Your Opinion and Suggestions please.

-
6

69Chrgr

Charger/Cuda
Joined
Jan 29, 2007
Messages
421
Reaction score
17
Location
Midlothian, Texas
O.k., so far, I have a 408 stroker kit with untouched Eddy's for my 360magnum. Should yield around 10.0:1 comp. I bought Compcams "Camquest" equipped with a dyno sim. The sim made for some interesting hp outcomes, however it is just a simulator. Trying to decide what cam, hydraulic or solid(both roller). It's not a daily driver, so it can be fairly radical, just want to be able to drive it to the local car show now and then, and maybe start dragracing a little. What kind of hp could I realistically make? I appreciate any honest opinions and suggestions. Thanks!
 
Apparently this will be more of a street type engine as the 10:1 ratio would suggest so a cam in the 245-260 range at .050 would be the low and high ends and give some streetability, depending on centerlines.
I would think that something like a 248/256 with a 108/116 would be very good, these are just some #'s that I came up with not a actual grind, but could be ground.
The Eddy's will need some work to take advantage of the cam that you choose, so port the heads for the cam that you pick. If you have a cam thats lift is .600 then porting for .610 or more is of no a count, so you want to make all the flow you can @.550 and less as you will pass these areas twice as opposed to being at peak once. I would think that a good bowl cleanup and gasket matching and a good valve job should take care of this.IMO
 
What if I want to leave the Eddy's as they are? Are they restrictive? I appreciate your reply as you seem to be knowledegable on this topic. I guess I should have had Indy do some port work huh?
 
It's just that Edlebrock's have some issues with there QC and some things need to be addressed. But most anything that you will do to a stock as cast port will help, by this I mean removing any sharp edges and radiusing, then narrowing up the valve job that comes with the heads will be a plus. This will help to increase the flow at low lifts and help mid lifts also and this is where you want the heads to flow the best. Most cams that are in the range that I posted will be in the .550 -.600 range and all the flow you can get up to .500 will be best.
 
I've foudn the bowls to be ok out of the box. The exhaust guides are too tight for my taste, and the small amount of taper they leave at the port openings is nice to remove. I blend them back about 1" into the ports, and that's it. I wouldnt enlarge anything for what you want to do with the engine. I would also be very careful in regard to valve springs. "Works with cams to .600 lift" is a misleading statement. I've had to replace springs on 80% of my builds using Edelbrock heads, because what they include would be maxxed out with some cam choices. I prefer to run a little more spring so on street engines they last longer. And you base spring choice on the lobe shape much more tha total lift. As an example, running a douuble spring instead of the singles they have, so the spring is operating at 70% of capacity as opposed to a signle spring operating at 100%. Also, I agree with BJRs cam specs at .050. But I would keep lift in the .580 range for solid rollers, and .550 in hyrdraulics. Personally, I'll run a solid flat tappet before i run a hydraulic roller. If someone wants a roller, go solid and prep the block for it.
 
Heres a cam thought for you; http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-20-741-9&autoview=sku

Depending on the level of work performed, your looking at 10 - 100 HP build dependent. Just cleaning up the bowl area and port windows with a back cutting on the valves can be a noticeable improvement. Again, build dependent.

A little work, something like described above could add 30 -60 HP.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top