Wiring fire, advice sought!

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the fuse should burn out before the wire melts. 37 amp wire with a 60 amp fuse doesn't sound right at all to me.
 
Hi Tim, Just like too many people in a group going to a movie!! All good advice,but which one to pick! I'm "no" electrican, however I think a 60A is a tad bit high. It's like wrapping tin foil around a blown fuse. To me the Idea is to protect your system. If a fuse or link is rated to high it's "whats the use". Too high amps would by-pass your link and melt down your wires. I would suggest if you have a 40A... to put it in. Just my suggestion...you or "I" may get more advice on this one.
PS Like Robbie stated If you have a 10G wire...Put in a 30A link
 
Thanks for the input. Anything that stops an electrical fire is good!
I only went up to 60A fuse (from 30A) because I noted that BJS had said that teir looms now came with 70A fuses.
Think i'll lower the rating again.
 
Tim, There is a little different way to wire it when using that set up. For what you are going to do I would back it down to a 50 if you could. Yes the system will pull up to that much. The wire feeding into the dash harness and fuse block (the red wire you are working with) is capable of handling a 55 amp current. If you used a lesser rated wire you may want to find something that can handle that. Most of the time you will not pull that much current because you are not running every thing and have a weak battery. So the alt. out put will not be that high. However the purpose of a fuse isn't to limit but to protect from a gross over load. The biggest thing to worry about would to find a wire that was rated a little higher. If you do that the fuse would still more than likely blow if there was a major short before it started cooking wiring.
 
Thanks again, BJS. I understand what you are suggesting. I'll lower the fuse rating accordingly.
 
I am in the mist of the mad electrical upgrade and I noticed on their diagram they totally bypass the amp gauge. Can I get an autometer voltmeter and use that or do I need to solder the red and black wires together because on the mad electrical site it states

"we will make use of both legs of the old AMP gauge circuit–because it doubles the strength of the main power-up circuit to the “welded splice,” which serves as power distribution. "
 
yes, put in a voltmeter to monitor the charging system. rdline gauges can also make your ammeter into a voltmeter. only after a full moon though.
 
redfastback said:
yes, put in a voltmeter to monitor the charging system. rdline gauges can also make your ammeter into a voltmeter. only after a full moon though.
Click to expand...

I am planning on sending it off to redline to get the conversion done, but may be 5 or months before I send off the cluster. I just wanted to make sure it was ok to put a voltmeter to monitor charging system, but wanted to make sure I was defeating the purpose of the fix.
Thanks everyone for the help
 
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