Z bar alignment

-
BTW here'a tip for all you M/T guys that haven't figured this out yet;
With headers, and TTIs specifically, making periodic freeplay adjustments can be a royal PITA; am I right? The worst is locking it down, so you don't have to do it again in a week after it backs off. You know the routine; dinking around the hot header-pipes with two open-end wrenches.
Here's my solution, if you have at least an inch of extra rod sticking out the back.Pull the rod out, and disassemble it. Drill a small hole in it about a quarter of an inch from the end, on the adjusting end so the hole will be vertical when installed. 1/16" should do it.
Now set the lock nut aside, and reassemble it. Go find a short spacer that will slide over the adjusting threads;about a half inch long or a bit longer. Slide it on and then install the locknut.Reinstall the rod and set the freeplay. Torque the lock nut from the back now, with a ratchet and a deep socket.Presto! Is that easy or what? Who cares if the headers just came back from the big-end.Have a helper cycle the pedal to ensure your spacer does not rub on the fork. Drop a cotterpin or a hairpin into the drilled hole to capture the locknut if it comes loose, and you are done.
While you could use a mechanically locking locnut instead of the cotterpin, don't try and use a Nyloc nut. They can't seem to take the heat.
If your metal ball swivel is not flat where the spacer sets against it, make it so, or the locnut will not stay tight. And that is a PITA to find out,on a Saturday night, 100 miles from home, and you dressed for a wedding.
 
Last edited:
Got it aligned and plate welded. Pedal works smoother now. Still seems to be some flex , even into the rail plate is welded to. Much better though, probably will call it good for now. THANKS ALL !!!!
 
-
Back
Top