Actually, The MP distributor dropped from 14 to 12 at 3500 rpm. I thought something was wrong with the machine LOL.
Initially, I found this occurred at 25* for this engine, but I dropped it back to 20* to maintain, what I thought, was a good t slot/idle mixture screw relationship.
BTW, idle is set at 850 Rpm.
I was under the impression that to get idle rpm, you keep advancing until additional timing does not increase rpm, then drop it back a couple of degrees.Sorry. Had these conversations before and most of the time they go nowhere, and I've been too busy at work to even log on to FABO.
First thing you probably don't want to hear is that engine should not need or want 20 deg initial.
In fact discussed this with on a thread a few a months ago, it might have been with you, where the engine was on a test stand.
As stated above in this thread. No load on the engine doesn't tell us much about what an engine will need when loaded.
An engine load is based on the percentage of power being used versus the max it could make at that rpm.
If it takes 10 hp to turn the transmission pump and the engine with accessories is making 20 hp net at 600 rpm, then 10 hp is causing 50% load, which is fairly high.
Initially, I found this occurred at 25* for this engine, but I dropped it back to 20* to maintain, what I thought, was a good t slot/idle mixture screw relationship.
So, if I reduced the primary spring tension (perch adjustment) and had it coming in a little quicker (steepen the first little section) and leave the rest as is, what would your opinion of that be?The OEM recurve will be a little bit more sluggish off idle unless you've set idle too high to begin with. Otherwise it will be pretty good and probably won't retard until 5500 rpm or so.
BTW, idle is set at 850 Rpm.