YES 5.9 Magnum manifolds work in early A bodies. Here is exactly how!

-
The distance between the steering shaft and the manifold is very close. A little tiny bit of the pin barely touches the manifold when it turns. The shaft itself does not touch but it’s probably between a 16th and an eighth of an inch distance

Did you try loosening the column plate and pushing the whole plate column and all to the left? There is some room to be had there if you did not.
 
When you say large hole vs small hole, you referring to the port size? What’s best for fairly stock 318 or does it matter?
The large hole manifolds that I am talking about are the 96/97/98 Jeep Grand Cherokee (JGC) manifolds. The have a 2 1/8" exit hole, compared to the small hole magnum manifold that has a 1 5/8 or 1 7/8 exit hole. To compare, the 340 manifolds are 2 3/16", which is 1/16" larger than the JGC manifold. There are some 92/93 manifolds that are also large hole but they are designed differently. Unfortunately the JGC driver's manifold will not work on an A body BUT....the passenger's side fits like a glove and can be machined out (ported) to the same size as the 340 manifold. If you can find a driver's 340 manifold you can easily find a JGC manifold for 30/40 bucks!!!
 
The large hole manifolds that I am talking about are the 96/97/98 Jeep Grand Cherokee (JGC) manifolds. The have a 2 1/8" exit hole, compared to the small hole magnum manifold that has a 1 5/8 or 1 7/8 exit hole. To compare, the 340 manifolds are 2 3/16", which is 1/16" larger than the JGC manifold. There are some 92/93 manifolds that are also large hole but they are designed differently. Unfortunately the JGC driver's manifold will not work on an A body BUT....the passenger's side fits like a glove and can be machined out (ported) to the same size as the 340 manifold. If you can find a driver's 340 manifold you can easily find a JGC manifold for 30/40 bucks!!!
What keeps the JGC drivers side manifold from fitting?
 
That's is cool what about later a bodies wonder how they would fit in them?
 
I’d imagine they’d fit better since the engine bays are bigger.
Yea that's what I was thinking too I have a set off a ram I may try it for kicks and giggles. I'm kinda second guessing headers anyway
 
Yea that's what I was thinking too I have a set off a ram I may try it for kicks and giggles. I'm kinda second guessing headers anyway
Yeah I’m investigating my options as well. I currently have cheap headers on my car that scrape from time to time and when I install my HDK suspension I’ll be dropping the car even lower. So instead of coughing up money for Doug’s or TTI’s, I’m thinking of going with manifolds or buying a set of $75 ram shorty headers on eBay and seeing if I can make them work.
 
What keeps the JGC drivers side manifold from fitting?
The JGC is a Mopar but it has a newer Jeep engine. The Jeep engine was designed with its' starter on the passenger's side. Our Mopars have the starter on the driver's side. The Jeep, with its' starter on the passenger's side, has a ton of room in the space that our Mopars have a starter. With all this extra space where our starters normally live the Jeep engineers decided to use this space for the manifold to be. As a result the Jeep driver's manifold exits where our cars have a starter. I only know this fact because I attempted, for many many hours, to install a JGC driver's manifold in my 69 Barracuda. The Jeep manifold ran right into the Barracuda starter no matter what I tried ( I also had installed the smaller later starter to increase the space in that area). If you install a Jeep motor (318 or 360) in your Mopar you could probably use the Jeep driver's manifold. You're welcome to try this for yourself but with our Mopar starter on the driver's side I don't see any way it can be done. If it could be done someone would have already done it!! On the other hand (right hand...LOL) the JGC passenger's side manifold fits like glove on our Mopars and offers much better flow. So if you can find/get a 340 driver's manifold it's a piece of cake since the JGC manifolds normally sell for $25-$40 at most car salvage yards!!!
 
Yeah I’m investigating my options as well. I currently have cheap headers on my car that scrape from time to time and when I install my HDK suspension I’ll be dropping the car even lower. So instead of coughing up money for Doug’s or TTI’s, I’m thinking of going with manifolds or buying a set of $75 ram shorty headers on eBay and seeing if I can make them work.
I have two sets of 360 manifolds one off a magnum truck the other is off a 77 charger I think they where f bodies maybe? I'm not sure. I may do some testing and see what will fit. I like the performance side if headers but prefer the original look of manifolds. And there is the ground clearing issue and rusting out and pita to change plugs etc! Lol
 
The JGC is a Mopar but it has a newer Jeep engine. The Jeep engine was designed with its' starter on the passenger's side. Our Mopars have the starter on the driver's side. The Jeep, with its' starter on the passenger's side, has a ton of room in the space that our Mopars have a starter. With all this extra space where our starters normally live the Jeep engineers decided to use this space for the manifold to be. As a result the Jeep driver's manifold exits where our cars have a starter. I only know this fact because I attempted, for many many hours, to install a JGC driver's manifold in my 69 Barracuda. The Jeep manifold ran right into the Barracuda starter no matter what I tried ( I also had installed the smaller later starter to increase the space in that area). If you install a Jeep motor (318 or 360) in your Mopar you could probably use the Jeep driver's manifold. You're welcome to try this for yourself but with our Mopar starter on the driver's side I don't see any way it can be done. If it could be done someone would have already done it!! On the other hand (right hand...LOL) the JGC passenger's side manifold fits like glove on our Mopars and offers much better flow. So if you can find/get a 340 driver's manifold it's a piece of cake since the JGC manifolds normally sell for $25-$40 at most car salvage yards!!!
Thanks for the explanation! I’d completely forgot about the fact that the Jeeps have the starter on the “wrong” side.
 
I have two sets of 360 manifolds one off a magnum truck the other is off a 77 charger I think they where f bodies maybe? I'm not sure. I may do some testing and see what will fit. I like the performance side if headers but prefer the original look of manifolds. And there is the ground clearing issue and rusting out and pita to change plugs etc! Lol
Those will probably not have the large 2 1/8" exit hole like the JGC manifolds. Check and see....let us know??
 
I have two sets of 360 manifolds one off a magnum truck the other is off a 77 charger I think they where f bodies maybe? I'm not sure. I may do some testing and see what will fit. I like the performance side if headers but prefer the original look of manifolds. And there is the ground clearing issue and rusting out and pita to change plugs etc! Lol
Header/manifold dyno test
 
FYI..........that manifold test did not try the JGC manifolds, especially the ones that I machined out to the same size (or larger) than the 340 manifolds!!
Yeah I really wish they would’ve tested magnum manifolds
 
That is interesting. I cant believe the 360 manifolds performed so close eith the 340s
Remember that the magnum engine (as it's known) was made for many years AND all or most of the manifolds on these magnum engines were referred to as "magnum" manifolds. BUT.......... as it turns out, most of these "magnum" manifolds were NOT the large hole (2 1/8") manifolds. There were some large hole manifolds made in 92/93 (Dakota manifolds I think) and some made that came on trucks and vans in different years. I researched these manifolds for many years. I purchased many, many so called "magnum" manifolds and conducted many experiments. At one time I had as many as 30 sets of manifolds.
DSC03997.JPG
DSC04054.JPG


DSC04239.JPG


I measured all of them and test fitted many of them on our Mopar engines. Some of the large hole truck/van manifolds will work on the passenger's side but exit very close to the firewall and will introduce "heat" into the firewall. I found that the JGC manifold (96/97/98) fits perfect, even better than an original 318 manifold. Just remember that just because a manifold came off a magnum engine it doesn't mean that it has the 2 1/8" exit hole.
 
I'm going to try this In my 75 dart. What down pipes are you using? Did you have to make them or will any abody down pipe fit? Sorry if this had already been covered.
 
I'm going to try this In my 75 dart. What down pipes are you using? Did you have to make them or will any abody down pipe fit? Sorry if this had already been covered.

This was custom made while the engine and the 340 exhaust manifold was installed on the driver's side. I used a section of mandrel bent J pipe but it's actually better to use a mandrel bent 2 1/4" donut. The passenger's side (JGC) is a piece of cake for anyone. This was in a '69 Barracuda (318).

DSC03458.JPG
DSC03460.JPG
DSC03463.JPG
DSC03464.JPG
DSC03465.JPG
 
This was custom made while the engine and the 340 exhaust manifold was installed on the driver's side. I used a section of mandrel bent J pipe but it's actually better to use a mandrel bent 2 1/4" donut. The passenger's side (JGC) is a piece of cake for anyone.

View attachment 1715608690 View attachment 1715608691 View attachment 1715608692 View attachment 1715608693 View attachment 1715608694
Thanks that is awesome. What flange did you use for that? So you welded the flange on the prebent tubing?
 
Thanks that is awesome. What flange did you use for that? So you welded the flange on the prebent tubing?
Yes, that's the only way it can be done if you want mandrel bent pipe. Walker sells the flat flange on ebay. The donut can also be found on ebay. You have to weld the mandrel bent pipe to the flat flared end with the flange in place. Most muffler shop can put a flat flare on some 2 1/4" pipe.

DSC04192.JPG
DSC04193.JPG
DSC04195.JPG
DSC04197.JPG
DSC04200.JPG
DSC04203.JPG
 
Yes, that's the only way it can be done if you want mandrel bent pipe. Walker sells the flat flange on ebay. The donut can also be found on ebay. You have to weld the mandrel bent pipe to the flat flared end with the flange in place. Most muffler shop can put a flat flare on some 2 1/4" pipe.

View attachment 1715608704 View attachment 1715608705 View attachment 1715608706 View attachment 1715608707 View attachment 1715608708 View attachment 1715608709
Thanks man that is awesome that gives me all kinds of ideas and options!
 
Thanks man that is awesome that gives me all kinds of ideas and options!
You're welcome. Although I figured out a way to make the downpipe on the bench, the easiest way to do it is to install the manifold in your car and piece it together under the car so that it clears everything and fits well. You can tack weld the pieces in place and when you have it exactly in the right place (orientation) you can remove it and weld it up 100 percent. This way it fits your set up perfectly.
 
You're welcome. Although I figured out a way to make the downpipe on the bench, the easiest way to do it is to install the manifold in your car and piece it together under the car so that it clears everything and fits well. You can tack weld the pieces in place and when you have it exactly in the right place (orientation) you can remove it and weld it up 100 percent. This way it fits your set up perfectly.
Yea that is what I was thinking too. Kinda from it up in the car then take it back out and weld it up and reinstall it.
 
-
Back
Top