best racing ign system.

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I know I am late to the party, but the issue with 2 barrel (500 cfm) circle track engines is above 4200 RPM they start pulling a manifold vacuum. On a 350 chevy, at, 6200 they are pulling 4in of vacuum, I am sure a 360 would be pulling more. So what this means is the timing used to come out of the curve for max power needs to be increased going down the straightaway, due to less cylinder filling. I have done a lot of development work on the dyno with 2 barrel 350 chevys. What we found is if we had max timing for HP above 5800 we lost peak torque. The solution (within the rules) was to modify the vacuum advance to add 4 degrees of timing once the manifold started to make a vacuum. With all that being said and if you are allowed to pick any distributor, I would pick a progression ignition, it's an all-in-one unit, that allows precise control of your ignition based on rpm and MAP. Also, all tuning can be done from your phone. Progression Ignition
 
Sr4440 said:
I would pick a progression ignition, it's an all-in-one unit, that allows precise control of your ignition based on rpm and MAP. Also, all tuning can be done from your phone. Progression Ignition
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THE best ignition system for any carbureated engine, ever...
They have added a "racing" package of capabilities that are quite impressive.
Nitrous timing retard, 2-step RPM limited LAUNCH CONTROL and DATA LOGGING.
BOOST timing compensation has been part of the system for years.
 
Whatever works best for your situation, is the best. I have a 2 step 6al, just has Dyno time on it so it works I know that. Rat bastid wants Mallory for me but maybe later.
 
Biomedtechguy said:
THE best ignition system for any carbureated engine, ever...
They have added a "racing" package of capabilities that are quite impressive.
Nitrous timing retard, 2-step RPM limited LAUNCH CONTROL and DATA LOGGING.
BOOST timing compensation has been part of the system for years.
Click to expand...
What's the sample rate?
 
12many said:
We visited the Richard Petty Museum a while back and I'll be damned if most of the ignition systems inside the cockpits of those old Mopars were Chrysler ECU's. No idea how the cars ran with that junk back then, but that's what was in them.:lol:
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I have looked in vintage stock cars. Even some from the 90s. And I wouldn't run some of the junk in a home bracket drag car. Including some of their gauges. I think weight was a concern. But that didn't explain all that was seen. It was a bit shocking.
 
a guy on utube used the stock dist spring with the loop to add timing at higher RPM's when the eng needs it due to the leaned out mixture from the restricted carburetor. I will give the vac adv avenue some thought & see if I can figure it out
 
Sr4440 said:
I know I am late to the party, but the issue with 2 barrel (500 cfm) circle track engines is above 4200 RPM they start pulling a manifold vacuum. On a 350 chevy, at, 6200 they are pulling 4in of vacuum, I am sure a 360 would be pulling more. So what this means is the timing used to come out of the curve for max power needs to be increased going down the straightaway, due to less cylinder filling. I have done a lot of development work on the dyno with 2 barrel 350 chevys. What we found is if we had max timing for HP above 5800 we lost peak torque. The solution (within the rules) was to modify the vacuum advance to add 4 degrees of timing once the manifold started to make a vacuum. With all that being said and if you are allowed to pick any distributor, I would pick a progression ignition, it's an all-in-one unit, that allows precise control of your ignition based on rpm and MAP. Also, all tuning can be done from your phone. Progression Ignition
Click to expand...
What distributor and vacuum advance diaphram did you use that worked in the low vacuum range?
 
Speaking of vac advance in circle track, in the 80,s when I ran open motors I ran a vac can dist. I had a mighty vac pump laying next to my seat, if it was tacky, 2 pumps gave me 36 degrees, if the track dryed out I released the vacuum to take roughly 10 degrees of timing out of it to make it lazy, really worked good and no one ever knew.
 
Bewy said:
Get them Chebbies.....

HEI module can be mounted on an alum heat sink under or on the side of the dist. Keeps it neat, wires short.
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Screenshot_20240120-033037.png
 
Yep, above is the deal. If you already have a dist, you can do the above a lot cheaper & at home with hand tools.
 
MadScientistMat said:
LS1 coils and a stock mid '90s BMW six cylinder crank trigger
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I keep an eye open for projects down the road, do you have a diagram and/or a parts list for a complete setup?
Why BMW crank trigger- easy bolt-on?
How does the BMW crank trigger work with the original question? (360) or was that an oversight? If so, is there a specific 8 cyl trigger that would work?
 
RogerRamRod said:
I keep an eye open for projects down the road, do you have a diagram and/or a parts list for a complete setup?
Why BMW crank trigger- easy bolt-on?
How does the BMW crank trigger work with the original question? (360) or was that an oversight? If so, is there a specific 8 cyl trigger that would work?
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This is the sort of thing that would require a bit of fabrication (or a similar aftermarket crank trigger with a 60-2 or 36-1 pattern) and some sort of aftermarket control unit - MicroSquirt if you're on a budget, maybe something like a Haltec VEC if you have a larger budget, want more I/O, and don't care if the unit may be used to control EFI down the road. Accuracy and tuning are often a lot more important than spark energy - although LS1 coils are no slouch there; I'd put them as in the same league as an MSD-6A or most other aftermarket boxes.
 
Rapid Robert said:
I do have a new dist that I bought from a guy on here & it had the plate to mount an HEI module under the dist which I kinda like. My racing partner wrecked our 74 dart & it had a 7&1/4 with welded spiders which I didn't know if it would hold up but in my quest to be lighter we tried it & it held up great so it is going into the 63 dart. big issue now is ex manifold choice on the drivers side. a pair of ones I see that will likely work (with ~2&1/2 outlets) for sale here are 7 or 8 hundred iirc but they say in racing "how do you make a small fortune in racing", you start racing with a large fortune. RR
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Can you make the 92 Dakota 5.2 magnum exhaust manifolds work?
 
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