Worth it to put headers on a 318?

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fnaramore

fnaramore

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Hello, I have a '73 318 that is going to have a 600cfm edelbrock carb, edelbrock performer intake and a edelbrock performer rpm cam. For my application is it really worth it to do headers in terms power vs. price? The rest of the exhaust has already been done with 2.5 in pipes. Thank you for any advice you can give.
 
Headers are a pain in the *** blown gaskets, the cheaper ones hang real low and drag on speed bumps and you have problems with starter and center steering link. I would stay with stock for street use our look at shorty headers but don't cheep out or they will cause you real headache.
 
maybe another member will chime in with more experience with an A-body. I think the block hugger headers are well worth it. I got my headers on my truck for $20 though out of a junkyard so my opinion is pretty null. lol
 
Worth it? As far as performance, probably not. You're committed to 600 CFM on the intake end. That means that you need to blow 300 CFM out of each manifold. I really don't know the flow rate of a 318 manifold but you'd think it has to be above 300. If not a set of 360 manifolds should certainly be above 300 CFM. I'd do that long before a set of headers.
 
I got you guys, I was also thinking a set of 340 high performance manifolds might be the way to go. I will take all advice I can get on this though.
 
While I agree with everything that 67cudafb said - almost. The headers that I put on my 318 really woke it up! I have the same intake manifold and probably the same carb - I might have the next size bigger, but I noticed a big difference in power when I put my headers on. They are a pain to install, and I will need to take the driver's side off when I need a new starter, but I'm pleased with the outcome. Just my 2 cents worth...
 
Headers def. flow better than any exhaust manifolds even the highly sought after hi-po 68-70 340 ones. True they are a pain to install but to each there own. Just my 2 cents.

Howard
 
Heres an article out of Mopar Muscle on manifolds, shortys and long tubes, the first thing I did besides rims when I bought my duster in 1980 with a 318 at the time was put in headers, AND THEY DONT LEAK IF YOU USE REMFLEX GASKETS!!! I say go headers!!

440 big block Mopar:
RPM Manifold ShortyFull Tubes in HP

3000 256.2 260.9 271.7

3600 310.0 325.0 350.0

4600 402.5 439.1 464.1




Read more: http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...nifolds_vs_headers/viewall.html#ixzz2VSN1iLRk
 
While they can be a pain to install on some cars, I have never regretted throwing a set of full length headers on any of the my project cars.

Pat
 
fnaramore said:
What kind of headers are you using with your 318 de96cuda?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I don't know. I bought them from a friend of a guy that used to live down the street from me. The friend used to drag race Mopars and switched to Chevy's because parts were cheaper. I got them cheap because they were just taking up space in the guy's backyard, but they don't have a stamp on them anywhere with the manufacturer. They do hang down under my steering linkage and drag occasionally, but not often. Mainly on speed bumps, but it's gotten better once I put in stiffer torsion bars. The old slant 6 bars didn't do well with the 318's additonal weight - that and they were old!
 
Buy decent headers, not cheap junk with thin flanges.

I run Dougs and tti headers and never have issues with exhaust gaskets.

It will run perform with headers.
 
What about manifolds from a 90's Dakota? I have a set that I might put on my 71 318...
 
here we go again

my cheap *** long tube hooker headers
don't leak
don't burn wires
are not bashed in
took me all of 3 hours to put on
the paint still looks good after 2 years

they get a bad wrap because the people that use them try to drop the front end 2 inches off the ground

I have old 6 cylinder torsion bars and old shocks on top of it all
 

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Leadfoot said:
Worth it? As far as performance, probably not. You're committed to 600 CFM on the intake end. That means that you need to blow 300 CFM out of each manifold. I really don't know the flow rate of a 318 manifold but you'd think it has to be above 300. If not a set of 360 manifolds should certainly be above 300 CFM. I'd do that long before a set of headers.
Click to expand...

Actually your reasoning is flawed. The reason of course is the burning of gasoline, which not only increases CFM, it increases flow because of heat. If an engine outputted the same cfm as it took in, it would not be generating any energy.

Frankly I'd say this setup is borderline. A set of headers might give a few more HP, but may not be worth it for expense and installation hassle, etc
 
73AbodEE said:
here we go again

my cheap *** long tube hooker headers
don't leak
don't burn wires
are not bashed in
took me all of 3 hours to put on
the paint still looks good after 2 years

they get a bad wrap because the people that use them try to drop the front end 2 inches off the ground

I have old 6 cylinder torsion bars and old shocks on top of it all
Click to expand...

I knew you'd chime in before too long with the ole standby post Lance. :D

& X2 on the Cheap Headers. Putting the money I saved on my cheap headers into some 3.90-4.11 gears.

Pat
 
From factory the three biggest power restricters on a 318 was the pistons sitting down in the hole so far,small two carb and the exhaust manifolds.You have one taken care of so it's up to you to decide if your going to address the other two.The pistons are a bit more involved and the headers can be a huge pain,raising the engine and removing the drag link but you will feel a big difference from the stock 318 manifolds.That being said without a piston upgrade a set of 340 or 360 manifolds may be good enough for your tastes.Also a set of cheap headers will probably be cheaper and easier to find than a set of 340 mainfolds.My opinion is to get headers as they will fit any small block and if you ever upgrade the engine with better internals or an engine swap you will be covered.
 
ive seen the use of the 90s magnum manifolds on the early A bodys alot at shows, i know they do flow sweet but im not sure how much of a difference, but i can tell you that when i put headers on my car, it feels alive and has a sweet tone that is unmistakable!!
 
Divenut said:
I knew you'd chime before too long in with the ole standby post Lance. :D

& X2 on the Cheap Headers. Putting the money I saved on my cheap headers into some 3.90-4.11 gears.

Pat
Click to expand...

LOL Pat :cheers:


I have been running these every single day for the last 2 years. I also live in the sticks and on dirt roads with plenty of ditches and pot holes. I like them and I will use them any day of the week LOL
the 500 bucks I saved on a set of shorties has been spent where I really need it
 
Headers work. Thats about all there is to it. 340 manifolds will run you more than headers and not work near as well.
 
73AbodEE said:
here we go again

my cheap *** long tube hooker headers
don't leak
don't burn wires
are not bashed in
took me all of 3 hours to put on
the paint still looks good after 2 years

they get a bad wrap because the people that use them try to drop the front end 2 inches off the ground

I have old 6 cylinder torsion bars and old shocks on top of it all
Click to expand...

I had been looking at a set of hooker headers. Did you have any issues with them coming to close to the starter?
 
Too header or not is the question you ask but my question to you in regards to the engine and car set up is what do you want out of it.

What is your 318's compression ratio? Is it enough to support the RPM cam?

Generally speaking, yes it is worth it if max power and a more effceint running engine is what your after. The MM mags link above shows power differences on a larger but much much tamer cammed engine at a level where I myself would not bother with headers since the build is just lame in the power department.

Also, there are much better cams the. The RPM cam that are also designed for use with a exhaust manifolds in use.
 
fnaramore said:
I had been looking at a set of hooker headers. Did you have any issues with them coming to close to the starter?
Click to expand...
nope , no problems what-so-ever. I am still using my factory starter. you will need to get a short PH43 or equivalent oil filter.
 
Get 1 5/8 tubes headers. They will be a great improvement over manifolds. And fit without issues. Have them ceramic coated in and out before install . Headers rust real quick.
 
fnaramore said:
I had been looking at a set of hooker headers. Did you have any issues with them coming to close to the starter?
Click to expand...

I have hooker comps, and like Lance noted, they clear the OEM starter fine. Though I did remove the drivers side when pulling the starter...makes it much easier to get out.

Pat
 
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