Wiring the race car....

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Cope

Cope

Fusing with fire
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I' in the process of removing ALL the old wire from my 71 dart street/Race car.

I will be throwing away the old harness and using a Painless 7 wire kit.

If any one has a pics of the headlight, tail light wiring diagram that would be great.

Any things I should be aware of or things you folks encountered while doing your cars?
Tips, ideas?

Thanks for the time and advice.
 
Cope said:
I' in the process of removing ALL the old wire from my 71 dart street/Race car.

I will be throwing away the old harness and using a Painless 7 wire kit.

If any one has a pics of the headlight, tail light wiring diagram that would be great.

Any things I should be aware of or things you folks encountered while doing your cars?
Tips, ideas?

Thanks for the time and advice.
Click to expand...
I would not use painless, I would research other brands if possible, I used painless, and to say the least the fuse block was not right. That's all I want to say. I talked with them and said it wasnt possible, no it was fff up cost me alot of $ .
 
Hum, I would like to know what went wrong and what you found out was the issue with their block?

Most of my important stuff is already wired using standalone wiring. I only payed 20 bucks for the harness new in box so it' not a big deal if I don't use it.

All I want is headlights, breaklights, taillights.

All the rest runs on 10G wire.
 
Also what is that box on the drivers side inner fenders with the two fuses. Can I just run a 3 pole toggle for headlights? (Off, on and highbeam?)
 
I went with a ez wiring kit, but went with their highest curcits but mines also a street/strip car, they do offer a smaller 12 curcits one for race cars and just cut and tape what you don't want to use. It includes:
Standard Fuses and Fuse Panel
+ Turn Signal, Hazard, Headlight, ACC, Fan, Wiper, AC/Heat, Gauges, Coil, Brake, Radio, Horn
But can wire the things you don't want or have to other things.
 
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I had a question about these wiring kits. Is the blinker mechanism that makes the actual light blink on this or is it just like a fuse box with a bunch of wires marked for where they go?
 
@Cope - why would you want to bypass a circuit that is already there, built in and ready to go? Not that you can't run a toggle, I just don't see the advantage.. and honestly, you're making work for yourself. Can you hit us with a pic of the box on the fender? @j par - These kits typically have the blinkers and flashers built right in and it's simply a matter of running the wires (which are labeled) to the correct locations.. so the answer is yes and not exactly but kinda. The one Cope has appears to be sans the flashers/blinkers BUT it is intended to be used with the original harness - it's an auxiliary unit - not a main harness.
 
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Yes I'm making more work but I'm also making less work for the future. I want o get the car down to as few wires as I can, this way it' easy to figure out any issues. Also I no longer have inner fenders so that box is out in space.
 
Is the box in question is the alternator regulator right? If it is why not swap to a single wire and delete that box?
 
Yikes, personal preference but I just don't like looking into a Mopar motor and seeing a Chevy alternator. LOL it pisses me off LOL

Matts440 said:
Is the box in question is the alternator regulator right? If it is why not swap to a single wire and delete that box?
Click to expand...
 
No, it' for he headlights. The Alt regulator has already been moved to the passanger kick panel.

Let me see if I have a pic
 
Yes the subject interest me because that's what I was thinking of doing was just kind of lightning up my wiring and making it easier. I do have my complete dash out right now with most of the wiring harness. I was definitely thinking of putting everything under the dash on the inner firewall. The 6al the voltage regulator starter solenoid everything. I'm going to run the wires In a tube through the driver side inner fender wall. Basically trying to get as many wires out of the motor compartment as I can. And only have the wires travel out where needed. But as cope is doing I'd like to lighten things up and get rid of the wires for the air conditioner that heater the windshield wipers the seat buzzers. All that stuff that's not needed. I was just hoping that if I bought one of those wire kits it wasn't just a fuse box with a bunch of labeled wires. I took care of the wiring mess a long time ago as far as figuring it out by going down to Office Depot and having a dollar fifty copy made of the wiring diagram and color. For me it's not figuring out where they go is much what to do with them.
 
J Par, you hit it!
I' sick of all the extra wires! I will also be buildng an aluminum cover for the fire wall and I don' want anything mounted to it.
The 6 AL, regulator, bus blocks all under the dash on the passenger side. All the wires run nice and tight, it' a pain in my ads but will be beautiful when done!

Extra wires=extra weight!! With all the cage weight I have I need to loose weight anywhere I Can!
 
I bought a universal block new at one on the swap meets, it was an 10 circuit block. From there, a friend & I put in 8 circuits needed for the race car. Minimal wires, minimal weight.
 
Like on my thread about the reconfiguration I am putting the car out on the street but it is a summertime car and will not need windshield wipers or heaters and such. That's exactly what I want to do kind of streamlined things and put everything like you said inside on the passenger inner fire wall. Kind of know where all the wires are and where they go to and have them all labeled that way like. you're probably thinking if there's a problem you know exactly where it's at? So I'm still going to run the wires to the front for the headlights and maybe the cooling fans and the line lock and a couple things coming around the driver side, but I'm going to run a tube through the front fender and through the firewall Ride Along underneath that piece you still saved up there of the inner fire wall where the fender connect to.
I'll take a picture and hold the tube up there, I give an example of what I'm thinking.
20171208_192800.jpg

Cope said:
View attachment 1715119029


Here you can see the bottom of the box.
Click to expand...
 
That pic is just the first cut to see where and how close I could get the plasma.

But yes, I want ease of maintanince and a clean fire wall. No point making a new firewall then mounting a bunch of old BS on it right?

(J Par) I got a cool tunnel ram pic for ya!


20171203_153343_zpsibmzoftq.jpg
 
I'll shoot one of it tomorrow. It's at the shop.
Our sister motor just made 682HP on one 850 and we running two 1050s.

:)
 
I gotta say - if you're careful it's easy to decipher which wires go to your headlights and tail lights - when cutting up the original harness the front ones are VERY obvious (cut after the connector not before it!!) and the rear harness is fairly easy to find and decipher too. Once you have snipped away the "extra" wiring, all you need is a charged up battery and two good pieces of wire - I suggest you leave plenty of extra wire off the front light wiring and don't cut the tail section anywhere but inside the cabin!! It should come into the car from the back seat area and run along the drivers side under the carpet and the sill plate - keep it as long as you can! Simply note which ones are your ground common wires (you do have a FSM right!? - even if you don't, the diagrams are easy to find online) - hook those to the neg. side of the battery and then use the power wire (off of the pos. side of the battery) and touch it to each of the other light wires - when you hit the low beam wire, the low beam light will come on - do one at a time, left then right - - etc. etc... I use painters masking tape and a marker and "flag" each one. I just went through this with the rear lights on my plow truck - it took some time, but I got it all wired back up and working. Heck, I now have an old set of fog lights that come one when I put the truck in reverse... piece of cake.
 
Cope, other than the inner fenders your car looks kind of like mine when I first got it. If I can find the pictures of it while we were wiring it, I will send them to you. My partner drew out the wiring diagram with the gauge & color for each wire. This makes it extremely easy to service. So far, all I've had was one light bulb go out to the oil pressure gauge.
 
20171211_153401_zpsjiecan4a.jpg


Thanks Demon! That would be a big help.
I got almost everything required to fire the motor hooked up. I went a head and fired the engine with out the fans. Sounds Good!
One stuck lifter but hopefully that will I'm stick when she can warm up.
 
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