Zinc Additive for Flat Tappet break-in?

-
ramcharger said:
The only versions that I'm aware of are the different weights:

10w-30

20w-50

Straight 30, 40, 50 and 60.

Please let me know where you have heard this and which weight VR1 has been affected.

Thanks
Click to expand...

According to the spec sheet on their web page 20w-50 and the straight weights are available as an SM oil or an SH. 10w-30 is available as an SH only.

Check the bottle before you purchase it. The SM rating came into being because of the Fed requirement to warranty cats for 100,000 miles and the manufacturers could only do that with the reduced ZDDP levels.
 
dgc333 said:
According to the spec sheet on their web page 20w-50 and the straight weights are available as an SM oil or an SH. 10w-30 is available as an SH only.

Check the bottle before you purchase it. The SM rating came into being because of the Fed requirement to warranty cats for 100,000 miles and the manufacturers could only do that with the reduced ZDDP levels.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave! Great information. :thumblef:
 
I run Brad Penn Racing oil and don't have to worry about adding anything. It's not rated for passenger cars so it doesn't fall under the EPA BS. It costs me under $4 per quart and i have a local distributor that I can go pick it up or they will deliver it to my house for free even. Joe Gibb's racing oil is another good option. You aren't gonna find an oil on the shelf at Wal-Mart that will work anymore.....you're gonna have to go to a speed shop or a local parts store that stocks stuff for hot rods.
 
Dusterb318 said:
I run Brad Penn Racing oil and don't have to worry about adding anything. It's not rated for passenger cars so it doesn't fall under the EPA BS. It costs me under $4 per quart and i have a local distributor that I can go pick it up or they will deliver it to my house for free even. Joe Gibb's racing oil is another good option. You aren't gonna find an oil on the shelf at Wal-Mart that will work anymore.....you're gonna have to go to a speed shop or a local parts store that stocks stuff for hot rods.
Click to expand...

except cant get a straight answer about whats in Brad Penn oil.
 
I have talked to the guy at my local dealer quite a few times and have no worries about it. I don't know of any oil company whether it be Brad Penn, Royal Purple or Joe Gibbs that will tell you whats in their additive packages. Those are what set them apart from each other. The only reason you know whats in the "shelf" oils is because the EPA demands to know and they publish it. No oil that doesn't fall under the EPA requirment umbrella will tell you whats in the package. I know RP doesn't and I'm sure Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs are the same....those are company secrets.
 
Maybe I have a more knowledgable dealer then....the guy I talk to and buy from is really up on the subject cause he has a Chevelle and he's aware of the problem and has done some research and talked to higher up's from Brad Penn. I know Chuck from Best Machine endorses and sells Brad Penn and my local Circle Track engine builder pushes Joe Gibbs.....so either one is okay by me.
 
Just bought two bottles of the Hughes additive yesterday evening. I will use it for the next two oil changes to see how it works. I just eclipsed 2,000 miles on my new rebuilt 318 with comp bumpstick and moly rings, so maybe I will use that additive and go ahead with a synthetic such as Mobil 1 while the seals are fresh and the motor should be broken in enough.

Opinions?? Uh oh, we just opened another can of worms. Quick, call the pest control, before it goes out of control....lol:-#
 
The typical VR1 is now SM also. It has higher zink that most, but still too low. The good stuff is labeled "not legal for use in on road vehicles" or something like that. It's I think only in 10-30 or 20-50 wts. I use and recommend that for cam breakin, and then VR1 straight 30 wt for use after that. I think Crane, Comp Cams, and Hughes have all the same basic stuff. If you are contemplating running an aggressive flat tappet cam lobe, you need to know what you oil it with. Otherwise, just go roller cam.
 
When I called Valvoline and asked them about their Not For Street Use oil they said it doesn't have the additives for street use. You would have to change it every 500 miles. This is what one of their techs told me.

Fred B
 
340Dart said:
When I called Valvoline and asked them about their Not For Street Use oil they said it doesn't have the additives for street use. You would have to change it every 500 miles. This is what one of their techs told me.

Fred B
Click to expand...


Its been working just fine for me and I leave it in for 4-5 months, like 3000 miles.

It has to be fine, you can not believe everything some tech guy says. Its very high in Zinc, I notice the oil stays cleaner longer. I swap heads this fall, my motor look very clean inside. My little 318 revs to 6200 almost every day the weather is nice.

I had a Summit Racing tech trying to tell me a MSD 7al box would burn up on the street, mines 3 years old now, still going just fine.
 
I have to double check, but I dont believe it's detergent oil. But, niether is Joe Gibbs...lol. And really, these egnines are not getting milage like they used to, and most things (guides, seals, ring and gasket sealing) have all improved, so there is less contamination anyway. 500 miles? Find a new tehc guy...lol.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top