Mopar electronic distributor

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tooslow

tooslow

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i am building a mild 383 6 pack car , hyd cam , 9 to 1 CR, A get in and go
Question:
Is the chrysler electronic ignition w the module and resistor any good?
I usually go MSD but the chrysler set up is very reasonable
Looking to keep money in the piggy bank If i can
A body Cuda
thx
 
The GM unit is more powerful because it doesn't cut the current down with a ballast resistor and is very reliable. I also like it because I don't have to mount anything to my firewall and the wiring is a lot easier.

The wiring instructions come with the kit, but essentially is 2 wires from the distributor to one side of the module and the other 2 wires to the + and - sides of the coil.
 
You can now get the "ready to run" distributor for your BB. Previously, they had them only for SB & RB engines. It does cost ~$80 vs the $45 for SB version, but still cheaper than what you are probably looking at. Simple hookup, HEI module, toss the ballast, more spark. Many posts if you search.
 
All of your grandparents drove these cars with the factory system, for hundreds of thousands of miles....My daily driver truck has the SAME ignition box AND BALLAST RESISTOR it was built with in 76, like 300,00 plus miles, so do what you want, plus, if for some reason it does fail, EVERY parts store in the usa has parts on the shelf to fix it in 10 minutes..I also run a automotive shop, and I can tell ya, them GM modules fail all the time
 
Every part for the HEI conversion kits I build are readily available also.
www.classichei.com 99.99 shipped for Abody members.

The original equipment was ok, but the HEI is rock solid reliable and I have sold many of my kits here on FABO. (So I have references):D

This is one of my kits, and it uses your existing distributor.
 

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TrailBeast said:
Every part for the HEI conversion kits I build are readily available also.
www.classichei.com 99.99 shipped for Abody members.

The original equipment was ok, but the HEI is rock solid reliable and I have sold many of my kits here on FABO. (So I have references):D

This is one of my kits, and it uses your existing distributor.
Click to expand...

No offense, but that looks hideous. There's no way I'd put that under my hood. But I guess as long as it functions properly, that's all that matters.
 
mopowers said:
No offense, but that looks hideous. There's no way I'd put that under my hood. But I guess as long as it functions properly, that's all that matters.
Click to expand...

Hm, ok

All this and it's associated wiring scattered all over the engine and fender isn't.
 

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I am with TrailBeast. I think some of the factory designs were a hodge-podge of scattered electronic parts and cluttered wiring. In both my A's, I moved the coil off the engine and replaced the factory relays (starter, horn) with a neat relay center that adds fuses and relays. My firewall is pretty clean now. By 1975, Dart engines were covered with vacuum emissions stuff so that one can barely get their hands in to work on it. The 80's got even worse. MPFI and distributorless ignition by the late 90's reversed that and cleaned things up a lot. Most street rods today go for a similar clean look.
 
OK, I've been carrying a spare Orange Box and ballast resistor in each of my MOPARs for years. Never needed 'em! (so far!)
An earlier post here said the GM modules fail "all the time". Somewhere I read that there are cheap GM modules and more expensive ones that are higher quality.
The same is true of MOPAR ECUs, I'm told.
My question is if I have an ignition failure at four AM in a driving cold rain how wet will I get changing out a GM module (assuming, of course, I have one)
I can swap out the orange box and ballast in under ten minutes.

ATB

BC
 
64ragtop said:
how wet will I get changing out a GM module (assuming, of course, I have one)
I can swap out the orange box and ballast in under ten minutes.
Click to expand...
About the same time, and I carry an umbrella so wouldn't get wet at all. I use the 8-pin HEI module on my Valiant. 2 mounting screws to the heat sink, two Weather-pack connectors and one 2-pin connnector. You don't need to unscrew the connectors like the Mopar one, so about the same time. The HEI module is 4x smaller so takes less space in the glove compartment. I also don't have to worry about a broken ballast resistor (common failure).
 
replicaracer43 said:
All of your grandparents drove these cars with the factory system, for hundreds of thousands of miles....My daily driver truck has the SAME ignition box AND BALLAST RESISTOR it was built with in 76, like 300,00 plus miles, so do what you want, plus, if for some reason it does fail, EVERY parts store in the usa has parts on the shelf to fix it in 10 minutes..I also run a automotive shop, and I can tell ya, them GM modules fail all the time
Click to expand...

they also used bias ply tires,drum brakes,points,am radio...etc.


but i'll take a radial tire, disc brakes, electronic ign and a fm,cd,aux imput radio in my car every day of the week..


according to your logic we may as well still be using a horse and carriage.
 
64ragtop said:
if I have an ignition failure at four AM in a driving cold rain how wet will I get changing out a GM module
Click to expand...

About 1 minute:

Built this up to test fire some engines, but also as a complete, working spare ignition, minus, of course, the dist. Hook green to ground, yellow to 12V, the coil wire and dist. connector.

hwlcfa.jpg


34nf6l0.jpg
 
Before you spent any time changing it you would be trying to figure out if it's the ballast resistor or the box. :)

There is no ballast resistor in the HEI systems.

I totally understand your point though.
Some people dislike a huge red box with a bunch of wires running to it also.
 
TrailBeast said:
Hm, ok

All this and it's associated wiring scattered all over the engine and fender isn't.
Click to expand...

TrailBeast
Could you please post some pictures under the hood of your car with HEI system? I have ProComp with PC91 E-Coil and wish to have similar set up as HEI system.
Thanks,
 
mopowers said:
No offense, but that looks hideous. There's no way I'd put that under my hood. But I guess as long as it functions properly, that's all that matters.
Click to expand...

You took the words right out of my mouth.
I don't buy the GM ignition snake oil BS. The Chrysler electronic ignition
is one of the best systems ever designed.Period.
To the original poster,get yourself the Mopar Performance kit,and pop it in.
You will be good for years to come.
 
1973_Scamp said:
TrailBeast
Could you please post some pictures under the hood of your car with HEI system? I have ProComp with PC91 E-Coil and wish to have similar set up as HEI system.
Thanks,
Click to expand...

The picture I posted above is one installed in my car.
Or do you mean different pictures?

The "snake oil" comment cracked me up. :)
I guess better starting, better fuel economy, more power, and a smoother idle is scary superstition?
That's funny.:D
 
TrailBeast said:
The picture I posted above is one installed in my car.
Or do you mean different pictures?

The "snake oil" comment cracked me up. :)
I guess better starting, better fuel economy, more power, and a smoother idle is scary superstition?
That's funny.:D
Click to expand...

Starts better...My cars start just fine.
Better fuel economy...Ehh,I build muscle cars,not Prius's.
More power...When do you want to line them up ?
Smoother idle....Prove it.
Plus my engine bay don't look like azz,with GM parts.
GM....Now that's funny.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Starts better...My cars start just fine.
Better fuel economy...Ehh,I build muscle cars,not Prius's.
More power...When do you want to line them up ?
Smoother idle....Prove it.
Plus my engine bay don't look like azz,with GM parts.
GM....Now that's funny.
Click to expand...


It makes no difference to me at all what you choose to run on your car, or what you think of what I run on mine.
What is this supposed to be, a competition of oppinion?

I don't play.
 
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