zinc oil useage?

-
MidnightSwinger said:
It’s obvious reading what you write that you are not a tribologist, you don’t have to keep saying it.
Click to expand...


Right. Because I'm explaining what I know to be FACTS and you keep posting anecdotal nonsense.

Run what you want, but whatever you do don't try to learn. Learning is hard.
 
S'cuder said:
Shell recommends Rotella because they don't offer a product in North America whose primary application is gasoline OHV flat tappet engines. The last one they had was Quaker State Defy 10W-40. Because it was a xxW-40, it was allowed to have the higher level of ZDDP and still carry the API SN rating. The xxW-30 and lighter oils had the ZDDP limit. That product was discontinued a few years ago. Rotella will work, but it is a compromise and there are better choices at around the same price point. Mobil1 FS 0W-40 is widely available, priced very competitively and has 1100 ppm of ZDDP.


Shell owns Pennzoil. DA Lubes of Indiana owns Penn Grade. That used to be Brad Penn, made in Bradford PA at the old Kendall facility. It may still be made there, but I don't know.
Click to expand...

Mobil1 0W40 used to be my go-to choice, problem is they changed the formation in May of 2022 and dropped the phosphorus to 900 and the zinc to 1000.

https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/...-1/pdf/emsga-mobil1productguide-v2-9-1-22.pdf

Those numbers aren't too bad, but I know most people would like to be up around the 1200 range.

This is why it's not OK to think "I've been using such-and-such brand for X number of years and never had a problem" when using an off the shelf oil. The manufacturers are constantly changing the formulations to meet the latest standards, so what worked for your last oil change may not work for your next oil change. If you're using a specialty oil like what @Scody21 was just talking about then you're probably fine, because those oils are designed specifically for the application. Otherwise you'll really want to research the current levels of anti-wear additives every time you go to buy oil for your flat tappet engine.
 

Attachments

  • EMSGA-Mobil1ProductGuide-V2-9-1-22.pdf
    114 KB · Views: 190
autopar3000 said:
Mobil1 0W40 used to be my go-to choice, problem is they changed the formation in May of 2022 and dropped the phosphorus to 900 and the zinc to 1000.

https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/...-1/pdf/emsga-mobil1productguide-v2-9-1-22.pdf

Those numbers aren't too bad, but I know most people would like to be up around the 1200 range.

This is why it's not OK to think "I've been using such-and-such brand for X number of years and never had a problem" when using an off the shelf oil. The manufacturers are constantly changing the formulations to meet the latest standards, so what worked for your last oil change may not work for your next oil change. If you're using a specialty oil like what @Scody21 was just talking about then you're probably fine, because those oils are designed specifically for the application. Otherwise you'll really want to research the current levels of anti-wear additives every time you go to buy oil for your flat tappet engine.
Click to expand...
That is down a bit. I'll still use it because it's enough for me. I don't get a lot of miles on my oil changes. Since ZDDP is depleted due to heat and pressure the more you have to begin with, the longer it lasts.
 
S'cuder said:
That is down a bit. I'll still use it because it's enough for me. I don't get a lot of miles on my oil changes. Since ZDDP is depleted due to heat and pressure the more you have to begin with, the longer it lasts.
Click to expand...


THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^!!!

The LESS zinc you start with the sooner your oil change interval needs to be. You have 300 PPM less in the above example.

If we took that 900 PPM oil and compared it to an oil with say...1500 PPM, fresh out of the bottle there is ZERO protection difference between the two oils. None.

One oil will be offering protection longer than the other.

Again, buying an oil based on it's zinc content is bad policy.

Cheap oil isn't cheap and expensive oil isn't expensive in the grand scheme of things.
 
i called the guys at Driven today and this is the stuff they recommend for my 360:

for break in: GP1 part# 19336

after break in GP1 part # 19306
 
S'cuder said:
Yes, that's right. 1200 ppm is the sweet spot for street cars where the oil might stay in the sump for months or longer. The ZDDP can become acidic over time and consume the base additive meant to counteract acids that occur as byproducts of combustion. Excessive amounts of ZDDP have been shown to cause pitting and spalling on engine parts. That's why some high content ZDDP racing oils will say "not for passenger car use" on the label. If you mis-use the product, any damage is your fault not the manufacturer's.
Click to expand...
That's why I stopped using the Lucas Hot rod Oil. It has 2400PPM which seems excessive.
 
The only proof that Zinc 'costs power' would be a dyno test of the same brand & grade of oil, with & without Zinc in it. Otherwise, the proof only exists in someone's fertile imagination....
 
Bewy said:
The only proof that Zinc 'costs power' would be a dyno test of the same brand & grade of oil, with & without Zinc in it. Otherwise, the proof only exists in someone's fertile imagination....
Click to expand...
ZDDP causes friction. The testing has been done and is accepted fact. The white papers are available for purchase online.
 
The only true test would be a dyno test using the same oil, with & without zinc in it. Anything else is an opinion.
 
Bewy said:
The only true test would be a dyno test using the same oil, with & without zinc in it. Anything else is an opinion
Click to expand...


Red x for you. Just because YOU don’t know something doesn’t make it an opinion.

I’ve already said without zinc it’s not an engine oil.
 
Bewy said:
The only true test would be a dyno test using the same oil, with & without zinc in it. Anything else is an opinion.
Click to expand...
The test could be done with different levels of zinc. It wouldn't have to be with or without.
 
S'cuder. Terms used in that link use words like 'may' & 'inappropriate'. Someone's opinion.
 
Turk,
You should try & remember what you post. In post #48, you said zinc was 'an incredible power eater'.
Using the word incredible in that context implies: very large, huge.
Where is the proof????
 
92b.
Yes correct about the levels of zinc. When you look at different oils that have zinc, the amount varies greatly, often from 800 ppm to over 2000 ppm. That tells any sensible person that more zinc is adding for marketing purposes [ ' Buy ours, it has more zinc' ]....or nobody really knows for sure if there is a defined/minimum amount that is needed & any more than that is wasted.

A dyno test with, say, 1000 ppm of zinc in the oil, & the same oil without the zinc will prove whether zinc is a 'power eater'. It is no different from a claim that thicker oils costs hp.
You dyno test the same brand/type of oil in high & low viscosities...& let the dyno tell the story.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top