won't start when hot.

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19scamp71

19scamp71

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Have a 340 with new MSD 6al, new Blaster coil, new distrubutor, new ballast ect. Car starts fine when cold, drives fine no problems. Then I shut it off and go to start it after sitting for 10 minutes car won't start. Its like I get no spark, I cycle the key and starter a half dozen times or so and it starts. Could it be a bad intermitent coil or could my coil be getting hot??
 
im going to say you may be having a hot fuel/vapor lock/percolation issue. what kind of carb are you running.
 
do you have any kind of spacer? next time you have ran it and shut it off, pull the air cleaner , look and listen for any fuel boiling or dripping into the primaries
 
73AbodEE said:
do you have any kind of spacer? next time you have ran it and shut it off, pull the air cleaner , look and listen for any fuel boiling or dripping into the primaries
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I have a 1" spacer, to me it seems like no spark, but I will check for boiling fuel.
 
i would say it can, but ive never experienced it. it would seem to me that if it was, it would be because of some other issue. you can always switch it out. 67dart273 is the man to ask about that. he has a wealth of electrical knowledge.
 
Not to hi-jack this thread but I am having a similiar problem. I have a 600 elderbrok carb with a 6 month old MSD Blaster 2 coil, 6 month old MSD plug wires and new distrubutor. The car alsohas a Elderbrock street performer intake. Recently the car has started acting strange. The first start of the day is great but after driving for until normal operating temperatures and shutting the car off. The car turns over great but it can take 6 to 10 seconds to start. Once started I really have to work the gas to keep the car running. When driving it seems normal. Now this did not occur until the weather got hot here in AZ.

Any help appreciated.

thx

Greg A
 
Ran to car hard in the 96 degree heat today, no boiling gas. Still starts fine the first start of the day but after that, it takes 6 to 10 seconds to get her to start. She turns over great but just takes the 6 to 10 seconds to start.
 
19scamp71 said:
Have a 340 with new MSD 6al, new Blaster coil, new distrubutor, new ballast ect. Car starts fine when cold, drives fine no problems. Then I shut it off and go to start it after sitting for 10 minutes car won't start. Its like I get no spark, I cycle the key and starter a half dozen times or so and it starts. Could it be a bad intermitent coil or could my coil be getting hot??
Click to expand...

do you have the power lead from the ballast powering the MSD?? try to bypass the ballast...
 
If your using a 6al you definatly DO NOT need the ballast resister, you are lucky you haven't blown your 6al out yet


oops check that I guess with the msd you can run the resister, I took mine out though and I have a Mallory 6al, heres a diagram, if it's not the ignaiton than the others are correct you must be getting vapor lock some how...

[ame]http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/Ignitions/6420_instructions.pdf[/ame]
 
Put an in-line spark tester in series with one wire. It is a neon bulb that flashes, only $3 at Harbor Freight. That will quickly tell you if you have spark.
 
412 Stroker said:
Oops my bad I was thinking your post was from the original Op...
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Mine was the original post with the MSD box. I finally got the car to act up again. After the car was warm I went to start it and it wouldn't fire. I hooked up my timing light to the coil wire like someone suggested and had no spark. After cycling the key a half dozen times it finally fired. When I have spark it starts as soon as I hit the key??? Why am I getting this intermmitent spark??
 
Just because the key is in the "run" position doesn't mean the ignition system is getting 12 V. Your ignition switch may be bad (~$12 new), you may have a loose wire or corroded terminal in the bulkhead connector (common), or a loose ballast resistor (if still using one). A multimeter would quickly tell you where ign disappears. Can't do much electrical without one.
 
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