Will swapping harmonic balancers cause any issues ????

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duster360

duster360

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My engine has had the rotating assembly balanced. It is a 340 with a steel crank ( internally balanced ). The balancer I bought is a decent one but I have considered using a something like an ATI balancer. Will swapping on another balancer change anything? Would going from a stock style balancer to an ATI be an improvement. This is a street car that will see an occasional high RPM blast up around 6400 or so.
 
duster360 said:
My engine has had the rotating assembly balanced. It is a 340 with a steel crank ( internally balanced ). The balancer I bought is a decent one but I have considered using a something like an ATI balancer. Will swapping on another balancer change anything? Would going from a stock style balancer to an ATI be an improvement. This is a street car that will see an occasional high RPM blast up around 6400 or so.
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Good question..I'm thinking about swapping to a fluid dampener to help the engine a little.

Treblig
 
neutral balanced can use any neutral balanced damper...neutral balanced=internal balanced
 
If you're using a fresh stock replacement on the engine now, I'd leave it. If you want a SFI approved unit for a upgrade, and being a street car with just the occasional 6500 blast, I'd look into the "Summit" unit. At less then 1/2 the price vs the ATI, it's a no brainer for me. :)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-c4277/overview/make/dodge


Engine wise, I doubt you'd ever hurt this one. The only issue that may come into play may be getting the pulley alignment just right?
 
I had one of those 1/2 the price summit balancers...and less then one year...the outer ring had slipped...
10 degrees..
 
Could use a Romac. Quality but won't bust the wallet.
 
Good to know Tony! Would you still not use one on a street car that see's limited high rpm's? I'd like to know your opinion so I don't recommend them to any one else. :)
 
the one that slipped was a sfi balancer....using romac now
 
Yes. Engine timing marks on the LA V-8 moved 90º somewhere around 1971. Make sure the timing cover or timing mark tab agree with the marks on the damper. Otherwise, setting the timing of the engine will be an exercise in futility.
 
70aarcuda said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160643209836?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

fluid damper at rock bottom price...
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Thanks for that aarcuda!! My point is this...why would you spend $60-$80-$100 or more on a dampener that might shift or separate?? I'm building a 318 Stroker (390 CI). I plan to buy a new dampener and just can't see spending money on something that could cause problems later. Besides, don't fluid dampeners control/minimize crank vibrations better than a stock two piece dampener??? I'm trying to understand why someone would spend X dollars on a stock type dampener when they can get a fluid dampener for the same price or less??
Maybe someone who is knowledgeable about fluid dampeners can give me a good answer??
treblig
 
I would like to hear the difference between an $80 fluid dampner and a $350 fluid dampner.
 
jerry6 said:
$270
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TOUCHE'..jerry6!!!


We want to know the difference in quality, performance and durability more specifically?? I mean, they are all FLUID DAMPENERS so what difference does price make and more important why would anyone ever buy a regular one that could potentially slip or have the outer ring rotate???
Treblig
 
In my mind, if it's a street car with just an occasional blast up in the higher RPM's, then a low dollar dampener will work just fine.

I have had many factory dampeners over the years on engines that had well over 100K miles on them and they were still spot on.

If it's going to see regular romps, then without a doubt it's way better to upgrade.

As far as comparisons, I couldn't tell ya, I usually look for reviews and folks that have used them like what's being asked here.

Sometimes high dollar, is just that, high dollar and nothing more.
 
Bad Sport said:
In my mind, if it's a street car with just an occasional blast up in the higher RPM's, then a low dollar dampner will work just fine.

I have had many factory dampners over the years on engines that had well over 100K miles on them and they were still spot on.

If it's going to see regular romps, then without a doubt it's way better to upgrade.

As far as comparisons, I couldn't tell ya, I usually look for reviews and folks that have used them like what's being asked here.

Sometimes high dollar, is just that, high dollar and nothing more.
Click to expand...


That sounds good. I'm building a street car and never plan to go above 6K but I do want my engine to run smooth and have as little vibration as possible.

treblig
 
Hi,

My name is Ivan and I work for the original Fluidampr.

I want to be clear that an $80 fluidamper is not an authentic Fluidampr. These are cheap offshore imitations. And like my Grandpa always told me...you get what you pay for. The first viscous damper was invented by the Original Fluidampr's parent company, Vibratech TVD, in 1946 and are still 100% Made in the U.S.A.

Fluidampr is able to control crankshaft twist (which causes torsional vibrations a.ka. harmonics) at all RPM's vs. a predetermined narrow bandwidth found with elastomeric (rubber) bonded dampers as they are frequency sensitive. OEM's design and tune rubber dampers based on the way the engine comes from the factory. Make any performance modifications and you can shift where the frequencies of the engine occur; this will cause a bonded rubber damper to work harder and generating more heat. Well what happens to rubber when it is heated... it cracks, falls apart and it is only a matter of time before the outer inertia ring separates from the inner mounting hub. With a Fluidampr the inertia ring is enclosed in the outer housing and has a very thin layer of proprietary viscous silicone which allows the inertia ring to constantly shear through the silicone absorbing crankshaft twist at all frequencies regardless of RPM.

Furthermore, I also have extensive TVA (torsional vibration analysis) testing experience and have seen results first hand. The ability to control torsional vibrations not only reduces engine wear on critical components but also will free up lost h.p. and torque. The only elastomeric damper on the market that is even close is ATI. Fluidampr and ATI are so far ahead of the competition at controlling dangerous vibrations it is not even close. This comes down to lots of R&D, top quality materials and product manufactured in the U.S.

I hope my first hand experience helps clear up why a quality damper costs so much more than the competition.

If there are any individual questions, I am always available at [email protected]
 
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