Wiring nightmare! Help

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/72Scamp

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So I drove my new car last night for the first time (69 valiant 383) and everything seemed to be working properly. All of a sudden the headlights started to flicker on low and high beam. And then kept going out and coming back on a few seconds later. Then both of my blinker arrows came on solid on my dash but we're not flashing outside! Any suggestions or ideas?
 
Look for a bad ground in the headlight circuit, mine in a 74 is on the radiator support.
 
The flickering headlights could be the ground,as said. I think in 69 its on the bumper side of the rad core support,close to the driver's side headlamp bucket.

If the indicators are both on, then there's a good chance all 4 of the signal filaments are also on. It may be that the emergency flasher switch is on, but the flasher is defective. This flasher IIRC should be a 3-prong unit.The electronic flashers work better in this application.The illumined signal indicators could also be problems in the turn-signal switch or the bulkhead disconnect.
Did you at any time smell hot, melting plastic?
 
Just for **** and giggles check and see if you have a points style voltage regulator or electronic. I don't think its your problem but you may want to change over in the future.
 
The above and more. If you seem to have the original wiring, start by reading this excellent article, which even if you don't do this mod. It accurately describes typical problems caused by age and corrosion, adding more "stuff" to the system

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Your suspects in 'approximate' order are:

Deteriorated connections in the bulkhead connector and ammeter circuit

As mentioned, bad headlight switch or switch connector

Maybe not "now" but bad dimmer switch and connector

Certainly the lighting connections and charging / battery terminals in the bulkhead connector, already mentioned

GROUNDS at the headlights

Headlight connectors

As mentioned, voltage regulator problems

In addition, greasy, dirty, worn alternator brushes and connections to them

The THING is you could very well have multiple problems.

Not knowing the history of your car (humidity, leaks, rust, corrosion in part) hard to guess.

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Where to start?

Treat "the problem" as if it's ONE problem, and identify and fix "that" problem. If that turns out NOT to be the total fix, start over again

EG: Part of problem with the dash lighting might be

I would start by measuring interior voltage at some point, while experimenting with the light switch. Find the main wire supplying the fuse panel and monitor that with a voltmeter. Turn the lights on/ off and see what happens to voltage there That might give you a clue as to "is it voltage drop?"

If not.....might be lighting feed wires going through the bulkhead connector

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On a different track, monitor charging voltage while running at "low cruise" RPM. Post what you have there, warmed up. Should be close to 14V. Much above 14 and certainly above 14.5 is too much or at least "heading there."

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I would actually inspect the light switch connections. You will have to remove the switch. With lights on, wiggle up in there around the switch and harness and look for dimming and flickering

Disconnect the bulkhead connector out in the engine bay and inspect.

Also, if you don't have, get a reprint shop manual. Factory manual. You can find these on ebay and "around" the internet. You can ALSO download FREE shop manuals at MyMopar:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
 
Thanks for al the input guys. I will look everything over this weekend. Wiring has never been a strong point of mine buy some of the wires do look like they were half assed from whoever did the engine swap.
 
No smell of anything melting. Car is in excellent shape. Rust free, no leaks that I can see and recently painted. Seems they did everything right except the wiring.
 
The reason I ask about smelling hot plastic is cuz there are at least two known places in the interior wiring where heat likes to build up, due to high-resistance connections. #1 is the bulkhead connector, and #2 is at the headlight switch. Both of these places are high-current draws, and when they get hot, they get real hot; hot enough to melt their plastic carriers. So no stink is a very good sign.
 
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