WTB: wiring harness

-
Status
Not open for further replies.
I have some from a 67 barracuda, I don't know if it's the same but I'm 1 hour north of you if you want to check it out. Mike.
 
Barracuda would be different at the inst' panel connections.
 
I have a 69 valiant dash harness on very nice condition. Send me a pm if interested.
 
You are right about the high cost of repros. I am parting out a 6 cylinder 67 Dart with AC. I'll have it apart this afternoon. I sell used harnesses for $25-$75 depending on how good they are. I'll know later on if I have anything for you.
Greg
 
If I were you, I wouldn't use a use harness, remember their age, they are a big cause of car fires. It's like taking a shower and putting your dirty underware on.

Painless wiring harnesses won't work, they have GM connections

This is my suggestion, and remember you get what you pay for.

mopar charlie
 
I agree 100% with mopar charlie! I had wiring problems in my Dart and almost burnt it down in my driveway. Like Mopar Charlie says you are working with a wiring harness that is old. One of the best things I did for my peace of mind was buying a new wiring harness from Year One. Believe me it was NOT in the budget but well worth it once I was done.
 
Painless harnesses can be easily adapted if you know how to use a soldering iron or a crimping tool. I re-wired my entire car with a Painless Harness that many had horror stories with. Maybe I got lucky, or maybe it was the two months of relaxed time that I took to complete it, but it works flawlessly.

If you are looking for reliability and plug-n-play, then YearOne is the way to go. No need starting a car fire to save a few bucks.

-Mike
 
There is only one cause for 95% of all Mopar underdash/wiring issues, and that is a short or grounding at the alternator gauge. If a used harness shows no signs of having been burned, and you take all the precautions to make sure the posts on the alternator gauge are insulated and can't contact the aluminum housing, there is zero chance of having any issues. Repro harnesses are obscenely overpriced, not to mention made from materials that have no "track record"...sourced from God only knows where. The originals are of a known origin and quality.
If I were building a car that had any value, either to me or the market, there is no way, no how I would even CONSIDER using a repro harness. I have in the past had to piece together two or three used harnesses to come up with one good one. In my opinion, that is the only way to go.
 
the REPRO WIRING HARNESSES ARE MADE IN THE USA >>>>>>

M & H ELECTRICAL in California, IS THE SOURCE FOR ALL REPRODUCTION HARNESSES, and they have a agreement with yearone, not some chinese lousy wiring harness

I have been using the harnesses for many years, they are the best parts money can buy

It's your car, and your money

Lots of luck

MOPAR CHARLIE

:coffee2:
 
Assembled in the USA and MADE in the USA are not exactly the same thing. Show me the actual origin of the wire and rubber and I may loosen my opinion...slightly. There is NOTHING wrong with 40 year old wire, providing it has never been overheated, and that is an obvious issue when it happens.
Here's the bottom line. There is plenty of repro **** out there...problem is, nearly all of it is just that...****. Looks good when it comes out of the box, but a couple of seasons worth of normal exposure, and it all starts to show its true colors. If there are zero options, then yeah, repro is the way to go. BUT, if you can find a quality original part, it is ALWAYS better than what can be sourced through the aftermarket.
 
Assembled in the USA and MADE in the USA are not exactly the same thing. Show me the actual origin of the wire and rubber and I may loosen my opinion...slightly. There is NOTHING wrong with 40 year old wire, providing it has never been overheated, and that is an obvious issue when it happens.
Here's the bottom line. There is plenty of repro **** out there...problem is, nearly all of it is just that...****. Looks good when it comes out of the box, but a couple of seasons worth of normal exposure, and it all starts to show its true colors. If there are zero options, then yeah, repro is the way to go. BUT, if you can find a quality original part, it is ALWAYS better than what can be sourced through the aftermarket.

I would only warn anybody looking to use an old harness to carefully check each wire. Old wire insulation dries and cracks with age/heat. Also, it is always very important to insure that the proper gauge wire is utilized for the intended circuits.

As long as your are using the correct gauge wire and the wire insulation/terminals are in good working order, there's not much else to it. Either way, it's either going to cost money or time. I guess it depends which is more valuable to you.

-Mike
 
I would only warn anybody looking to use an old harness to carefully check each wire. Old wire insulation dries and cracks with age/heat. Also, it is always very important to insure that the proper gauge wire is utilized for the intended circuits.

As long as your are using the correct gauge wire and the wire insulation/terminals are in good working order, there's not much else to it. Either way, it's either going to cost money or time. I guess it depends which is more valuable to you.

-Mike


I'm dealing in these parts for 35 years, and have yet to see any of the factory harnesses FROM THAT ERA have any issues with insulation breaking down under normal circumstances. Normal meaning, no acid, or excessive weather exposure, etc. Engine harnesses are an exception, as underhood heat and oil/dirt do take a toll.
Talking about dash harnesses...by their nature, they are buried in the car and not exposed to any elements beyond normal temperature variations. I have pulled them out of 45 year old cars that were completely trashed, dusted them off, and it would be impossible to tell they ever did anything but sit on a shelf.
Here's the warning to those willing to take a chance on Repro harnesses...and this is first hand experience. Keep in mind, that when I was in the regular repair business, I always specialized in automotive electronics.
Beginning in the early 80's, Ford started to source its wire from overseas suppliers. After about 5 or 6 years of nothing but normal use, the insulation on these wires would begin to self destruct. They dried out and became chalky...all you had to do was touch the wire, and the insulatiuon would crumble and flake off. It was a NIGHTMARE working with this stuff, and bad wires sent more of those cars to the crusher prematurely than you could imagine. I have no way to know whether or not the material used in the repro harnesses won't show the same type of issues after several years of use. I'll stick with the PROVEN materials!
I handle and work with this stuff every day of my life. If there was any doubt or any question as to the quality of the wiring in the cars of this era, I would know it and I would tell you.
 
I'm dealing in these parts for 35 years, and have yet to see any of the factory harnesses FROM THAT ERA have any issues with insulation breaking down under normal circumstances. Normal meaning, no acid, or excessive weather exposure, etc. Engine harnesses are an exception, as underhood heat and oil/dirt do take a toll.
Talking about dash harnesses...by their nature, they are buried in the car and not exposed to any elements beyond normal temperature variations. I have pulled them out of 45 year old cars that were completely trashed, dusted them off, and it would be impossible to tell they ever did anything but sit on a shelf.
Here's the warning to those willing to take a chance on Repro harnesses...and this is first hand experience. Keep in mind, that when I was in the regular repair business, I always specialized in automotive electronics.
Beginning in the early 80's, Ford started to source its wire from overseas suppliers. After about 5 or 6 years of nothing but normal use, the insulation on these wires would begin to self destruct. They dried out and became chalky...all you had to do was touch the wire, and the insulatiuon would crumble and flake off. It was a NIGHTMARE working with this stuff, and bad wires sent more of those cars to the crusher prematurely than you could imagine. I have no way to know whether or not the material used in the repro harnesses won't show the same type of issues after several years of use. I'll stick with the PROVEN materials!
I handle and work with this stuff every day of my life. If there was any doubt or any question as to the quality of the wiring in the cars of this era, I would know it and I would tell you.

Good point about the harness being tucked behind the dash. There is a definite lack of exposure there. Parts of my harness had deteriorated, but I believe it was mostly the headlight, engine, and tailight sections.

To the OP, I think there's plenty of information here to go on. It sounds like a nice used Dash harness is the way to go. It would also help being plug-n-play. If not, perhaps the aftermarket route is the only way.

-Mike
 
my 69 harness is in great condition and wires are very flexible, so i disagree with above comments. not all old harness are junk. may not work with his 67 not sure. just commenting on the old harnesses. i have a lot of harnesses that are still like new!
 
what is there difference between the dart and the Valaint the reason i ask is i think i saw some on the detroit metro craiges list for the dart
 
I just installed my third or fourth engine harness made by Bill Evans. Here is his online catalog address. http://www.evanswiring.com/catalog.htm They are very nice harnesses with nice flexible wiring and quality connections. For points ignition they are only $99. And for a little more he will customize them a bit for electronic ign. and if you need a longer length wire for a different location.
I had him make up a harness for a '67 Imperial Coupe I worked on a couple years ago and it made the job a whole lot simpler. I highly recommend him and the ability to actually communicate with the person doing the work. Jim
 
I just installed my third or fourth engine harness made by Bill Evans. Here is his online catalog address. http://www.evanswiring.com/catalog.htm They are very nice harnesses with nice flexible wiring and quality connections. For points ignition they are only $99. And for a little more he will customize them a bit for electronic ign. and if you need a longer length wire for a different location.
I had him make up a harness for a '67 Imperial Coupe I worked on a couple years ago and it made the job a whole lot simpler. I highly recommend him and the ability to actually communicate with the person doing the work. Jim

engine harness only for that cheap. but the factory harness come with the headlight harness together. that is 245 to 260
 
Sorry, the 67 Imperial harness did come with the headlight harness as well and was more money. What I installed 2 days ago was an engine harness in a 65 Barracuda and is was $137 shipped to me. My customer had installed a mopar electronic distributor and relocated the ign. module to the upper inner fender and added a later style voltage regulator (and alternator) and moved it and the coil to the inner fender. I texted a couple of pics to Bill and the wiring harness was here in 2 days. I would really like to see that done with Year One. Just offering an alternative that works for me.
 
Sorry, the 67 Imperial harness did come with the headlight harness as well and was more money. What I installed 2 days ago was an engine harness in a 65 Barracuda and is was $137 shipped to me. My customer had installed a mopar electronic distributor and relocated the ign. module to the upper inner fender and added a later style voltage regulator (and alternator) and moved it and the coil to the inner fender. I texted a couple of pics to Bill and the wiring harness was here in 2 days. I would really like to see that done with Year One. Just offering an alternative that works for me.

yes they do nice work.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
-
Back
Top