Zac_F71's 71 Demon

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Average Joe said:
Sweet! I was going to do a big block in my barracuda but decided to build a 5.7 for it.
Either way it will be a sweet ride.
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Just curious I was doing research all morning on a 5.7 swap in an older car like our's - what do you have into your swap? is it worth doing over a small or big block?

I priced $5,300 with a $1,500 running engine for just getting the motor in and running (not including a EFI style fuel system)
 
Good thing it's early in the season LOL it's going 5.7 hemi with a 80mm or so turbo.. so all the big block stuff is up for grabs
 
zac_F71 said:
Just curious I was doing research all morning on a 5.7 swap in an older car like our's - what do you have into your swap? is it worth doing over a small or big block?

I priced $5,300 with a $1,500 running engine for just getting the motor in and running (not including a EFI style fuel system)
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I have around $7000.0 in my 5.7. But I am doing mine with all ARP studs,forged rotating assembly,6.1 CNC ported heads.
The 5.7 Hemi has a cast crankshafts and week rods and pistons. They work with good but only up to about 10 PSI after that you should do a forged rotating assembly.
I did mine using a 6.1 crankshaft ( They are forged steel) scat industries 4340 forged stock replacement rods and Wiseco forged drop in pistons.It cost $1500. to do stock bore and stroke forged rotating assembly.I want to see how much power I can pull out of a pump gas 5.7.
Or you can spend $2600.00 and make it a 392 stroker.
Looking forward to seeing it built.
I have a thread started on my 67 barracuda. As soon as I get my heads I am going to start building the engine and posting pics.
Thanks,Joe
 
I see I want to turbo a cam/spring/intake only engine so hopefully have that into my whole swap ($7,000 - EFI/fuel system as well)

I'm not worried the 5.7 won't take it - SharaDon Performance got 750whp from a cam/spring/intake turbo 5.7 on E85 - I plan to run pump gas and shoot for a reliable 600whp

Get a custom cam/spring package from Ed Curtis (FTI)..
 
$1,000 running 71 383 out of a Challenger - (numbers matching car was swapped for a hemi)

Has been resealed, and assembly lubed pretty much everywhere

 
zac_F71 said:
Yes QA1 Dynamics - they pull the wheel forward through the range of motion
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Wondering about this statement, because if they do that, its usally considered BAD.... perhaps I am misunderstanding.
 
The stock rods are a weak link. The viper uses the same thing. They suck. If you go forced induction, I highly recommend forged rods. It may last a little while, but, it will fail. Ask me how I know. LOL:prayer:
There was a national back order on stock 6.1 rods recently. Waited 2 months for one. Don't know if they still are. When I wanted a new rod for my 5.7, I waited over a month. That would tell me they are crappin out on stock drivers all over the place.
Pressed powdered rods are not a good thing for F.I. They don't last very long. I tell customers this all the time. They are always back to have the engine rebuilt cuz they heard so-n-so never had an issue. Bull$#!+. So-n-so doesn't drive their car to break it because 800-900 hp scared the crap outta them......... "oh, yeah, never had an issue." What he didn't say was that he's only put 150 miles on the car in 3 years. Really??????????
I see that scenario a lot.

Rant off. lol sorry for the hijack.:prayer:
 
zac_F71 said:
Have to email/call QA1 on it, that is just what I was told on here by a fellow member..
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If those arms are actually moving the wheel forward and backward through wheel travel, that will induce massive bumpsteer. I doubt they would have designed it that way.
 
replicaracer43 said:
If those arms are actually moving the wheel forward and backward through wheel travel, that will induce massive bumpsteer. I doubt they would have designed it that way.
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I have one mocked up and it does move the lower arm.. that is why QA1 uses a rubber bushing in the LCA - I can't see bump steer being brought in, toe changes though yes.. BUT I doubt it moves it more than 1/4"
 
zac_F71 said:
I have one mocked up and it does move the lower arm.. that is why QA1 uses a rubber bushing in the LCA - I can't see bump steer being brought in, toe changes though yes.. BUT I doubt it moves it more than 1/4"
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Toe change through wheel travel, IS bump steer. and a 1/4" is a ton
 
zac_F71 said:
I meant 1/4" forward.. not a 1/4" in toe - I'm going to run them I have yet to read or hear anything bad about them or their parts..
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That's cool, not trying to bash, just its easier to sort out potential problems early on, and that statement caught my eye.... carry on, its looking good!
 
replicaracer43 said:
That's cool, not trying to bash, just its easier to sort out potential problems early on, and that statement caught my eye.... carry on, its looking good!
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It's hard to say what it will do - once the car is driving I will report back on them.. I know they're also designed for the front wheels to come off the ground and not deflect when touching ground again like a stock strut rod would..
 
Well due to budget constraints I've been crunching numbers - got about $2,700 for the motor/trans/ exhaust/fuel system

parts -
MP 284/.484" 108*LSA cam
Comp valve springs on stock "346" 440 heads
Summit timing chain
MP windage tray
MP shim head gaskets (my math puts it about 9:1 static)
Milodon 7qt oil pan
MP valve covers
Edelbrock Performer RPM
Hughes 3500 stall
Proform electronic ign. kit
Hedman headers
Summit 2.5" X pipe
Dynomax Ultraflow's dumped
 
Ok guys got my tax return and loan so money is getting spent here-

440source aluminum heads (confirmed with Kim the below cam will work with the included springs)
440source aluminum underdrive crank pulley
Comp 280 / .480" cam
Edelbrock Performer RPM w/ 1/2" spacer
Holley 750
Hedman B body headers
3500rpm hughes stall converter from a fellow member

everything else will be left til money allows -
 
ok back up - I inspected everything over good - 75% sure both stock heads have stock springs in them as they look identical on each of the heads, (single spring with a damper spring inside)

SO I ordered a pair of stealth heads and will just run them for now.. anyone know the part number for the correct plugs for them? I'm not a fan of Champion plugs, and want to get NGK's.. honestly to me they look like typical GM style plugs that most aluminum heads use..

So here is the FINAL build-

Holley 3310 750 carb
1/2" divided spacer (may switch to open)
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
440 source stealth heads OOTB (ordered - no going back)
MP shim .020" head gaskets (should be 9:1 static with the flat tops - measured .050"-.055" in the hole)
stock pushrods/ rockers - may buy hardened pushords not sure yet
Comp 280/.480" 110* cam dot to dot
Summit timing chain
stock oil pump from 71
MP windage tray
Milodon 7qt oil pan
stock 71 rotating assembly
440 source crank under drive pulley (5.25" diameter)
440 source aluminum water pump setup w/ HF pump
Proform electronic kit (may just get a dizzy as I already have the harness/box)
Mancini lightweight alternator kit w/ 120amp Toyota alt to run electric fan
80gph mechanical fuel pump w/ reg/filter

Hedman 1 3/4" B body headers, Summit 3" X pipe, 3" Dynomax Ultraflow's dumped at axle

stock 727 w/ hard spring shift kit, 4.2 band lever (factory super stock part)
Hughes 3,000-3,500 stall
Hurst Pro-matic 2 shifter (can get for $120 brand new)
stock drive shaft
B body 8 3/4 w/ 3.23 gears (a gear set isn't in the budget as the chassis needs a lot of work)
^ new green bearing kit for axles - leaving center section as it has lower miles on it..

What do we think it will make? I'm guessing 400hp-425hp at the crank.. but would be happy with 380 crank..

PICS of the $1,000 motor torn down!!


torn down and inspected all good - waiting for parts to tear into the rest!
 
So you are not putting a gen 3 in it now?
 
sireland67 said:
So you are not putting a gen 3 in it now?
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We'll see but going to save up for it.. going to cost $8,000 with out custom headers, fuel system, and turbo just to put one in the car.. so I want to drive it while I figure out the "final solution" for it and I have all the big block parts and a good motor..
 
Put it together, already having the parts saves $$$
 
The champion plugs for those heads are rc12yc.
You could cross reference that number.
They are 3/4 reach 14mm plugs.They used that style plug in Hemis and small blocks.
I run the autolite AR51 in my 496 Hemi. Great plug but expensive.13/16 Hex on mine you would probably want a 5/8 Hex
 
Thanks man! I find it outrageous that 440 source want's $25 for a set of plugs that cost a little more than half that..

Got my new RSD disc brake spindles, ordered $925 worth of parts from Summit, and emailed SharaDon Performance for a quote for the chassis work -

Needs subframe connectors installed, the rear end setup for the offset hangers/ B body axle, green bearings installed on the axles, and the spare tire well fixed - it's rotted out to the point that I don't trust it to hold a full tank of gas..
 
Was going to head out to my car, but started reading your thread and had to finish. Car looks great can't wait for pics with the BB in it.
 
73 Swinger 8 said:
Was going to head out to my car, but started reading your thread and had to finish. Car looks great can't wait for pics with the BB in it.
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Ha ya I've changed my mind a few times - it happens when you have a blank page of a car and car/racing friends talking you into things..


My first Summit order showed up today and Getting the 440source heads Friday!



 
It was a good day! Got my rear tires 275/60-15 Cooper Cobra's, and got the new piston rings, and the Stealth heads! I'll have an assembled engine by this time next week for sure!





 
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