converter is pushing on the thrust bearing, it will run hotter and stall too.
Just my guesses.
 
When you switched dizzys did you check reluctor gap? Ground on your box another good one, but for ruffly 100 trailbeast will send you the hei conversion and it will probably solve all your problems. Its a great upgrade or you can make your own, he is also good with any problems you may have. maybe he will chime in.
 
1: had the block bored .030 and tanked. I use BP mostly and always 93 oct.
2: will definately check voltage running, already "scraped" around the module, but I'll check it again. you never know.
3: She's runing around 180-185, and not vaper locking.
4: reluctor gap set to .006

All good info, thanks guys (gals?) I'll keep at it.
 
Something basic but what do you have the plug gaps set at?
 
Sedanman said:
Check the ballast resistor?
Click to expand...
Ballast resistor bypassed.
Sorry, that was a different post.
Yes, replace it, they are cheap, and they can fail intermittantly because of temp variations.


Del brought up a good point to check (Valves)
Is this a hydraulic lifter system?

Other than adjustable valves being set to tight or a failing ballast, the problem sounds like fuel to me.
What pump are you running, and is it possible that fuel is getting past the needle and seat in the carb?
Overfilled bowls can cause an engine to die when the fuel moves to one side or the other.
Plugs wouldn't show it because it would only be momentary.
Does it do this turning right, left, or both?

Last but not least, is it getting worse or happening more often?

Lot of questions I know, but it matters.
 
Sorry, been out of pocket. It is a hydraulic system, xe250 - 250/260 - 206/212 - .425/.444, basic holley vac secondary 600, eddy performer intake, headers,duels, flowmasters. Daily driver car and it does great when you first start it (cold) but put about ten miles on it when it's warm and it starts missing.
Fuel pump is new from Napa, mechanical. Fuel bowls are side hung but, it misses and dies at a stoplight just sitting there, no turns. Bowls are set good.
Plugs gapped at .035
I mostly turn right, but it doesn't seem to matter. If I'm out on the road/highway no problem, but when I slow down or come to a stop, you have to be ready. Sometimes I can kick it into nuetral and it won't happen, but put it in gear and it will try to die. If I turn the Idle way up,800 rpm in gear, it still happens so I don't understand the nuetral thing.
In the end, it only happens when it warms up, not when its cold. Wondering if it could still be a vac. leak somewhere around the manifold or carb base? Oh, and it happens evertime I drive it.
This car is an original 27,000 mile survivor. Pulled the six and put in the 318. Changed the carpet, brakes, new suspension, exaust annnnd done. Great little daily driver, just wish I could figure this. Haven't changed the ballast yet, might as well.
 
I would start with your timing and work from there.
What fuel pressure do you have?
Check your vacuuum cold, and then hot, this could indicate a temperature difference.
Re-check your float levels, the fuel pressure may be creeping with the increase in temperature and flooding the bowls.
Set the bowls to the bottom of the sight plug cold.
Shake the fenders again when warm, re-adjust to the bottom of the bowls, try it.

I had a slant in a 81 d-150 that wanted to die every time it went around a hard left turn, lowered the float in the carb and it took care of the problem.
 
Thanks for the response. Fuel presure is right at 6#. Vacuum is 15-16" hot or cold. Bowls set to the bottom of the threads, and both A/F screws set barely past 1 1/2 ( in case you were wondering! ). Air bleeds also clear and drilled all the way through. I've worked on Holleys for almost 20 years and am pretty comfortable around them, so I didn't think this was a fuel issue as much as an electrical one. Gas tank and sender are new as is the gas cap. All vents are clear, and filter is new and in the right direction.
I'll check the voltage again and pick up a ballast, they're pretty cheap even if it doesn't work. You guys are great, thanks again.
 
Well, I did the dirty deed.....I fixed two things at the same time. Replaced the ballast, and replaced the thin holley carb base gasket with a thick (3/8") factory replacement base gasket. Run'in fine now though. Anyway, thanks again guys for all your help. :thumleft:
 
What does the back of the old ballast resister look like?
 
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