@Wow did I go the wrong way

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Jo Diesel

Jo Diesel

My other car is a Dodge
Joined
Nov 24, 2010
Messages
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Location
St. Johns MI
Ran in an Auto Cross a Month ago and car didn't do so well.
I lowered the front 1" went from 255/60/15 Firehawks to 275/60/15 Yokohamas in the rear, and took my subs, amp and spare out of the trunk which combined for almost 100 lbs.
Now it lifts the inside rear tire off the ground on hard turns and I think I smoked my Suregrip.
Found I need to totally unbolt dr header so I can put my power steering on so that is a winter project. Think torsion bars and subframe connectors are next. Already have a 1 1/8" front sway bar. Putting the Firehawks back on, they grip better.
ANY OTHER IDEAS?
 
AdamR said:
way to much side wall. You want a short sidewall for handling
Click to expand...

i agree but the flip side is some done like the big wheel look. this is the reason (and budget) i am going 255/50-16's, shorten the sidewall a bit but not have the rubber band look.

OP, have you rebuilt the front end? upgraded shocks? got a modern alignment (specs)
 
Front End is original but all still tight with newer gas shocks, /6 bars. Ball joints and tie rod ends have about 10 K miles. Hard to remember how long ago as I have only put 50 K miles on it since I bought it in 1980.
Alignment is Toe streight or 0, Camber is L 0 R - 1/2` Caster is 1 1/2`
Almost bought some 18's but money is going into front suspension on my dart
 
You would have to have a lot of body roll to lift the tire off the ground. probably just "unloading" the wheel. A rear sway bar will help. The Hotchkis kits are the least expensive for a comprehensive set up. U can probably figure out which parts u need by comparing what you already have and what is listed in the kit. Then fab or pick used parts till you have a nice setup. But they have already done "All" the homework for you. Save time. And save money if you include all the trial and error. Unless you like having all the "Spare" parts lying around like some of us. LOL
 
get caster closer to 2 1/2 degrees first. then 0 to .4 neg camber. 0 toe is ok. Rt side camber will be more neg. with u in the seat. depending on you weight. have the alignment check with you in and out of the car for comparison.
 
X 2 on the rear anti-roll bar and stiffer front T-bars.

IMO the sub frame connectors are a step in the right direction.

I know that it looks cool to rake the car forward either with springs or larger rear tires. However, this transfers weight forward which promotes understeer and the hiked rear leg bit you described.

The NASCAR guys do the forward rake thing, in part, because they are using the hood and rear deck lid to help stick the car to the pavement on the superspeedways. This isn't really is a consideration for autocross or solo events I've been a party to.
 
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