Uncle Bob
Shiny paint causes stress.
Believe me, this is not the first time I thought of that.This is exactly why I went with manifolds
Believe me, this is not the first time I thought of that.This is exactly why I went with manifolds
I bought uncoated expecting they would get beat up going in anyway, so they weren't that much $$. But still.I'd run manifolds before my dumbass beat a thousand dollar set of headers all to heck.
I started with the engine/trans on a plain old cart and k-frame, and even then they would hit the PS box. Knowing it was all going to change once it was bolted to the car I thought that was because the engine wasn't sitting on the k-frame like it would be once it was all bolted in the car.Manual steering headers on a power steering car. Fitted them on a fixture and then installed the assembly from the bottom. They fit like a glove,
The last time I had already beat the headers up so I thought measuring was moot. Now I know that wasn't enough so I will try to measure it today.Bob, the only other time I saw an issue like this, the installer didn't know the engine sits something like 1 1/2 inches to the passenger side, and he had centered the engine in the frame and had major issues like you.
I'd really be interested, I'm sure I asked before, where your engine/crank centerline is, this chart tells where it should be.
Please and thank-you .
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Ok, try this.Trust me on this because I have it - there isn't lots of room for power steering no matter what you might think. The tubes tuck between the steering gear and the block. I had two tubes that touched the steering gear #1 & #3. The steering coupler is flat up against the #7 tube.
Not that it matters, but I'll never recommend them to anybody. If they were a $150 generic Jeg's/Summit header, yeah. But $500+, no.
I don't remember seeing any cracks but will look again. One thing, those photos were with the k-frame on the cart, so it wasn't sitting level to begin with.Ok, try this.
Unbolt the driver's side engine mount.
Use a bar or an engine hoist and see if you can move the engine to a position that clears the header tubes.
If the headers now clear, maybe you can shim between the motor mount and the K-Frame to get the clearance you need.
Your problem is engine location as there area number of members on here with the same setup as you with the same headers that had no fitment issues.
Cheers!!
Edit: I just noticed something else from your pics. That section of the K Frame that the motor mount sits on looks like its bent
downward. K-Frames are notorious for bad or cracked welds.
I wonder if this is your problem?
The original welds on my k frame look like some pot smoking hippy in the 60s welded it up
Yup!The original welds on my k frame look like some pot smoking hippy in the 60s welded it up. And mine is sloppy requiring shims between mounts to get the headers to fit. Back in the 80s I ran Hooker Headers, didn't know about sloppy k-frames, and beat big dents in them to fit. Then the internet got invented and learned engine placement in a lot of these cars can be a major problem.
Absolutely!Did I hear someone say "poor quality control from the factory "
If the k-frame motor mount locations were shifted 1/4 inch one way or the other that was considered within spec when the cars were built. Tolerances were loose and for factory parts that was usually fine. But when we go to put headers on that loop around everything and require extremely precise engine location to work big issues can arise. But some get lucky and headers fit right in while others have major fitment issues.Did I hear someone say "poor quality control from the factory "
Did I hear someone say "poor quality control from the factory "
If the k-frame motor mount locations were shifted 1/4 inch one way or the other that was considered within spec when the cars were built.
I thought so too, because I'm more accustomed to b-body mounts, but the parts that RockAuto lists for a 71 v8 also look thin.Don't they make a couple of different thickness of the rubber biscuit in the mount? those look really thin in the pic
ah k.. yeah just dropping a engine like 1/4" would make headers hit ****.. was just thinking bout it is allI thought so too, because I'm more accustomed to b-body mounts, but the parts that RockAuto lists for a 71 v8 also look thin.
uuh Bob... The engineers were also pot smoking hippies..LOL !!!It's not a quality control problem if it meets the engineering tolerances:
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This is true... little known fact was Tom Hoover was known as Tom "Hookah"... and that's how he came up with the hemi.. baked out of his skull... Later when the engineers switched to crack they made lean burnuuh Bob... The engineers were also pot smoking hippies..LOL !!!
This is true... little known fact was Tom Hoover was known as Tom "Hookah"... and that's how he came up with the hemi.. baked out of his skull... Later when the engineers switched to crack they made lean burn
This is an actual picture..
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