'70 Dart 392 Project; what direction?

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Passengers side is in. More difficult in the fact that the seat base is 2” taller than the drivers side. Little tedious to get it right but happy with the fit.

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Well I pulled off the SRT8 intake and put the 6.1 intake in place (no pic sorry).

Long story short I’m not going to use it (for now).

The LS throttle body hits the the Holley front accessory cover housing, I could mill it and get clearance, BUT I can’t use my “392 Hemi” valve covers (oil fill hole is off about 3/4”, and it clocks the throttle body about 30* which looks weird to me. Going to shelve it for now. Call me weird but I looked forever for the 392 hemi covers and love the look lol

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Oh yeah if you look you’ll see I made a mount bracket to mount the clutch MC reservoir off the brake MC. Didn’t want to drill holes in the firewall. Waiting on a 180* 4AN fitting and a new 48” throttle cable from jegs so I can finish up my pedals. Then I’ll finish fuel lines and get my battery tray welded.

One thing at a time.

Mike
 
I just installed the Corbeau LG1 (W) with brackets using the stock lap and shoulder belts in the Duster before autocross school March 30th. I love these seats. No more being tossed against the door cards and holding on to the steering wheel!

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JBrian said:
I just installed the Corbeau LG1 (W) with brackets using the stock lap and shoulder belts in the Duster before autocross school March 30th. I love these seats. No more being tossed against the door cards and holding on to the steering wheel!

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That looks great!! I hear you on the side to side support the factory stuff just ain’t meant for the corners!

Few more things about wrapped up.
Got battery tray welded in the trunk.
Will finish up fuel lines tomorrow minus a few fittings that won’t show until next week.
The hydraulic clutch lines should be done as well tomorrow.
Throttle cable is arriving tomorrow.

Power steering lines then radiator/coolant and AC system then exhaust and I’ll be ready to wire megasquirt and crank…. Which is insane to me. 2+ years and I’m close to actually attempting a start. Wild.

Mike
 
Got fuel lines buttoned up, power steering lines done, and got a plan for throttle pedal. Going to modify the factory pedal to accept the LS cable attachment. Also got hydraulic clutch bled and working great. Sure is nice to sit in the drivers seat a pump the clutch and shift through the gear box. :)

You can see the bracket I made off the brake MC here as well.

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208Dart said:
Got fuel lines buttoned up, power steering lines done, and got a plan for throttle pedal. Going to modify the factory pedal to accept the LS cable attachment. Also got hydraulic clutch bled and working great. Sure is nice to sit in the drivers seat a pump the clutch and shift through the gear box. :)

You can see the bracket I made off the brake MC here as well.

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I see you have the Holley pan. @HemiDenny has been anxiously waiting to find out if it clears his K-member. Did you have to modify anything to make it work? Before I installed my K, I kind of mocked it up on the engine while it was on the stand and it looked like it would be fine.
 
I run a Champion radiator with a Ford Contour V6 duel electric fan that is almost a perfect fit for a 26" radiator. I also included a picture of the 2005 RAM 2500 5.7 manual starter that I
use next to a typical mini-starter. Hope that helps.

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208Dart said:
Thank you!

I’m on the hunt for a radiator and electric fan suggestion at the moment.

Not sure If I need an oil cooler but don’t think I do.?
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Another suggestion would be a factory replacement Charger/Challenger radiator and fan. Then you could run factory hoses and plumb in the factory 6.4 oil cooler, too.

Things Change.. Butters is now getting a 392
 
racerjoe said:
I see you have the Holley pan. @HemiDenny has been anxiously waiting to find out if it clears his K-member. Did you have to modify anything to make it work? Before I installed my K, I kind of mocked it up on the engine while it was on the stand and it looked like it would be fine.
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Holley pan next to a Jegs pan which I believe is the same size as the Milodon pan

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JBrian said:
Holley pan next to a Jegs pan which I believe is the same size as the Milodon pan

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I don't recall if Denny's concern was the height, or the sump location. Picture above looks very close to the steering rack. However, eelier in his thread he mentioned the engine was as far forward as he can go (Denny's mounts are adjustable). I plant to put mine as far back as possible.
 
racerjoe said:
I don't recall if Denny's concern was the height, or the sump location. Picture above looks very close to the steering rack. However, eelier in his thread he mentioned the engine was as far forward as he can go (Denny's mounts are adjustable). I plant to put mine as far back as possible.
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Push'm back, push'm back, way back!
 
racerjoe said:
I see you have the Holley pan. @HemiDenny has been anxiously waiting to find out if it clears his K-member. Did you have to modify anything to make it work? Before I installed my K, I kind of mocked it up on the engine while it was on the stand and it looked like it would be fine.
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I have my engine as far back as possible. Tight enough that I can't run the factory SRV module on the back of the SRT8 intake, had to run the MMX block off plate. With the engine this far back, it BARELY clears the power rack and pinion, like 1/8" clearance.... No other interference other than that possible one. I had to machine some OD off the steering shaft though to clear the TTI headers. You could also machine the spacers on the R&P to move it forward a little bit which would help with steering shaft/header clearance.

I'll take a look at that radiator! I'm tempted to run a passenger side top inlet/bottom inlet just for aesthetics as I think it would look better. I do like that 3 core radiator though!

Mike
 
Nothing fancy but I managed to modify my throttle pedal to accept the LS cable attachment today. Hope to fab up the bracket for the throttle body side tomorrow.

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Ran out of time today but looking at this radiator package. Gotta measure and see if it’ll actually fit. But the combination fans and radiator with correct mounting brackets make it a fairly decent value.

66-74 A,B,C, E Body 17x26 Auto Aluminum Performance Radiator


Got a decent plant for the throttle cable bracket, should go pretty quick!

Not looking forward to doing heat/ac. Gotta decide what coolant bulkhead I’m going to need and how everything routes. . I’m actually looking forward to the megasquirt wiring at this point!
 
110% jinxed myself.
Got throttle cable installed on pedal side, I ran the attachment a little higher than factory to try and get more travel out of it. But factory pedal travel only opens the LS cable throttle body maybe 50%.

With the extra travel needed I dont know that modifying the pedal linkage itself would be enough. I might have to work something on the throttle body side. Either a secondary lever that compounds the cable travel, or a smaller cam on the throttle body itself. Pedal travel I’m guessing is about 1.5-1.7” and the throttle body needs close to 3”….

Gonna think on this one! Any ideas?

Mike
 
208Dart said:
Thank you!

I’m on the hunt for a radiator and electric fan suggestion at the moment.

Not sure If I need an oil cooler but don’t think I do.?
Click to expand...
I pulled a complete setup out a 2013 (?) Charger V6 police car.. I believe they're all the same. Cheap and plentiful, even if you buy new. Butchered the stock lower mount to just bolt in and fab'd some upper brackets, utilizing the stock rubber inserts. Really happy with how it came out, considering I have $50 in the whole thing. You do have to roll the frame rail lip down on pass side for clearance.. same lip that interferes with the alternator.

Running a 180 stat, fans set to kick on at 180. Drove around for a bit last weekend and it seemed to fluctuate between under 180 to 185. Fans would kick on for a bit siting in the driveway and then back off as expected.
 
208Dart said:
110% jinxed myself.
Got throttle cable installed on pedal side, I ran the attachment a little higher than factory to try and get more travel out of it. But factory pedal travel only opens the LS cable throttle body maybe 50%.

With the extra travel needed I dont know that modifying the pedal linkage itself would be enough. I might have to work something on the throttle body side. Either a secondary lever that compounds the cable travel, or a smaller cam on the throttle body itself. Pedal travel I’m guessing is about 1.5-1.7” and the throttle body needs close to 3”….

Gonna think on this one! Any ideas?

Mike
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SRT8CUDA Build
Post 339. Jim shows how he accomplished it
 
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