Wrong slant 6 pressure plate

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ndeconte

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Hey everyone,

Looking for some help......

Purchased this clutch assembly for my 66 Valiant slant 6 auto to 4 speed conversion and its the wrong pressure plate.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CNJZKG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

When assembling, there's a good size gap between the pressure plate and the flywheel Which is caused by not enough offset to compensate for the clutch material.

It's the correct size for the flywheel and the correct spline ocount for the transmission tho.

Where can I find the correct part number for the pressure plate to use for this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Maybe don’t buy your set up off Amazon?
Try Brewers or Passion or Mancini.
They cost more but the parts are better quality. In this day and age China builds it and the quality fit and finish is not the same as factory.
 
It almost sounds as if the pressure plate surface has been machined too much. I agree with getting an actual KNOWN good name brand, instead of the cheapest ching ching crappola you can possible find.
 
I bought mine from Brewer after I had a issue with a E bay set up. I don't know if they have that set up any more. THey do have heavy duty slant 6 and 273 sets that would last forever behind your leaning tower of power. I see Rockauto has osme 9 1/4" and 10" kits listed. I would trust the Precision brand they offer.

 
Hey everyone,

Looking for some help......

Purchased this clutch assembly for my 66 Valiant slant 6 auto to 4 speed conversion and its the wrong pressure plate.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CNJZKG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

When assembling, there's a good size gap between the pressure plate and the flywheel Which is caused by not enough offset to compensate for the clutch material.

It's the correct size for the flywheel and the correct spline ocount for the transmission tho.

Where can I find the correct part number for the pressure plate to use for this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Where is this gap on the pressure plate? Is it at the friction surfaces, or at the flywheel/pressure plate bolts?
First, make sure you have the clutch disc installed the right way- spring pack to the pressure plate side.
Now, when you add the pressure plate, there SHOULD be a gap between the PP's mount tabs and the flywheel surface- this is what provides the clamping tension of the disc between the PP and the flywheel. Insert your alignment tool, and start drawing up your PP bolts gradually and evenly in a star pattern- the "gap" will gradually disappear. The clutch disc should now be tightly sandwiched between the flywheel and the pressure plate. This is why it's called a "pressure" plate and is what creates the mechanical link between the engine and transmission. The plate will now not release until your linkage is installed, and the pedal is depressed.
 
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i agree with above as you do up the levers or the diaphragm centre sinks
you will find it much easier to fit your release bearing carrier and fork.

if you have no alignment tool use your socket extention to get it nearly right
bolt it up
fit the throw out bearing and fork
undo all clucth pressure plate bolts to "just gripping" clutch plate level
install trans onto the bell
do up all clutch over bolts

avoids the fight when the plate is not properly aligned....clutch swap at track or side of road this way works

and you will soon know if the clutch plate is in backwards, your clutch plate cushdrive/ sprung centre will machine a groove through the bolt heads that hold the flywheel on... makes a bit of noise and the car tries to drive through the wall with clutch in or out.

:) and you never do that again.


one other thing... some flyhweels have a dowel or 2 and some clutch pressure plates have only 1 or 2 dowel holes if yours is a dowelled set up the dowels need to align with holes in the cover.


Dave
 
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