Your thoughts on this engine (photos included)

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Saverio

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Hi Everyone -
So I have a chance to buy this Scamp and I'm looking for some advice from you all to see if anything in these photos of the engine jumps out at you. I understand that hearing it and driving it are going to be the real test but, the car is actually about 5hrs away from me - so i'm looking for any advice.

The car is currently in the "country" (dirt roads, etc) - so I don't mind some dust.....

Any comments are appreciated! Thanks!


https://www.dropbox.com/s/ldv28ysm7en1ewk/DSCN3192.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ac5cpzb9f764l8h/DSCN3193.jpg
 
Looks like the standard 318 2 bbl engine on my 75 Dart except for the silver colored valve? in front of the carb.
 
It looks like a normal 318 of that ere that has aftermarket valve covers on.

The "areas of concern" look like normal leakage from an engine with some miles on it.

then there is that "valve" before the carb, whatever that is...


It looks ok. SB with power brakes, power steering, a/c, and electronic ignition.
 
Thanks a lot everyone, I really appreciate your comments! If I end up buying it, I'll post some photos. :)
 
I would be more concerned about how It runs

Exactly - and I am. I just wasn't sure if visually there was anything to be alarmed about (since it's a bit of a drive).
 
Looks good , no major rust on the inner fenders . Looks like a good car to start with
 
I agree. In fact, I ended up getting it. I put it through the ultimate test of driving it 200+ miles through the Colorado mountains. It performed awesome! So far, all I've had to do is replace the thermostat. Next will be leaf springs & timing chain kit...because reading other comments makes me nervous as hel about the timing chainl. View attachment image.jpg

This is the first Mopar I've ever owned. I'm excited, and sometimes nervous, about doing things myself - so thanks for your comments.
 
Cool acquisition-unless the engine has 150k+ miles on it, I wouldn't be overly concerned about the timing set...thankfully, they're not terribly difficult to change. Grab some gaskets, maybe look into getting some new fasteners to replace the ones that may be badly rusted, a couple gallons of coolant, and whatever else you tear up on the way in :)
 
It looks well cared for. The most expensive thing that I can see is the possible leak at the radiator neck. If the problem can be solved by installing a different radiator cap, it's a cheap fix. A replacement radiator, unless you want numbers matching NOS stock, is not too bad.

The EGR valve is a cheap fix. Replace it.

The oil leaks are gasket issues. The gaskets are not expensive. It may run into money for the front cover gasket if you have to pay someone else to replace it.
 

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It looks well cared for. The most expensive thing that I can see is the possible leak at the radiator neck. If the problem can be solved by installing a different radiator cap, it's a cheap fix. A replacement radiator, unless you want numbers matching NOS stock, is not too bad.

The EGR valve is a cheap fix. Replace it.

The oil leaks are gasket issues. The gaskets are not expensive. It may run into money for the front cover gasket if you have to pay someone else to replace it.

Hey thanks for taking the time to go through this with the suggestions. EGR and PCV valves have been changed, as well as the breather cap on the valve cover (that thing was black as night). Since the valve covers seemed to be leaking oil from the bolts, I decided to check their torque and guess what? None of them were even remotely up to snuff. I re-torqued them to spec, cleaned all of the old oil off of the engine and have not had a single leak. The carb seemed to be running a little rich, but I think that may have been due to the seller living at a high elevation.

I have to say, in the short time I've been on this board, I've found nothing buy helpful information from a great bunch of people.
 
Cool acquisition-unless the engine has 150k+ miles on it, I wouldn't be overly concerned about the timing set...thankfully, they're not terribly difficult to change. Grab some gaskets, maybe look into getting some new fasteners to replace the ones that may be badly rusted, a couple gallons of coolant, and whatever else you tear up on the way in :)

Thanks for easing my worried mind, haha! Luckily the engine has 63k on it but, it'll definitely be something I'll keep an eye on.
 
Thanks for easing my worried mind, haha! Luckily the engine has 63k on it but, it'll definitely be something I'll keep an eye on.

I would change the timing chain in the near future. The stock chains are JUNK. I've seen them ready to jump a tooth by 84,000 miles on "an old man's car"...

I gained 1 - 1 1/2 MPG from replacing the stock 318 chains with a double roller true roller. Here's a good chain at a reasonable price that I've run over 250,000 miles with no problems.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/edelbrock4.html
 
You'll read a lot both ways concerning the timing chain. The SB Mopar does have a pretty long timing chain due to the cam being mounted up high in the block and you'll usually find a nylon top gear in it so IMO it's not the ideal design (referring to the nylon top gear) even if they do last 100,000+ miles in stock form. Every engine I've pulled apart to do a timing chain that has the nylon top gear has lost a lot of the nylon and guess where it ends up, plugging the oil pump pickup. The absolute worst place it could be IMO. To make things worse dropping the oil pan to clean it all out is a major PITA. I wouldn't be worried about doing a timing chain immediately with that low mileage but I'd put it on the list to do sometime in the near future. A good value in timing chain sets is the Summit Billet double roller set.

BTW: beautiful car
 
I wouldn't be worried about doing a timing chain immediately with that low mileage but I'd put it on the list to do sometime in the near future. A good value in timing chain sets is the Summit Billet double roller set.

What he said...
 
You'll read a lot both ways concerning the timing chain. The SB Mopar does have a pretty long timing chain due to the cam being mounted up high in the block and you'll usually find a nylon top gear in it so IMO it's not the ideal design (referring to the nylon top gear) even if they do last 100,000+ miles in stock form. Every engine I've pulled apart to do a timing chain that has the nylon top gear has lost a lot of the nylon and guess where it ends up, plugging the oil pump pickup. The absolute worst place it could be IMO. To make things worse dropping the oil pan to clean it all out is a major PITA. I wouldn't be worried about doing a timing chain immediately with that low mileage but I'd put it on the list to do sometime in the near future. A good value in timing chain sets is the Summit Billet double roller set.

BTW: beautiful car
Back in the 80's I bought a 72 challenger for $400 because of low oil pressure. Changed the timing set and pulled the pan and cleaned the pickup and everything was fine.
 
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