SRT8CUDA Build

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Way to go. Nice to hear about Mopars, especially our A body Mopars, being featured. Kind of sick of seeing Camaro's featured all the time.
 
Thanks guys. Thought it was a good idea to spread the word about Hemi swaps.
Jim
 
Finished the passenger seat. My Cuda didn't originally come with headrests, but I thought it would look better with them, so I bought a set and an installation kit.

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Nice work Jim. i plan to do mine this summer with factory headrests. Hope to see you at Carlisle next month. Mike

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My ride height was pretty low and I sometimes bottomed out on the header flanges, so decided to raise the car a bit. I moved the rear shock mount up one position to the top position which raised the back of the car 1-1/4", but that looked too high. Then I adjusted the coil-over shock springs down by 1/2" and it looks a lot better. You do have to be careful adjusting the ride height on these shocks to ensure that you keep the shock near the center of it travel. Next I have to raise the front end, but will do that after Moparfest in New Hamburg Ontario this weekend Moparfest – Canada's Largest All Mopar Car Show , since it will screw up the alignment.

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Omg this was one Incredible read . Hats off to you on all your quality fabrications , & extreme attention to every minute detail . Amazing, from beginning to the End .
 
On to the next project!!! It is another '69 Cuda, 340, auto, Formula S, heavily optioned. It needs a total restoration. Plan is to take it back to factory original (no Hemi this time!!) Last week my son and I pulled the engine and tranny at his place and this week we moved it to my garage. The winter project is to strip it completely and get it ready for blasting (plastic media) in the spring, followed by body work and paint. The passenger floor needs to be replaced and there is bondo on the lower rear quarters and a few other places.

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Nice find. It will turn out great. I’ve seen your work. Met you and your son at the Chrysler nationals 2017.
 
Nice find. It will turn out great. I’ve seen your work. Met you and your son at the Chrysler nationals 2017.
Thanks

I bought the car in 1988 from Norm Ver Hage in Michigan. He bought it with some existing "damage" caused by an irate wife whose husband had wronged her somehow!!! She took her revenge out on his Cuda!!!!

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Jim that car still looked great the last time I saw it, but then again I know your standards.
 
Jim that car still looked great the last time I saw it, but then again I know your standards.
It had been painted in lacquer in the late '70's and as the years went buy, it has deteriorated and now shows many cracks.
 
On to the next project!!! It is another '69 Cuda, 340, auto, Formula S, heavily optioned. It needs a total restoration. Plan is to take it back to factory original (no Hemi this time!!) Last week my son and I pulled the engine and tranny at his place and this week we moved it to my garage. The winter project is to strip it completely and get it ready for blasting (plastic media) in the spring, followed by body work and paint. The passenger floor needs to be replaced and there is bondo on the lower rear quarters and a few other places.

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Nice car Jim
 
Almost lost the car several years ago at Carlisle. Had the car parked at a hotel in Mechanicsburg. It was out front, under the lights , right beside the highway. Came out in the morning and found pass window smashed and the ignition lock assembly lying on the floor. They probably had another keyed lock set to plug into the harness to start it. Fortunately I had it rigged so it would not start in park - otherwise it would have been gone!! A couple of other cars stolen the same weekend. Ever since then, I've taken extra precautions to make sure it cannot be started.

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Making some revisions to the main positive and negative power connections on the SRT8CUDA. On the FAST XFI 2.0 User Support Facebook page, I've seen several posts about problems that have been traced to poor wiring installations - especially concerning grounds. I e-mailed David Page (Fast Technical support) to get his perspective on my wiring and he said that I definitely should make some modifications. In particular, he did not like the fact that I was using the chassis for my main ground path - and- also that I did not have the ground wires from the XFI and XIM boxes going directly to the negative battery terminal. This is what he had to say:
Our recommendation is based on practices that have consistently resulted in noise and interference free operation. ALL ground wires from the XFI or XIM MUST GO DIRECTLY ON THE BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL.
I also strongly recommend that you run a negative cable from the engine block to the battery negative terminal equal to the size of your positive battery cable. This will minimize the current spike and voltage drop while cranking the engine. Using the body or frame to carry this ground is a bad idea as they are subject to change conductivity with age, temperature, and degradation due to oxidation and corrosion. In other words, just because it works fine now does not guarantee that problems will not arise in the future.

So based on what you are indication, I would strongly recommend moving the XFI and XIM ground wires directly to the battery negative terminal and installing a ground cable from the battery to the engine block.

The first photo shows how it is currently wired and the 2nd shows the proposed new wiring.
Initial power and ground wiring diagram.jpg
Revised power and ground wiring diagram.jpg
 
Making some revisions to the main positive and negative power connections on the SRT8CUDA. On the FAST XFI 2.0 User Support Facebook page, I've seen several posts about problems that have been traced to poor wiring installations - especially concerning grounds. I e-mailed David Page (Fast Technical support) to get his perspective on my wiring and he said that I definitely should make some modifications. In particular, he did not like the fact that I was using the chassis for my main ground path - and- also that I did not have the ground wires from the XFI and XIM boxes going directly to the negative battery terminal. This is what he had to say:
Our recommendation is based on practices that have consistently resulted in noise and interference free operation. ALL ground wires from the XFI or XIM MUST GO DIRECTLY ON THE BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL.
I also strongly recommend that you run a negative cable from the engine block to the battery negative terminal equal to the size of your positive battery cable. This will minimize the current spike and voltage drop while cranking the engine. Using the body or frame to carry this ground is a bad idea as they are subject to change conductivity with age, temperature, and degradation due to oxidation and corrosion. In other words, just because it works fine now does not guarantee that problems will not arise in the future.

So based on what you are indication, I would strongly recommend moving the XFI and XIM ground wires directly to the battery negative terminal and installing a ground cable from the battery to the engine block.

The first photo shows how it is currently wired and the 2nd shows the proposed new wiring.
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Thanks for posting this. I did this with the OEM PCU after a couple of years driving it. I had it ground like this first picture pretty much. Then started having some issues. And grounded everything.
 
Making some revisions to the main positive and negative power connections on the SRT8CUDA. On the FAST XFI 2.0 User Support Facebook page, I've seen several posts about problems that have been traced to poor wiring installations - especially concerning grounds. I e-mailed David Page (Fast Technical support) to get his perspective on my wiring and he said that I definitely should make some modifications. In particular, he did not like the fact that I was using the chassis for my main ground path - and- also that I did not have the ground wires from the XFI and XIM boxes going directly to the negative battery terminal. This is what he had to say:
Our recommendation is based on practices that have consistently resulted in noise and interference free operation. ALL ground wires from the XFI or XIM MUST GO DIRECTLY ON THE BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL.
I also strongly recommend that you run a negative cable from the engine block to the battery negative terminal equal to the size of your positive battery cable. This will minimize the current spike and voltage drop while cranking the engine. Using the body or frame to carry this ground is a bad idea as they are subject to change conductivity with age, temperature, and degradation due to oxidation and corrosion. In other words, just because it works fine now does not guarantee that problems will not arise in the future.

So based on what you are indication, I would strongly recommend moving the XFI and XIM ground wires directly to the battery negative terminal and installing a ground cable from the battery to the engine block.

The first photo shows how it is currently wired and the 2nd shows the proposed new wiring.
View attachment 1715336839 View attachment 1715336840
Thank you Jim
 
I had installed a repro tachometer # CS162 from Charger Specialties in the dash, but it was erratic when connected to the FAST tach output. I found a original factory tach (for 25USD!!!) and had Redline install modern guts in it. Pulled the dash part way out on the weekend and installed it. Works great!!! I had to pull the steering wheel and drop the column to get working room. Also installed a new connector on the headlight switch. After reinstalling I checked all lights etc and all worked. But decided to do a run to make sure everything was fine before heading to Carlisle on Thursday. Tried the AC and no fan!! oops. Dash back out today (didnt have to move the column this time) and connector had pulled off the back of the AC pushbutton module. Back together and all is fine!!! Also made sure to check the wipers because they are calling for rain on the trip from Ontario on THursday!!!!
First photo is the repro tach and the second is the factory tach.
Jim
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