Windshield replacement

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E55D21

HOB230933
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I'm looking for advise on replacing the windshield on my 70 Duster.. I'm going to have a "professional" do it but I want to purchase whatever parts I need before hand.
I have a OEM windshield and I plan on getting a new gasket ($90 from year one).. One question I have is that the year one catalog has a "front windshield lock bead"... I have no idea what it is or if I need one..
Comments or recommendations would be appreciated...

Thanks
 
I'd like to hear some feedback as well. I'll be getting everything together to replace my windshield gasket in mt '65 barracuda. I have to do my headliner and want to do that as well.
 
I had the windshield replaced on my 64 Dart, and helped the dude do it. First off the new gasket was a pain because it needed to be streched to fit the opening. It had to be streched as the glass was being installed, which made it a two man job. Imagine the gasket cross section looking something like a capitol K with the top section fitting into the frame of the opening,and the bottom section having the glass fit into it. The locking bead fits into the center to expand the gasket tight against both the glass and the metal frame. On the Duster you will need to remove the chrome strip around the windshield and then you can start to pull the locking bead out at one end, it usually ends in the bottom center of the windshield. I found that when it comes to removing the old windshield, it's better to cut out the part of the gasket over the glass with a utility knife because usually it's so hard you will break the windshield trying to push it out. once you have the glass out you can remove the gasket and clean the frame. I believe the Duster gasket is glued to the frame along the bottom, so you will have to find out what kind of glue is used for that. Hope this helps
 
As Maniac said, the locking bead is a separate piece of rubber (about the diameter of a #2 yellow pencil) that presses into the groove on the outer surface of the window gasket to "wedge" the seal against the glass and window channel. Once you get the stainless reveal molding removed, you can see if any of the fastening clips need to be replaced. Oftentimes, at least one or two are rusted badly and break when prying on them to remove the molding. You can get a full set of clips w/ screws for less than $20 (I just ordered a set today for $18.50 from Hardens Muscle Car World).

According to the Factory Service Manual you need to apply windshield sealer to the two inner grooves (one for the glass and one for the window channel fence). Also apply a 3/8" bead of sealer to the top edge of the cowl panel where the bottom lip of the windshield gasket will sit. Press the gasket down along the bottom over the raised tabs, then hand press it up along the sides and then the top (this is where two pairs of hands or more are useful).

Lift the glass into position and press it up into the top groove first, bumping it up tight with the heel of your hand along the bottom of the glass. You need to use a fiber or nylon glass installation tool (tapered wedge shape) to slip into the groove at one upper corner and slide it along the top, down one side, and all the way around the gasket, pressing the glass down into the seal as you go.

Make sure the glass is fully seated into the groove all around the perimeter. You can apply pressure with your hands and get it to slide a little if necessary. Install the locking strip with your fiber/nylon tool, beginning at the bottom center of the window. Spray it with glass cleaner to make it easier to press into the gasket's groove. Once you get all the way around back to the beginning, cut off the excess and check to see if the strip is fully seated into the groove all around the window.

Install your stainless molding by pressing it down onto the reveal clips and give yourself a big pat on the back. Take your time, be patient, and don't get frustrated if it doesn't go well at first.

Jerry
 
i restore old cars on the side and i don't remove the old glass. i call glass doctor to come do it for me. that way if it breaks, its on them. when the body is done, i call them back to reinstall it for me. i know what you are thinking but, 2 years from now when it leaks, if it leaks, it is on them, not me or my customer. and it only costs the customer $175.00 to do both ends. and i don't mark it up price wise. it is part of the deal i make with the car owner from the start. it just seems too easy. and i don't have to buy tools that don't get used enough to justify the cost.of course that is just me, being me. of course you can do it yourself, and it aint that big of a deal. just be careful. you can loose some blood over this job. and maybe a finger.good luck.
 
Thanks, guys, that is some very helpful and well-detailed information there.
 
i just had henderson glass pull mine. they came right to the house. mine was kinda a pain because the chrome trim didnt want to come off. took a good 30min. or more of work for the trim, but the henderson guy did all the work. they didnt charge me, and wont until the windsheild is reinstalled. the benefit too is that they por15 everything rusty under the seal to make sure nothing gets worse. total cost $100 plus the new seal. well worth it IMO. especially as since if it leaks you bring it back and they fix it/ pick up the cost for new seals if needed. just something to think about


jason
 
65barracudadude said:
I'd like to hear some feedback as well. I'll be getting everything together to replace my windshield gasket in mt '65 barracuda. I have to do my headliner and want to do that as well.
Click to expand...

I did the front windshield my 65 Barracuda last summer and am in the process of doing the rear glass now. Its really not that hard but using the right tools is essential and removing and installing the glass is a two man job.

The lock strip is chrome and a reasonable substitute for the origonal lock strip which is no longer available. I bought the gaskets and chrome locking strips from Rick Mazanec http://www.geocities.com/rickmazanec/lockstrip, Rick will enclose a plastic installation tool with purchase of gasket.

A lock strip installation tool helps a lot too, I can’t remember where I bought it from but any good tool outlet should have one and there inexpensive.
 
Thanks guys... So I need the seal and the "locking bead".. I'll get those items ordered and have someone (glass doctor, henderson etc) do the removal and installation. I like my fingers "intact".. Bedsides I rather sit on the sidelines and drink a beer while I watch someone who know's what they're doing... One thing that comes with "old age" (beside expendable funds) is wisdom.. I've never messed with a windsheild in the past 53 years so at this rate I won't have to ever do it again.. Plus I get to keep my fingers intact for gripping the beer can!!!!
Thanks for the input!!!! That's what is so great about this site, a wealth of information!!!!
 
Yep!!!!! It's much easier and cheaper to "type" and get the information and experience you need versus the "old school way" of trial and error... Besides there nothing much on TV anyway so I'd rather "cruise" the site...
 
I'm in the process of removing my windshield. Here is a pic showing the rope seal. It only goes on the sides and across the top of the windshield. The bottom part folds into itself. I have it pulled out for removal.

 
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