Yes. In steel.
Just a WIX metal filter will be fine.what would you guys suggest for a fuel filter between mech pump & carb (5/16 steel line)? RR
THE best ignition system for any carbureated engine, ever...I would pick a progression ignition, it's an all-in-one unit, that allows precise control of your ignition based on rpm and MAP. Also, all tuning can be done from your phone. Progression Ignition
What's the sample rate?THE best ignition system for any carbureated engine, ever...
They have added a "racing" package of capabilities that are quite impressive.
Nitrous timing retard, 2-step RPM limited LAUNCH CONTROL and DATA LOGGING.
BOOST timing compensation has been part of the system for years.
I have looked in vintage stock cars. Even some from the 90s. And I wouldn't run some of the junk in a home bracket drag car. Including some of their gauges. I think weight was a concern. But that didn't explain all that was seen. It was a bit shocking.We visited the Richard Petty Museum a while back and I'll be damned if most of the ignition systems inside the cockpits of those old Mopars were Chrysler ECU's. No idea how the cars ran with that junk back then, but that's what was in them.
What's the sample rate?
LOL, I sent an email to them and got a response in 3 mins. 25 samples per second or once every 0.04 secondsI’ve asked that multiple times in multiple places and never an answer.
What distributor and vacuum advance diaphram did you use that worked in the low vacuum range?I know I am late to the party, but the issue with 2 barrel (500 cfm) circle track engines is above 4200 RPM they start pulling a manifold vacuum. On a 350 chevy, at, 6200 they are pulling 4in of vacuum, I am sure a 360 would be pulling more. So what this means is the timing used to come out of the curve for max power needs to be increased going down the straightaway, due to less cylinder filling. I have done a lot of development work on the dyno with 2 barrel 350 chevys. What we found is if we had max timing for HP above 5800 we lost peak torque. The solution (within the rules) was to modify the vacuum advance to add 4 degrees of timing once the manifold started to make a vacuum. With all that being said and if you are allowed to pick any distributor, I would pick a progression ignition, it's an all-in-one unit, that allows precise control of your ignition based on rpm and MAP. Also, all tuning can be done from your phone. Progression Ignition
It was a Hei, it had an adjustable diaphragm, so we limited it to 4 degrees.What distributor and vacuum advance diaphram did you use that worked in the low vacuum range?
Get them Chebbies.....
HEI module can be mounted on an alum heat sink under or on the side of the dist. Keeps it neat, wires short.
LS1 coils and a stock mid '90s BMW six cylinder crank trigger
A lot cheaper...e-core coil and a good 4-pin hei module from Rock Auto. $50-75.00. Or you can get a Hi Rev 7500 ignition box on ebay from Rick Ehrenberg for about $40.Yep, above is the deal. If you already have a dist, you can do the above a lot cheaper & at home with hand tools.
This is the sort of thing that would require a bit of fabrication (or a similar aftermarket crank trigger with a 60-2 or 36-1 pattern) and some sort of aftermarket control unit - MicroSquirt if you're on a budget, maybe something like a Haltec VEC if you have a larger budget, want more I/O, and don't care if the unit may be used to control EFI down the road. Accuracy and tuning are often a lot more important than spark energy - although LS1 coils are no slouch there; I'd put them as in the same league as an MSD-6A or most other aftermarket boxes.I keep an eye open for projects down the road, do you have a diagram and/or a parts list for a complete setup?
Why BMW crank trigger- easy bolt-on?
How does the BMW crank trigger work with the original question? (360) or was that an oversight? If so, is there a specific 8 cyl trigger that would work?
Can you make the 92 Dakota 5.2 magnum exhaust manifolds work?I do have a new dist that I bought from a guy on here & it had the plate to mount an HEI module under the dist which I kinda like. My racing partner wrecked our 74 dart & it had a 7&1/4 with welded spiders which I didn't know if it would hold up but in my quest to be lighter we tried it & it held up great so it is going into the 63 dart. big issue now is ex manifold choice on the drivers side. a pair of ones I see that will likely work (with ~2&1/2 outlets) for sale here are 7 or 8 hundred iirc but they say in racing "how do you make a small fortune in racing", you start racing with a large fortune. RR