pretty much stock only other thing going on under the hood is nitros and line lock. No AC. what would be the best wire and ends to use
got it that makes it easey
holy **** that looks like what I would do.
not sure about the nonadhesive tape got some but what does it do
Since it doesn't stick to the wiring, it's easier to change or troubleshoot any of the wiring. It's neater when done too... The factory did it that way.
thanks I can see how that works. My next question would be the wire is in different colors is that something I need to fallow or is it ok to use a different color wire. not looking for trying to keep it original
American Autowire sells a slightly a set of proper crimpers, slightly less expensive than the real thing.
now that helped me lots. and will use what you sent me. thank you.Some pictures in my post on the IFSJA board for harness repairs - mostly Packard 56 connectors like our A bodies. International Full Size Jeep Association - View Single Post - Cold Temp/humidity sensitive Ignition
The Packard 56 are decent design with wide flat spring loaded contact area on the female terminals.
Sure there's better sealing ones today if you want to go that route, but these aren't bad.
My suggestions for a good job whether its selective repair or 100% new wires and terminals:
Tools:
Good set of crimpers for "open barrel" terminals from 18 to at least 12, preferably 10 or 8 gage.
The larger ones can come into use when joining two wires at a terminal. Astro sells a nice compound action crimper but the jaws are two wide for the male terminals.
Terminal removal tool. Seems silly when a cotter pin or small screw driver will do, but they do save time and minimize damage. I think they are worth it. Best in use is the single prong version. Multi-prongs sometimes interfere with the adjacent terminal cavities.
Wire stripper
Screw driver. May still need to use this for removing the male terminals.
Materials
Wire: My preference is from a marine supply center. Slight more copper, Tinned surface, insulation suitable for engine compartments. They also have a ton of colors and can cut what is needed. Second preference for engine compartment is with insulation for that environment (heat and oil) such as GXL or (IIRC) THWN rated insulation. Otherwise GPT (general purpose primary) is fine.
Terminals and Connectors: I've bought Packard 56 from Waytek Wire amongst others. There does seem to be slight differences such as whether they are tinned. The male terminals also seem to vary in dimensions?? I didn't notice that until working on the Jeep - but I;d try to find some that are same length as origin l and have the little tabs. (see pic in my first link for comparison of what I found on the Jeep). If the original connector (housing) are OK I reuse them.
Design:
There's no way in hell I would run the original a-body wire sizes to the headlights. If you're not going to a headlight relay system, increase all of the headlight wires to the next larger size.
Connector ID Guide:Automotive Electrical Connectors
That's up to you to do it however you want to, but doing it with the factory colors might make it easier now and easier down the road if you have an issue.
well looking at all the different color wire sure seems to me that I'm not gonna find in my price range the right color. and I agree that it it would make it better
No offense taken and you do have a good point it would be very hard to track down a bad wire and would cost me more in the long run than trying to save money now. I really do thank you all for your info. It has been a big help I sure wish you all were my neighbor
Some pictures in my post on the IFSJA board for harness repairs - mostly Packard 56 connectors like our A bodies. International Full Size Jeep Association - View Single Post - Cold Temp/humidity sensitive Ignition
The Packard 56 are decent design with wide flat spring loaded contact area on the female terminals.
Sure there's better sealing ones today if you want to go that route, but these aren't bad.
My suggestions for a good job whether its selective repair or 100% new wires and terminals:
Tools:
Good set of crimpers for "open barrel" terminals from 18 to at least 12, preferably 10 or 8 gage.
The larger ones can come into use when joining two wires at a terminal. Astro sells a nice compound action crimper but the jaws are two wide for the male terminals.
Terminal removal tool. Seems silly when a cotter pin or small screw driver will do, but they do save time and minimize damage. I think they are worth it. Best in use is the single prong version. Multi-prongs sometimes interfere with the adjacent terminal cavities.
Wire stripper
Screw driver. May still need to use this for removing the male terminals.
Materials
Wire: My preference is from a marine supply center. Slight more copper, Tinned surface, insulation suitable for engine compartments. They also have a ton of colors and can cut what is needed. Second preference for engine compartment is with insulation for that environment (heat and oil) such as GXL or (IIRC) THWN rated insulation. Otherwise GPT (general purpose primary) is fine.
Terminals and Connectors: I've bought Packard 56 from Waytek Wire amongst others. There does seem to be slight differences such as whether they are tinned. The male terminals also seem to vary in dimensions?? I didn't notice that until working on the Jeep - but I;d try to find some that are same length as origin l and have the little tabs. (see pic in my first link for comparison of what I found on the Jeep). If the original connector (housing) are OK I reuse them.
Design:
There's no way in hell I would run the original a-body wire sizes to the headlights. If you're not going to a headlight relay system, increase all of the headlight wires to the next larger size.
Connector ID Guide:Automotive Electrical Connectors
Heh. The link to my post was the wrong one (fixed it now). This is the one with the pictures.
thanks Bill the relay sounds like a good idea.
