Wiring Issue Headlamp not working Continued...

[ricker4444]

No. None of the main feed wires go through the instruments.
The ammeter is mounted to the instrument panel but has its own connections. Electrically it is completely seperate from everything else on the panel.
Follow the wiring diagram like a map. Take your finger and follow the path needed for the electrons to move to the destination and return to ground.

The instrument cluster lamps are fed through the orange wire on the round connector and a wire on the straight connector. Those will be hot (or should be ) when the parking lights are turned on depending on the position of the dimmer. So don't let those ground or you may blow the 2 amp fuse.
The other stuff needs the key switch on as far as I remember.

The schematics that explain how a circuit works leave out some junctions etc. Their purpose is to show how it works so leaves out the details of how it all connects on the actual assembly.

However what is important is that no hot wires are hanging loose.
For example, if the door switch wires are not connected to the door switches, then they could be grounding. That would result in the dome lights being on.
But if a direct hot wire is touching ground, then there will be a short circuit.

edit---
Main feed wires:
Battery to main splice (A, and R6A)
Alternator to main splice (R6)
Power to Headlight Switch B1 terminal, wire L1 Black with stripe
Power direct to Fuse Box, Q2 Red with Stripe
Power to Key Switch, J1 Red


Coming off the fuse box, the pink wires and the red to cigar lighter are always hot if the fuses are installed.

I appreciate all the help… I have to take a hard stop due to prior commitments but plan on getting back at it later tonight or tomorrow morning. I will keep you posted. Thank you so much

 

[ricker4444]

No. None of the main feed wires go through the instruments.
The ammeter is mounted to the instrument panel but has its own connections. Electrically it is completely seperate from everything else on the panel.
Follow the wiring diagram like a map. Take your finger and follow the path needed for the electrons to move to the destination and return to ground.

The instrument cluster lamps are fed through the orange wire on the round connector and a wire on the straight connector. Those will be hot (or should be ) when the parking lights are turned on depending on the position of the dimmer. So don't let those ground or you may blow the 2 amp fuse.
The other stuff needs the key switch on as far as I remember.

The schematics that explain how a circuit works leave out some junctions etc. Their purpose is to show how it works so leaves out the details of how it all connects on the actual assembly.

However what is important is that no hot wires are hanging loose.
For example, if the door switch wires are not connected to the door switches, then they could be grounding. That would result in the dome lights being on.
But if a direct hot wire is touching ground, then there will be a short circuit.

edit---
Main feed wires:
Battery to main splice (A, and R6A)
Alternator to main splice (R6)
Power to Headlight Switch B1 terminal, wire L1 Black with stripe
Power direct to Fuse Box, Q2 Red with Stripe
Power to Key Switch, J1 Red


Coming off the fuse box, the pink wires and the red to cigar lighter are always hot if the fuses are installed.

I think I may have discovered my issue. At some point I took the wiring off of this and that little plastic thing on the right feel out under the carpet… Probably why I am not getting any power??? I just put it back in and will try to reinstall everything. Would that most likely cause me not to get power to the headlights or have any effect on the dimmer?

 

[OttawaCharger]

that would do it. Go back and look at post 3 in this thread.