All this information is already all over this site in triplicate. Use the search feature. It's been beat to death. Use cooking oil in your junk. I don't care. I know what I will continue to use.
YepAll this information is already all over this site in triplicate. Use the search feature. It's been beat to death. Use cooking oil in your junk. I don't care. I know what I will continue to use.
I got a moderate/mild cam on my bone stock 318 (comp K20-212 with lifters & springs) and I used the break-in lubricant that came packaged with. I noticed that of all the Mobil 1 listed, the lowest amount of ZDDP was 750 ppm and most was 900 or up to 1300 for the tappet formula (1850 ppm race).
All I did was a cautious break in and I'm using plain old Pennzoil. I don't do a lot of high rpm maneuvers with high dynamic pressure which is where I think the main problem is.
Another important thing, maybe most important, is adequate oil pressure. So when I did the cam & timing chain I went ahead and put in a new oil pump at the same time, so I'm like 60+ psi cold or at anything above 1500 rpm, and as low as 25 psi if it's hot & idling at 600 rpm.
I've got an astoundingly unremarkable motor that I use to do unremarkable things, Pennzoil is probably adequate. If it's not - no big loss.
I wonder if Pennzoil has paraffin in it like it used to have. That stuff was nasty on short trip drive applications.I got a moderate/mild cam on my bone stock 318 (comp K20-212 with lifters & springs) and I used the break-in lubricant that came packaged with. I noticed that of all the Mobil 1 listed, the lowest amount of ZDDP was 750 ppm and most was 900 or up to 1300 for the tappet formula (1850 ppm race).
All I did was a cautious break in and I'm using plain old Pennzoil. I don't do a lot of high rpm maneuvers with high dynamic pressure which is where I think the main problem is.
Another important thing, maybe most important, is adequate oil pressure. So when I did the cam & timing chain I went ahead and put in a new oil pump at the same time, so I'm like 60+ psi cold or at anything above 1500 rpm, and as low as 25 psi if it's hot & idling at 600 rpm.
I've got an astoundingly unremarkable motor that I use to do unremarkable things, Pennzoil is probably adequate. If it's not - no big loss.
It hasn't in more than twenty years.I wonder if Pennzoil has paraffin in it like it used to have. That stuff was nasty on short trip drive applications.View attachment 1715261058
Those most directly responsible for the reduction of ZDDP in motor oil are the vehicle manufacturers. They lobbied API and ILSAC to reduce the amounts of ZDDP in the newest oils certified by those organizations, because the OEMs are (required by the EPA) to have a catalytic convertor warranty of 8 years or 80,000 miles. As we know, the virtual elimination of flat tappet cams has drastically reduced the amount of ZDDP needed as an anti-wear additive. Therefore the OEMs don't want to be using something they see as not only unnecessary, but harmful to their bottom line.
So, it was caused by the government through their 8/80 mandate, but really pushed by the OEMs to protect their bottom line. That's it in a nutshell.
I don't like to use additives whenever possible. Chemical and petroleum engineers work very hard to come up with balanced formulas which can be upset, and made considerably less effective by the introduction of an additive solution. My oil of choice for my stock, never apart, original 340 is Rotella T6 5W-40. Synthetic, low ash, 1200-1300 ppm of ZDDP, and only a 40 weight on the hot end of the scale. Recommended by Shell for gasoline vehicles. Available at Wally World for $20/gallon. And they're the ones who send my pension check every month.
Those articles about flat tappet cams are written by kids right out of college. Probably never new what a real hot rod is!! Especially one with a hydraulic or solid tappet cam. Their info is useless.A lot of articles say once the cam and lifters are successfully broken in, the ZDDP is not critical. I disagree, because most of the time anyone concerned with such, has a better than stock cam with higher spring pressures. I think in those instances, it is certainly beneficial to continue the use of ZDDP. I know I have and I will continue to do so, regardless of anyone else's opinion.
Those articles about flat tappet cams are written by kids right out of college. Probably never new what a real hot rod is!! Especially one with a hydraulic or solid tappet cam. Their info is useless.
Usually written by reps from oil suppliers that don't have "old car oil". Northland Petroleum here in town supplies all the lubricants for John Deere tractors built here. I asked about "old car oil" and they said they may have a few old barrels in the warehouse. It has "seal swell" in it to soften seals in old engines. I didn't get into ZDDP levels. I should get ahold of Scot again and make a deal. Bottling and shipping it would be a pain though.I tend to agree.
A lot of articles say once the cam and lifters are successfully broken in, the ZDDP is not critical. I disagree, because most of the time anyone concerned with such, has a better than stock cam with higher spring pressures. I think in those instances, it is certainly beneficial to continue the use of ZDDP. I know I have and I will continue to do so, regardless of anyone else's opinion.
I like the factory owner manual reccomendation on viscosity, but it’s more of a bearing manufacturer thing after a rebuild. I have to wonder what additional additives the Mopar sperm oil additive recommended by ChryCo for severe and performance usage had. Of course, at the time, oil was still made for cars built in 1971 in 1971!Those articles about flat tappet cams are written by kids right out of college. Probably never new what a real hot rod is!! Especially one with a hydraulic or solid tappet cam. Their info is useless.
Looks like its down a little to barely 1200 ppm in the CK-4 Diesel. Probably still fine with the stock 340 cam but thought you'ld would like to know the formula was changed.Rotella T6 5W-40. Synthetic, low ash, 1200-1300 ppm of ZDDP,
Even though at the present, I am getting by fine with rotella SAE 30 diesel tractor oil with a bottle of Rislone and a bottle of blue STP... I am not really testing the limits of hydraulic cam valve spring pressure either though. Other than 10:1 static compression and headers, I am a whole lot closer to stock than to “race”...
Wow! It’s been a while since I’ve even heard of the “Minnie Express “ package... I would imagine full contact pattern with that much over the nose pressure. If you don’t mind, what are the timing events and lift on that deal?Any thoughts about what ppm of zinc I should use for my Mini-Express mushroom setup? I broke it in with 8 qts of straight 30 oil + a bottle of "real" ZDDP and it seems to have survived.
Springs are about 430 lb over the nose. The 1.00" lifter foot is larger than stock, but the cam lobes are actually narrower than a .904 cam (so they don't hit the adjacent lifter). So is that more pressure per unit area, less, or the same?
Any thoughts about what ppm of zinc I should use for my Mini-Express mushroom setup? I broke it in with 8 qts of straight 30 oil + a bottle of "real" ZDDP and it seems to have survived.
Springs are about 430 lb over the nose. The 1.00" lifter foot is larger than stock, but the cam lobes are actually narrower than a .904 cam (so they don't hit the adjacent lifter). So is that more pressure per unit area, less, or the same?